Tag Archives: chain

Work Into a Foundation Chain

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It is not often considered, how many ways can I work into a foundation chain? The answer can be a bit surprising as it is six.

Typically when you start a crochet project, it doesn’t really matter how you work into the chain. As long as you are consistent and work into the chain the same way every stitch, everything is fine. However the chain has a unique structure and how you work into it can give you a little different result.

The Foundation Chain…the beginning of all crochet projects.

There are 3 parts to every chain. Often these are referred to as the top loop, the bottom loop, and the back bump. This is referenced by looking down at the chain seeing a “V” that looks like the top of a completed row of crochet.

Yet it may make more sense to think of the chain as the top of a crochet row. In which case the “top most loop” would be the back loop. The “bottom most loop” would be the front loop. While the Back Bump would be where the post of the crochet stitches would be located.

The most common ways to start a chain utilize inserting the hook into 1 or 2 loops. Inserting the hook under just 1 loop can be a really good option if you crochet tightly.  Working in either to top/back loop, the back bump, or the bottom/front loop allow for the yarn from the remaining 2 loops to be pulled up. This gives a bit more flexibility in your fabric.

Working in 1 loop of the foundation chain

One of the most commonly used, inserting the hook under the top/back loop. This is a great way for tight crocheters to begin their work.
Working in the bottom/front loop is probably the least used. You need to rotate the chain so that the back bump is facing upward and insert the hook under the now top most loop. Rotating the cahin creates a different effect.
Working in the Back Bump…with the “v” of the chain facing downward, insert the hook under the bump of the chain. This can look like a raised vertebrae of a dinosaur. It offers the neatest finish on the bottom edge of the crochet fabric.

An additional consideration for working only in the back bump is that the bottom of the stitch fabric will resemble the top of the crochet stitches. This can be a very nice finishing trick.

If you happen to be a loose crocheter using only 1 loop can cause there to be a wide gap between the bottom of the crochet stitch and the unused 2 loops of the chain. It might feel a bit flimsy.

Working into 2 lops of the foundation chain

Working through the top/back loop and back bump is the most common approach for working in 2 loops of the foundation chain.
A bit uncommon, but rotating the chain so the the back bump is facing, you can insert your hook under the back bump and the bottom/front loop (the rotation of the chain will place them at the top of the chain)
Working under the top/back and bottom/front loops of the chain is probably the tightest and most sturdy method to work into a chain as it has the least amount of opportunity to stretch out of shape and create gapping

The methods of working in 2 loops, be it the top/back loop & back bump, or the top/back & bottom/front loop, or the bottom/front loop and back bump results in less flexibility. This may be a bit more stable, but if you are a tight crocheter this might be a little difficult to work. For a loose crocheter this approach may offer the least amount of “gapping”.

In the large scheme of things, each of these approaches offer just a little subtle difference. So, play with it and see what you may like.

Scrap Use Free Pattern

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I just completed the Craftvent CAL from Jimmy Beans Wool (if you missed it, but want to work up the pattern, find details here). When I was done, I had several little yarn ball left overs, so I had to find something to do with them.

Yes, I am one of those crocheters, the type that does not like to waste any yarn. This means that I have options for scrap projects. With these left over bits, from the “Sugar Plum” colors of the project already go really well together, so visually anything will look pretty good.

I started out thinking I would make a little draw string bag, but as I got into the project I realized that I had enough yarn to actually make a hat, and a hat is going to get a bit more wear in my household.

I have shared this scrap pattern below, and the notation of how you can turn this into a drawstring bag.

Please note that I do not have any length of the yarn used noted, as really it is just scraps. You could put any colors together anyway you want.

I used an H/8/5.00mm hook and light weight yarns (for a listing of the yarns in the projects, they are the same as the yarns in the Craftvent Quest Shawl, listed here). To help you hat fit perfectly, I share information here.

Scrap Hat

Rnd 1: Ch 4, 11 dc in 4th ch from hook, sl st to join to beg ch.

Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] rep around, sl st to join.

Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in each of the next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] rep around, sl st to join.

Rnd 5: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in each of the next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] rep around, sl st to join.

Rnd 6: Change color, ch 1, 2 sc in back loops of same st, sc in back loops of next 4 sts, [2 sc in back loops of next st, sc in back loops of next 4 sts] rep around, sl st to join.

Rnd 7: Change color, ch 1, 2 sc in back loops of same st, sc in back loops of next 5 sts, [2 sc in back loops of next st, sc in back loops of next 5 sts] rep around, sl st to join.

Rnd 8: Change color, ch 3, dc in back loop of same st, dc in back loop of next 6 sts, [2 dc in back loop of next dc, dc in back loop of next 6 sts] rep around, sl st to join.

Rnd 9: Change color, ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 10: Change color, ch 1, sc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 11: Change color, ch 3, dc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 12: Change color, ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 13: Ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 14: Ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 15: Change color, ch 1, sc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 16: Change color, ch 1, sc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 17: Change color, ch 3, dc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 18: Change color, ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 19: Change color, ch 1, sc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 20: Change color, ch 3, dc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 21: Change color, ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 22: Change color, ch 1, sc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 23: Change color, ch 1 sc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Simple Bag

Work as for Hat in Rnds 1-19.

Rnd 20: Change color, ch 4, sk next dc, dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1, [dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1] around, sl st to join.

Rnd 21: Change color, ch 3, dc in each st and ch-sp around, sl st to join.

Rnd 22: Change color, ch 1, sc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 23: Change color, ch 1 sc in back loop of each st around, sl st to join. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Drawstring

Create a chain about 50” long, turn and sl st in each ch across, fasten off.

Weave drawstring through the ch-sps of Rnd 20, then weave ends around to opposite side, ensuring that the tie is wrapped around the bag twice. Tie ends of drawstring together, and pull pull closed.

 

 

Adding Some Height with Extended Stitches

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When I am teaching I find that if my students make a mistake, it is because they are attempting something more advanced than they had learned. One such “more advanced stitch” is working Extended Stitches.

Extended stitches are a great way to make more gentle curves, or even help make gauge, and they are pretty easy to create. The technique of extending can be used with any crochet stitch, and only adds one additional step.

To create the stitch you start whichever stitch you are work, just as you always do. Meaning if you are creating a single crochet, insert you hook in the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull through; if you are creating double crochet, yarn over then insert in you hook in the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull through. The extension happens right after the “yarn over and pull through”, this is the point in a stitch that I refer to as “anchoring” as it secures the stitch being created to fabric being created.

After “anchoring the stitch” you yarn over and pull through a loop, essentially creating a chain. Then you complete the stitch as usual. This little added chain gives a little extra height to the stitch, however it does not make it as tall as the next typical stitch in crochet. This helps create a gentler curve in a gradual stitch taper.

There is only a slight difference in the appearance of these extended stitches, and that is a little extra “v” at the base of the stitch post.

Steps for working typical crochet stitches, note: all photo examples are worked to the left of the typical version of the stitch for comparison:

Extended Single Crochet (esc):

Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over pull through a loop to anchor, chain one, yarn over and pull through 2 loops.

Extended Half Double Crochet (ehdc):

Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over pull through a loop to anchor, chain one, yarn over and pull through 3 loops.

Extended Double Crochet (edc):

Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull through a loop to anchor, chain one, yarn over pull through 2 loops, yarn over pull through 2 loops.

Yes, Swatches Lie…Well Maybe….

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Yes, swatches lie. Well that is a bit harsh…really they can be a bit misleading.

To start with there is the famous question, “Do I need to make a swatch?” Well only if you want to ensure that you meet the gauge of the pattern. Gauge helps to ensure that the pattern comes out the same size, but it also ensures that your fabric has the same drape as that of the original design. If this is important to you, then yes, you need to swatch.

That being said there are some road blocks that stop many people from making a swatch.

First there is no actual directions for making a swatch, the gauge lists the number of stitches and rows that fit the given measurements, but that is where the information ends. If you are a new crocheter this can be a bit difficult to decipher, as you need to read and understand your pattern and then make assumptions from this.

One of the ways to make these assumptions is simply to make a chain longer than the given measurement for the gauge. By a rule of thumb add make the swatch at least 40% bigger than is measured, so if it states 4” (10cm), make a swatch of 5 ½” (14 cm). This is so you can take the measurement from of the stitches and rows without using the edges of the swatch, as the edges can distort the measurement.

If the gauge gives a stitch pattern, work this in rows until the rows measure larger than the given measurement. However this is only step one.

The next step to ensure you are getting an accurate measurement is to block your swatch. Essentially you want to treat your wash as you would the finished item, so if it is hand washed then hand wash, if it is machine wash then machine wash, and let dry.

Now you can take the measurement and to ensure that you meet gauge, to proceed with your pattern. If you need to adjust your hook size to obtain gauge you will need to repeat the process in a new hook size and repeat.

However here is the honesty, very few of us go through these steps. I know when I get my yarn I want to dive right in and get to creating, but sometimes I do have to pay the price for this. I may need to rip back and rework if things are not coming out as expected.

So how can I find a happy medium between creating a swatch and just enjoying my crochet? My tip is to check my work regularly. I may block an item before I head to bed, after a day of stitching, and check my gauge in the morning. If it is on course I feel free to continue onward, if it is a bit off it is a day to rip back and begin anew. This may be a bit of a gamble in losing a day’s worth of work, but it keeps me enjoying my stitching while still being happy with the outcome.

Cutting Crochet- It is Possible

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I have been quite a few questions lately about how to cut crochet. Granted it is not a simple process, but it is a skill you can acquire, with some simple understanding about your fabric.

First what do you want to cut your fabric? Maybe the beginning chain is way too tight in comparison with the rest of the fabric, and you would love it fixed. Maybe you made the something the wrong size, an afghan you made to wide, a sweater you made too long. The reasons can be vast.

To begin with cutting crochet fabric is unique and different almost every time you do it. The approaches to cutting across rows for fabric (horizontally) and cutting through stitches (vertically) might be similar, but horizontally is a bit easier. So let’s start there.

Before cutting through a row of stitches you want to run a thread through the bases or “feet” or the stitches that are being worked into the row to be cut. This thread will help prevent the fabric from unraveling.

Once the thread is in place, cut the row off. Now remove all the excess yarn bits. You should have crochet stitches that are now worked on a thread. It is relatively simple to finish this fabric off by a new fabric to the base of the stitches on the thread and crochet into the “bottoms” of each stitch. Once all the stitches are worked into, you can remove the thread.

To cut vertically in the fabric, the approach is similar to run a thread through the stitches adjacent to those being cut, but it can be more difficult to ensure that each loop that encompass a stitch is secure in this process, so I add an extra stitch. After running a thread through the stitches, you can cut the fabric (note, if you want to save both sides of the fabric from the cut you will need to run a thread on either side of the cut to ensure that neither piece of fabric unravels).

Once the fabric is cut, gently remove the excess yarn form the fabric at the cut, being careful to watch each row and ensure that no yarn is unraveling past your thread. If it is, as you have missed a loop, place a removable stitch marker in the “uncaught” loop. This removable stitch marker can be as simple as a paper clip. After removing the excess yarn and determining unsecured loops on the edge you will need to join with yarn and crochet over the edge, making sure to incorporate the unsecured loops into the new stitches you are creating. This will assist in preventing them from unraveling. After you have successfully crocheted the edge you can remove the thread. You may find that the edge still looks a bit shaggy, so you may have to weave in assorted ends throughout the edge to ensure a tidy finish.

Like I said it is not a project for the faint of heart, but it can be done. If you want to progress in further in cutting your crochet fabrics, I would suggest checking out teh work by Vashti Braha of Designing Vashti….she went down the rabbit hole with Self Healing Stitches and such….find them here. Why Self Healing Stitches, Self Healing Stitches Resources,