Add Fingers to Fingerless Gloves

I see a lot of fingerless glove patterns, however not a lot of actual gloves. I have had some people tell me that they think that gloves are just too hard, well to this I disagree.

Making a Fingerless Glove

Turning any fingerless glove into an actual full fledged glove, is actually not that difficult. Begin with the basic fingerless glove, and if you want to create your own custom fit, check out more information here.

Mark your fingers

Once you have your fingerless glove made, the next set is to put it one. Take 3 removable stitch markers (or safety pins), insert them between your fingers through both the front and back of the glove fabric.

Insert stitch markers of safety pins between the fingers.

Join yarn anywhere along the finger edge of the fabric. If you were working a pattern that was stitched wrist to fingers, you can simply keep working the yarn from the last round without finishing off.

Start crocheting the “separations”

Work stitches, I recommend single crochet, evenly along edge. Work a slip stitch to the adjacent stitch (the one on the fabric on the other side of the hand) whenever you come to a stitch marker. This will create the “separation” between the fingers. I even just work this technique when I am still just creating fingerless gloves. I feel like it helps them stay in place and not twist around my hand.

When working the single crochets, slip stitch across the fabric on the opposite side of the glove to create the finger “separations”.

Spiral your fingers

When you begin to work on the opposite side of the hand, and come to a slip stitch, work a single crochet in the one leg of the slip stitch that is closest to the last single crochet worked. Single crochet in a spiral by working on the fabric side previously worked, and work a tube the length of your finger.

Finish off your yarn, and join to fabric right next to the finger just made. Make the next finger working a stitch in the “one leg” of the slip stitch, of each side of the finger, and continue with the spiral method until the length meets your need. Repeat this of the remaining two fingers.

Work a single crochet in “one leg” of the slip stitch.

Make a thumb

Work the thumb in the same manner, joining to the edge of the thumbing opening and crocheting around it. However this opening may be much larger than the end of your thumb. Work two single crochet together (sc2tog) once in the first and second round. Then continue until the desired length is reached.

Work the spirals until each finger is the desired length.

Cinch them closed

Prepare to weave in the ends. Thread the tails at the ends of the fingers through the stitches in the last round of each finger and pull tight to cinch closed.

Glove

I do recommend that working fingers, it is best to use thinner weight yarn, nothing above a sport weigh (number 3). I usually work most of my gloves, and even fingerless gloves out of wool blended yarns that are either a fine or medium weigh (number 2 or 3). This is because anything heavier just becomes too bulky and feel clumsy on my hands. The nice thing about gloves is that you can complete a pair with only one hank of yarn, and feel really accomplished in your skills.

Making Fingerless Gloves

Have a little yarn? Needing a quick gift? Want to get ready for cold weather? Crochet Fingerless gloves are the prefect answer.

I have created a few patterns for fingerless, and even fingered gloves over the years, but you can create your own custom fit pair pretty easily. All you need to do is create a rectangle.

That seems almost a little too simple, but this version of fingerless gloves really are that simple.

Want to follow a pattern instead, here are some of my glove patterns:

Types of Gloves

There are essentially two different approaches to creating gloves. One is to work in the round, making a tube. This approach needs a little more attention to detail, as the tube needs to adjust in size a bit to feel like a nice fit. When working from the cuff to palm there needs to be an increase a couple of rounds before the thumb and then create a loop for the thumb, while decrease a couple of stitches to help the gloves fit the fingers.

However if you work a rectangle in the length you want your gloves and continue until the width can wrap around your hand, then you can make a glove.

Pin the fabric on either side the thumb and seam the fabric together on either side.

Make your Gloves

This rectangle can be created in any stitch pattern, so you have complete creative control. If you want a bit of extra stretch I would recommend working a fabric of back loop single crochet. It offers a ribbing like effect and allows for a comfortable fit.

Then the beginning row is folded over to the last row. I place my hand in this fold and use stitch markers to mark either side of my thumb, essentially marking the opening for my thumb. Then it is as simple as seaming the edges together with the exception of the thumb opening.

It really is that simple.

I have found to step these gloves up a bit more, I find a yarn that has a great color change, or nice texture. This makes the rectangle that can really be something that is fabulous.

1 For Me, 1 For You- Linked Crochet Block

Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America, by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with you, I just ask that make one for donation.

Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through the United States.

Linked Crochet Block

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

Linked Crochet Stitches

Linked stitches create a row without open spaces between the stitches, the stitches stand together and are interlinked with one another. It creates a distinctive line across the right side of the row and a uniquely textured wrong side of the row. This is a create way to create a solid fabric even with tall stitches.

If you have experience with Tunisian crochet you may see some similarities. As with Tunisian Simple Stitch, you insert the hook and pull up a loop, and then work them back off to one loop.

Gauge: 7”x 9” rectangle

Materials

  • Medium weight yarn in 4 fours (A), (B), (C), and (D)
  • K/10 1/2 /6.5 mm crochet hook

Block

Row 1: With A, ch 30, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, change to B, turn. -29sc

Linked Half Double Crochet

Linked Half Double Crochet (lhdc): Insert hook in yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

(Linked Half Double crochet) Insert hook into yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo, pull up a loop
(Linked Half Double Crochet) Insert hook into the next stitch, yo, pull up a loop
Yo, pull through 3 loops. Linked Half Double Crochet completed

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout), hdc in same st, lhdc in each st across, turn. -28 lhdc, 1hdc

Rows 3 & 4: Rep Row 2, changing to color A at the end of row 4.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, change to C, turn. -29 sc

Linked Double Crochet

Linking to the Turning Chain

Beginning Linked Double Crochet (Bldc): Insert hook in 2nd chain from hook (of the turning chain), yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through last 2 loops.

Beginning Chain 3
(Beginning Linked Double Crochet) Insert hook into the 2nd chain of the beginning turning chain, yo, pull up a loop.
(Beginning Linked Double Crochet) Insert hook in next stitch, yo, pull up a loop.

The Traditional Linked Double Crochet

Linked Double Crochet (ldc): Insert hook in yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through the last 2 loops.

(Linked Double Crochet) Insert hook into yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch
(Linked Double Crochet)Insert hook in yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo, pull up a loop
(Linked Double Crochet) Insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop
(Linked Double Crochet) Yo, pull through 2 loops on the hook
(Linked Double Crochet) Yarn over pull through last 2 loops on hook, Stitch complete.

Row 6: Ch 3, Bldc, ldc in each st across, turn. -28 ldc, 1Bldc

Rows 7 & 8: Rep Row 6, changing to color A at the end of Row 8.

Row 9: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, change to C, turn. -29 sc

Linked Treble Crochet

Linking to the Turning Chain

Beginning Linked Treble Crochet (Bltr): Insert hook in 2nd chain from hook (of the turning chain), yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into 4th chain from hook, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through last 2 loops.

(Beginning Linked Treble Crochet) Insert hook in 2nd chain from hook, yo, pull up a loop
(Beginning Linked Treble Crochet) Insert hook in 4th chain from hook, yo, pull up a loop.
(Beginning Linked Treble Crochet) Insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop
(Beginning Linked Treble Crochet) Yarn over pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 2 loops.

The Traditional Linked Treble Stitch

Linked Treble Crochet (ltr): Insert hook in top yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in bottom yarn over wrap of the adjacent stitch, yo pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 2 loops, pull through the last 2 loops.

(Linked Treble Crochet) Insert hook in top yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in bottom yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo pull up a loop
(Linked Treble Crochet) Insert hook in the next stitch, yo, pull up a loop
(Linked Treble Crochet) Yarn over pull through 2 loops
(Linked Treble Crochet) Yarn over, pull through 2 more loops on hook
(Linked Treble Crochet) Yarn over, pull through last 2 loop. Stitch completed.

Row 10: Ch 4, Bltr, ltr in each st across, turn. -28 ltr, 1Bltr

Rows 11 & 12: Rep Row 6, changing to color A at the end of Row 8.

Row 13: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, fasten off. -29 sc

Weave in ends, block.

Short Rows in Crochet

To help you celebrate National Crochet Month, I am sharing a technique to help advance your crochet skills, and including a free pattern. Today I am sharing how to work Short Rows, in both traditional and Tunisian Crochet.

First, I would like to thank Crochetville for including me in they blog tour for this month long celebration. Everyday you are introduced to a new designer, or hobbyist or teacher, to help inspire a new desire of crochet within you. Don’t miss a day, check out the participants here.

There are some terms that can be a bit intimidating the fiber arts, short rows can be one of them. However, they really are quite straight forward.

What Makes it Special

Learning how to work short rows in crochet will help expand crochet skills by adding subtle shaping in garments and the ability to create dramatic effects in just about any work you wish.

A short row is exactly as it sounds, you work your row short. Meaning you do not finish the row.

Sometimes this is worked by tapering the stitch height, by working shorter and shorter stitches until they are near a slip stitch. The work is turned, and possibly started by tapering the stich height upward, it is completed.

Working As A Dart

In the case of using short rows as is seen in sewing as if a dart, or a point in fabric, you work un-worked stitches. The next row works to the point where two rows below the row was worked short, then it continues to the remained of the stitches not worked three rows below.

Making A Wedge…

In the case of making a triangular shape, a multiple of short rows are worked, so that there are fewer stiches in each row. I often use this approach in creating shawls, essentially creating triangular wedges that I then build atop one another.

It is this last approach that I also use to create washcloths and potholders. I create “wedges” of triangles that work on one another to eventually create a circle.

Starting Your Circle

Using any yarn, with a comparable size hook, these patterns are great for scrap yarns. You can adjust the size by adjusting the number of beginning chains as the foundation. Just remember that this is only half the size of the finished product, and you will remove one stitch per row on the same edge of the fabric. It can be used utilizing either traditional crochet or Tunisian, and I share a quick pattern for both below.

Short Row Washcloth/Potholder

Short Row Crochet Washcloth/Potholder- Worked in Wedges

First Wedge

Row 1: Ch 16, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -15 sc

Row 2: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -14 sc

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 12 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -13sc

Row 4: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -12 sc

You Should Start Seeing the “Stair Stepping”

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 10 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -11sc

Row 6: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -10 sc

Don’t work the last stitch, and slip stitch in the first stitch of the next row…removing one stitch in each row on the same edge of the fabric.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 8 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -9sc

Row 8: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -8 sc

Over Halfway on the First Wedge….

Row 9: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 6 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -7sc

Row 10: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -6 sc

Row 11: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 4 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -5sc

Row 12: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc

Almost There…

Row 13: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -3sc

Row 14: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -2 sc

Row 15: Ch 1, sc in same st, turn. -1 sc

Row 16: Sl st in same st, turn.

Second Wedge

Row 17: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in the edge stitch of Rows 15-1 (essentially either the stitch skipped in a row, or the slip stitch after the row is turned), turn. -15 sc

Row 18-32: Rep Rows 2 through 16 of wedge 1.

Wedges 3-8

Repeat Second Wedge.

Seam Wedge 1 to Wedge 8.

Tunisian Short Row Washcloth/Potholder

Short Row Tunisian Crochet Washcloth/Potholder

These same principals apply to Tunisian crochet as well.

First Wedge

Row 1: Ch 15, pick up loops in each ch across. RP. -15 sts

Row 2: Tss in next 13 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -14 tss

Row 3: Tss in next 12 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -13 tss

Row 4: Tss in next 11 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -12 tss

Still not working the last stitch…

Row 5: Tss in next 10 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -11 tss

Row 6: Tss in next 9 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -10 tss

Don’t work the last stitch of each row of Tunisian crochet, then begin the regular Return Pass. Thus removing 1 stitch from each row on the same edge of the fabric.

Row 7: Tss in next 8 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -9 tss

Row 8: Tss in next 7 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -8 tss

Are you seeing the angle?

Row 9: Tss in next 6 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -7 tss

Row 10: Tss in next 5 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -6 tss

Row 11: Tss in next 4 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -5 tss

Row 12: Tss in next 3 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -4 tss

Almost finished the first wedge…

Row 13: Tss in next 2 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -3 tss

Row 14: Tss in next 1 st, leaving last st unworked. RP. -2 tss

Row 15: Tss in same st, leaving last st unworked. RP. -1 tss

Second Wedge

Row 16: Pick up loops in each unworked stitch of rows below. RP.-15tss

Row 17-30: Rep Rows 2-15 of wedge 1.

Wedges 3-8

Repeat Second Wedge.

Seam Wedge 1 to Wedge 8.

1 For Me, 1 For You- Quick Weave Block

Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America, by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with you, I just ask that make one for donation.

Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through the United States.

Quick Weave Block

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

The Basket Weave Stitch

Utilizing stitch placement is all that makes this pattern appear. It is essentially only a double crochet stitch, however it is worked around the body or post of the stitch a row below. There are two different stitches, the back post and the front post.

Post stitches can be worked with any stitch type, and I describe below how to work the location. Check out more information about stitch locations here.

Back Post Locations

The back post pushes the post away from the fabric facing. This is done by inserting the hook from the back side of the fabric to the front, between the “post” or “body” of the next stitch to be worked. Then push the hook from the front to the back of the fabric on the other side of the “post” or “body”. I have found this easier to view by shifting the fabric a bit and looking down at the top of the stitches, as I can see the body being pushed backward.

Insert the Hook from the back of the fabric
Push the hook to the back again. This image is looking down from the top of the fabric, note how the post is pushed to the back of the fabric.

Front Post Location

The front post is often easier to work, and pushes the post toward the front of the fabric. This is done by inserting the hook from the front to the back of the fabric between the “post” or “body” of the next stitch to be worked. Then re-insert the back of the fabric to the front of the fabric on the other side of the “post” or “body”.

Hook location for the Front post

Gauge: 7”x9” rectangle

Materials

Medium weight yarn, in 3 colors MC (main color), CC1, CC2

K/10 ½/ 6.5mm hook

Notes

Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc): Yo, insert hook from back to front and then to back again around post of stitch, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice.

Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Yo, insert hook from front to back and then to front again around post of stitch, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice.

Since this Block uses three colors, instead of cutting the yarn, carry it along the side of the Block. If you need tips on this check it out here.

Front post double crochets are easily seen, the back post double crochets show a stripe of color in the row below and look like it is behind the row below.

Block Pattern

With MC Ch 22

Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch across, change to CC1, turn. – 20 dc

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [fpdc in next 3 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC2, turn. – 2 dc,  9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [bpdc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to MC, turn. – 2 dc,  9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

The Beginning of the Repeat

Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [fpdc in next 3 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC1, turn. – 2 dc,  9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [bpdc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC2, turn. – 2 dc,  9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Row 6: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [fpdc in next 3 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to MC, turn. – 2 dc,  9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [bpdc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC1, turn. – 2 dc,  9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Row 8: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [fpdc in next 3 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC2, turn. – 2 dc,  9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Row 9: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [bpdc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to MC, turn. – 2 dc,  9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Just Finished the Pattern Repeat

Rows 10-16: Rep Rows 4-9 once.

Edge

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in sc in same st, sc in each st across until 1 st remains, 3 sc in last st, working over row ends evenly sc across to beg ch, 3 sc in last st, working in unused loops of beg ch, sc in each chain across, 3 sc in last st, working over row end evenly sc across, 2 sc in last st, sl st to beg sc, fasten off.

Weave in ends, block. (see tips here)