Granny Squares never really go out of fashion, but there are times they are all the rage. We are entering the rage time.
There are many ways to work a traditional granny square. They can be worked as one color or many. They can be work as join-as-you-go or sewn together later. Even the relatively simple stitch pattern as some variation.
I have stumbled across some techniques that I find handy when creating granny squares. When working in one color I prefer either working in the continuous round, or working half a corner and joining with a crochet stitch instead of a chain (this places the working yarn in the center of the corner without having to slip stitch across).
When working different colors each round I have found that joining with standing stitches really helps to give a nice clean look.
If you would like to try a hand at the granny square, check out this free pattern for my Granny Mug Jacket.
Granny Square Free Pattern
Granny Mug Jacket by Linda Dean
Embrace autumn and crochet classics with this Granny Square Mug Jacket. This design is simple, classic, and stylish all wrapped together.
Rnd 1: Ch 4, 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, ch 2, [3 dc in same st, ch 2] 3 times, join, fasten off.
Rnd 2: Join to any ch-2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp, ch 1, [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp) ch 1] 3 times, join, fasten off.
Are you changing colors?
Rnd 3: Join to any ch-2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp, 3 dc in ch-1 sp [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp), 3 dc inch-1 sp] 3 times, join, fasten off.
Lets get ready to join
Rnd 4: Join to any ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in same sp, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp] 2 times, join, fasten off.
Join Motifs together creating a strip.
Weave in ends. Block as desired.
Two Different Closures
Edging
Loop Closure
Joint to any ch-2 corner, to work down the long edge, ch 1, sc in same sp, sl st in each st along long edge to other corner, sc in corner, ch 15, sk entire short edge of rectangle, sc in next corner, sl st across long edge of rectangle, sc in corner, ch 5, sl st to first sc. Fasten off.
Button Closure
Join to any ch-2 corner to work down the short edge, ch 1, sc in same corner, sc in next 2 sts, ch 10, sc in next 6 sts, ch 10, in rem sts on side to corner, sl st in each st around rectangle to first sc, join. Fasten off.
Sew two ½” buttons on the opposite side of the loops.
Info about the photo
So whenever I put up photos that show my kitchen counters, I get questions. It is a granite countertop, but the most questions come up about my back splash. It is actually tin that is treated to look like copper, and comes from the company American Tin Ceiling. I have had it for several years, it is easy to maintain and cheaper then tile, not to mention easier to install. No, I get no kick backs from this company, but I usually get a lot of questions.
Changing most foundation rows into a Foundation Stitches can be done relatively easy.
A Foundation Stitch in crochet is when you create the chain and the stitch at the same time, instead of creating a chain and working into it. It creates a stitch with beginning with more stretch, and you do not have to count chains.
Starting
To start you will need to create a chain that is the equivalent of the turning chain for the stitch used, plus 1 more. Meaning if you are creating a single crochet foundation row, a single crochet typically uses a chain 1 to turn a row, so you would chain 1 + 1 more thus having a chain 2.
If you were creating a double crochet the typical turning chain is a chain 3, and then you would add 1 more chain. So to work a Foundation Double crochet chain 4.
Then begin working the stitch in the first chain created, this is the chain nearest the slip knot. After “anchoring” (yo and pull through a loop) in this chain, create a chain 1. This chain 1 is going to be the base of the stitch and where you will start working the next stitch, so I pinch this point, but inserting a stitch marker can help as you are learning to find the location again. After creating this chain 1, continue working the remaining steps for the desired stitch.
The “chain 1” that is marked or pinched, is where you will start the next stitch, insert your hook here under 2 loops for a nicer finished edge. “anchor” the stitch, and then chain 1 again, moving marker to or pinching this new chain, and finishing the stitch. Once again, this newly marker chain is where you will work the next stitch.
After you understand this concept of “anchoring”, create a chain, and finish a stitch; essentially creating the chain at the bottom of the stitch (much like an extended stitch but instead of adding height it is used as a base for the stitch), you can modify many differing foundation rows.
Creating Foundation Stitches- Single Crochet
Chain 2
Insert hook into 2nd chain from hook
Yarn over, pull up a loop
Chain 1 (mark or pinch this chain)
Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook.
*Insert hook into marked or pinched chain
Yarn over, pull up a loop,
Chain 1 (move marker to or pinch this chain)
Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook.
Repeat from * until desired length
Foundation Double Crochet
Chain 4
Yarn over, insert hook into 4th chain from hook
Yarn over, pull up a loop
Chain 1 (mark or pinch this chain)
[Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook] twice
*Yarn over, insert hook into marked or pinched chain
Diamonds Reflected Block will seem a bit wonky until it is blocked, so do not get discouraged early on. The other thing that will help with the “wonkiness” is to ensure that you are pulling the long loops up to the height of the working row. If these loops are too short they squish the fabric down and cause puckering.
I was inspired to work the Diamonds Reflected during my family’s trip to the Grand Canyon just after Christmas. It was my first time to visit, and it is an inspiring place. I was even swatching up some ideas for this block with flying in a helicopter over the North Rim. And yes, I was looking out the window too. Fortunately I don’t have the seat with the glass floor…my husband had that…I don’t know how well my “I don’t have a fear of heights” statement would succeed in that seat.
Rnd 1: With A, Ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in same st, ch 2, [3 sc, ch 2] 3 times, sl st to join. – 12 sc (3 sc per side), 4 ch-2 sps
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each st across] 3 times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in rem sts to beg st, sl st to join. –20 sc (5 sc per side), 4 ch-2 sps
Rnd 3-5: Rep Rnd 2. Fasten off after Rnd 5. – 44 sc (11 sc per side) , 4 ch-2 sps
Start the long loops
Rnd 6: With B, join with a ssc to any ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in same sp, sc in next 2 sts, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, sc in last 2 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, [sc in next 2 sts, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, sc in last 2 sts] 3 times, sl st to join.– 24 sc, 4ch-2 sps, 28 LLsc sts
Rnds 7-10: Rep Rnd 2. Fasten off at the end of Rnd 10. – 84 sc (21 sc per side), 4 ch-2 sps
You should start seeing the diamonds…
Rnd 11: With C, join with a ssc to any ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in same sp, sc in next 3 sts, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, sc in next st, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, sc in next 3 sts, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in next 3 sts, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, sc in next st, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, sc in next 3 sts] 3 times, sl st to join. –36 sc, 56 LLsc, 4 ch-2 sps
Rnds 12-15: Rep Rnd 2. Fasten off after Rnd 15. –124 sc (31 sc per side), 4 ch-2 sps
Last time with the long loops…
Rnd 16: With D, join with a ssc to any ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in same sp, sc in next 4 sts, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, [sc in next st, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd] 2 times sc in next 3 sts, {(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in next 4 sts, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, [sc in next st, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 4 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 3 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 2 Rnds below working Rnd, LLsc in next st 1 Rnd below working Rnd] 2 times sc in next 3 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp} 3 times, sl st to join. –48 sc, 84 LLsc, 4 ch-2 sps
Corner to Corner in the round is a great technique that lends itself to a fun look while being a relaxing project. This technique was brought to my attention by one of my students, as she was asking how to create it. After some research I discover it here.
Essentially you are creating the beginning of 4 corner to corner blankets at the same time. You only have to work the increases, and just increase from the one corner of a blanket, to then work the next increase of the next blanket.
The first few rounds can be a bit fiddly, but after that it becomes pretty easy.
Getting Started
To get started you create a chain 7, dc in the 4th chain from the hook, and in each ch across. There will be 4 dc and the turning chain.
First block
Now chain 3, and rotate the little block clockwise if your right handed, counter-clockwise if you are left, so that you work the next 4 double crochet in around the post of the last dc created. Work these 4 double crochets.
Around the post of the last dc createdBlock 2
Now 3 bocks
Rotate the blocks again in the same fashion, chain 3, and work 4 dc around the post of the last dc created. You will now have 3 blocks.
3 Blocks
Rotate the blocks one more time, chain 3 and work 3 dc around the last double crochet post created.
4 blocks, the center
The number of stitches changed in the last block because there is no new block to be created in this round, the reason all the previous blocks had 4 double crochets is because the last double crochet created is to be a base for the next block. As there is no new block after the 4th, it only needs 3 stitches.
Now slip stitch to the top of the adjacent square.
4 blocks
In my samples I have changed colors at this point, but you can easily continue with the same yarn.
Round 2
Turn the work like a page of a book, just like you do with your other crochet projects. Chain 6, dc in 4th chain from hook, and in each chain across. Now slip stitch to the opposite corner of the same block in round 1, this is the next corner from the chain.
Making the first block of Round 2Slip stitch the block in place.
Rotate the blocks again, and chain 3. Work 4 dc in the side of the next block in round 1. Chain 3, and rotate the blocks again, work 3 dc around the post of the last dc made. Slip stitch to the next corner in round 1. This process is repeated for all or Round 2. Slip Stitch to join at the top of the corner of the adjacent block.
Round 2
Round 3 and Beyond
Beginning Round 3 is the same process, turn the work like a page of a book. Chain 6 dc in the 4th chain from the hook, and in each chain across. Now slip stitch to the opposite corner of the same block in round 2, this is the next corner from the chain.
Rotate the blocks again, and chain 3. Work 3 dc in the side of the next block, and skip stitch to the top of the next adjacent block. I refer to this as filling in the blocks, in the rounds after Round 3, there will be more steps, but you work them the same.
Round 3 complete
When you get to the top step, the top step created will be the first side worked into on the next rotation, so after creating a chain 3, work 4 dc in the side of the next block in the round below. Chain 3, and rotate the blocks again, work 3 dc around the post of the last dc made. Slip stitch to the next corner in round 1. This process is repeated for all or Round 3 and all subsequent rounds. Slip Stitch to join at the top of the corner of the adjacent block.
Free Pattern
I have worked up a couple of toddler blankets in this technique. If you would like to work them, I have outlined the yarn and color changes I used below, but I used the pattern technique listed above.
Radiant Rounds Lapghan
Working corner to corner in the round creates a fun and easy blanket. The materials and pattern will make 2 blankets reversing the color orders.
Size: 41” square
Materials
Scheepjes Colour Crafter medium weigh 100% Acrylic yarn (100g/3.5oz/300m/328yrds)
5 skeins #1002 Ede (A),
1 skein each:
#1123 Roermond (B),
#2002 Gent (C),
#2004 Brussel (D),
#1116 Emmen (E),
#1117 Delft (F),
#1425 Deventer (G)
H/8/5.00mm crochet hook
Pattern
Rnd 1: With A, ch 7, dc in 4th ch from hook, and each ch across, rotate (clockwise if right handed, counter-clockwise if left handed), ch 3, 4 dc around post of last dc created, rotate, ch 3, 4 dc around port of last dc created, rotate, ch 3, 3 dc around post of last dc created, sl st to adjacent block, turn.
Rnd 2: Ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, and each ch across, sl st opposite corner of block below, rotate, [ch 3, 4 dc around post of block below, ch 3, rotate, 3 dc around post of last dc created, sl st to adjacent block] 3 times, ch 3, 3 dc around post of block below, sl st to top of adjacent block, turn.
Rnd 3-42: Ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, and each ch across, sl st to opposite corner of block below, {rotate, [ch 3, 3 dc around post of stitch below for each step block until top step] across to corner, ch 3, 4 dc around post of stitch in block below, rotate, ch 3, dc in around post of stitch just created, sl st to adjacent block} 2 times, [ch 3, 3 dc around post of stitch below for each step block until top step] across to corner, ch 3, 3 dc around post of stitch in block below, sl st to top of adjacent block, turn.
Wow! I am so excited to join you for another year of the Moogly CAL (check out all the squares here). This year my block has a few ends to weave in, and it uses more back post stitches than some may be accustom to. However I am happy with the results and I hope you like it too.
This block features texture work more than actual color work. Meaning if you want to work this block in only one color it will still be just as dramatic. Back Post Stitches are utilized as it really helps to add a great amount of textural and visual interest. The result of the stitch creates an raised affect that can be reminiscent of surface crochet. Tops of the stitches below become highlighted, adding the “chain” look on the surface of the fabric.
Jan’s Joy-Full Jamboree Block
Much of the remaining texture comes form working cluster stitches in places below the actual working round. I really love how this breaks up the visual rounds of the fabric and help add a continuous lines of texture. They almost act as “links” helping the eye dance along various “features”.
The block is named for two of my long time students, Jan and Joy. Both have had a trying year, yet crochet has continued to be an outlet. As many of us already realize crochet can be our therapy, just the movement of our hands help our mind. Fortunately it can do even more, by bringing people together. I look forward to seeing them at our weekly jamboree and helping them on their crochet journeys.
Treble Crochet 3 Cluster (tr3CL): Yo twice, insert hook into indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo twice, insert hook into same st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo twice, insert hook into same st, yo pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops.
Treble Crochet 2 Together (tr2tog): Yo twice, insert hook into the first indicated stitch, yo pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo twice, insert hook into the next stitch indicated, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo, pull through all 3 loops.
If you do not feel comfortable with standing stitches, they can be substituted by simply slip stitching to the indicated stitch, and creating a chain equivalent to the turning chain for the indicated stitch type. But if you want to learn about them, I offer a photo tutorial here. And Moogly offers a video here.
Pattern for this block of the Moogly CAL
Rnd 1: With A, Ch 5, dc in 5th ch from hook, ch 1 (dc in same st, ch 1) 6 times, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 dc, 8 ch-1 sps
Rnd 2: With B, join to any dc with a ssc, 3fpdc in same dc, (sc, 3 fpdc in each dc around, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 sc, 24 fpdc
Rnd 2, work 3 front post double crochets around the same stitch
Rnd 3: With C, join to any sc with a shdc, ch 2, hdc in same st, ch 1, [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next sc, ch 1] around, sl st to join. – 8 (hdc, ch 2, hdc), 8 ch-1 sps
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same sp, 5 dc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next hdc, ch 1, [sc in next hdc, 5 dc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next hdc, ch 1] rep around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 (5 dc shells), 8 ch-1 sps
Finished Round 3, and beginning of Round 4
We work our first Clusters in this Moogly CAL
Rnd 5: With D, join with a sbpdc to the first dc of any 5-dc shell, bpdc in the next 4 dc sts, ch 1, tr3CL in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (in Rnd 3), ch 1, [bpdc in each dc on next shell, ch 1, tr3CL in the ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (in Rnd 3), ch 1,] around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 tr3CL, 40 bpdc, 16 ch-1 sps
Working Rnd 5, the tr3CL works around the ch-1 sp in Rnd 3Finished the tr3CL and started the next bpdc
Rnd 6: With A, join with a ssc to a bpdc just before a tr3Cl, [tr2tog in the next sc 2 rows below (Rnd 4) and in the next sc 2 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), sc in each bpdc] around, sl st to join. –8 tr2tod, 40 sc,
First insertion point for the tr2tog worked in rnd 4Second insertion point for the tr2togThe tr2tog
Rnd 7: Sl st in tr2tog st, ch 5, (tr, ch 1) 3 times in same st, tr in same st, ch 1, sk 2 sc, blsc in next sc, [ch, 1 (tr, ch 1) 4 times in next tr2tog, tr in same st, sk 2 sc, ch 1, blsc in next sc] around, ch 1, sl st to 4th ch of ch 5 to join, fasten off. –8 (tr, ch 1) fans, 8 sc
Finished Rnd 7
Back Post stitches create an interesting checker of color
Rnd 8: With B, join with a sbpdc to the 1st tr of any fan, dc in ch-1 sp, bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, 2 bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch- 1 sp, bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, bpdc in next tr, tr3Cl in unused front loop of sc 3 rnds below (Rnd 6), [bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, bpdc innext tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, 2 bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch- 1 sp, bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, bpdc in next tr, tr3Cl in unused front loop of sc 3 rnds below (Rnd 6)] around, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 tr3cl, 48 bpdc, 32 dc
Rnd 8, location of tr3CL in front loop of Rnd 6Rnd 8 after working the tr3Cl…don’t forget the 2 bpdc at the top of the fan
Lets Start Squaring Things Up
Rnd 9: With C, join with a sdc to any of the 1st bpdc of the center of fan (the 2 bpdc worked in the same st), ch 2, dc in next bpsc (corner made), bpdc in next 4 sts, tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, bpdc in the next 2 sts,tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 4 sts, [dc in next bpdc, ch 2, dc in next bpdc (corner made), bpdc in next 4 sts, tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, bpdc in the next 2 sts,tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 4 sts] 3 times, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 tr2tog, 8 sc
One side of the block! Working rnd 9
Watch the stitch changes, we are flattening out the sides
Rnd 10: With D, join with sdc in any corner ch-2 sp, ch 2, dc in same sp, [bpdc in next 6 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp of corner] 3 times, bpdc in next 6 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, sl st to join.
Rnd 11: Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 corner, dc in each st across to corner, [(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 corner sp, dc in each st across] around, sl st to join, fasten off. –104 dc (26 dc each side)
On the Home Stretch, the Moogly CAL block is almost done…
Rnd 12: With C, join with shdc in any corner ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in same st, [blhdc in next 7 sts, tr3Cl in the top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9) (note: skip the stitch directly behind the cluster, here and throughout), blhdc in next 10 sts, tr3Cl in top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9), blhdc in next 7 sts, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 corner sp] 3 times, blhdc in next 7 sts, tr3Cl in the top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9), blhdc in next 10 sts, tr3Cl in top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9), blhdc in next 7 sts, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 tr3Cl
Rnd 13: With A, join with ssc in any ch-2 corner, ch 2, sc in same sp, blsc in each st across, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 corner sp, blsc in each st across] around, sl st to join, fasten off. –116 sc (29 sc each side)