Granny Squares never really go out of fashion, but there are times they are all the rage. We are entering the rage time.
There are many ways to work a traditional granny square. They can be worked as one color or many. They can be work as join-as-you-go or sewn together later. Even the relatively simple stitch pattern as some variation.
I have stumbled across some techniques that I find handy when creating granny squares. When working in one color I prefer either working in the continuous round, or working half a corner and joining with a crochet stitch instead of a chain (this places the working yarn in the center of the corner without having to slip stitch across).
When working different colors each round I have found that joining with standing stitches really helps to give a nice clean look.
If you would like to try a hand at the granny square, check out this free pattern for my Granny Mug Jacket.
Granny Square Free Pattern
Granny Mug Jacket by Linda Dean
Embrace autumn and crochet classics with this Granny Square Mug Jacket. This design is simple, classic, and stylish all wrapped together.
Rnd 1: Ch 4, 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, ch 2, [3 dc in same st, ch 2] 3 times, join, fasten off.
Rnd 2: Join to any ch-2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp, ch 1, [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp) ch 1] 3 times, join, fasten off.
Are you changing colors?
Rnd 3: Join to any ch-2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp, 3 dc in ch-1 sp [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp), 3 dc inch-1 sp] 3 times, join, fasten off.
Lets get ready to join
Rnd 4: Join to any ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in same sp, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp] 2 times, join, fasten off.
Join Motifs together creating a strip.
Weave in ends. Block as desired.
Two Different Closures
Edging
Loop Closure
Joint to any ch-2 corner, to work down the long edge, ch 1, sc in same sp, sl st in each st along long edge to other corner, sc in corner, ch 15, sk entire short edge of rectangle, sc in next corner, sl st across long edge of rectangle, sc in corner, ch 5, sl st to first sc. Fasten off.
Button Closure
Join to any ch-2 corner to work down the short edge, ch 1, sc in same corner, sc in next 2 sts, ch 10, sc in next 6 sts, ch 10, in rem sts on side to corner, sl st in each st around rectangle to first sc, join. Fasten off.
Sew two ½” buttons on the opposite side of the loops.
Info about the photo
So whenever I put up photos that show my kitchen counters, I get questions. It is a granite countertop, but the most questions come up about my back splash. It is actually tin that is treated to look like copper, and comes from the company American Tin Ceiling. I have had it for several years, it is easy to maintain and cheaper then tile, not to mention easier to install. No, I get no kick backs from this company, but I usually get a lot of questions.
Corner to Corner in the round is a great technique that lends itself to a fun look while being a relaxing project. This technique was brought to my attention by one of my students, as she was asking how to create it. After some research I discover it here.
Essentially you are creating the beginning of 4 corner to corner blankets at the same time. You only have to work the increases, and just increase from the one corner of a blanket, to then work the next increase of the next blanket.
The first few rounds can be a bit fiddly, but after that it becomes pretty easy.
Getting Started
To get started you create a chain 7, dc in the 4th chain from the hook, and in each ch across. There will be 4 dc and the turning chain.
Now chain 3, and rotate the little block clockwise if your right handed, counter-clockwise if you are left, so that you work the next 4 double crochet in around the post of the last dc created. Work these 4 double crochets.
Now 3 bocks
Rotate the blocks again in the same fashion, chain 3, and work 4 dc around the post of the last dc created. You will now have 3 blocks.
Rotate the blocks one more time, chain 3 and work 3 dc around the last double crochet post created.
The number of stitches changed in the last block because there is no new block to be created in this round, the reason all the previous blocks had 4 double crochets is because the last double crochet created is to be a base for the next block. As there is no new block after the 4th, it only needs 3 stitches.
Now slip stitch to the top of the adjacent square.
In my samples I have changed colors at this point, but you can easily continue with the same yarn.
Round 2
Turn the work like a page of a book, just like you do with your other crochet projects. Chain 6, dc in 4th chain from hook, and in each chain across. Now slip stitch to the opposite corner of the same block in round 1, this is the next corner from the chain.
Rotate the blocks again, and chain 3. Work 4 dc in the side of the next block in round 1. Chain 3, and rotate the blocks again, work 3 dc around the post of the last dc made. Slip stitch to the next corner in round 1. This process is repeated for all or Round 2. Slip Stitch to join at the top of the corner of the adjacent block.
Round 3 and Beyond
Beginning Round 3 is the same process, turn the work like a page of a book. Chain 6 dc in the 4th chain from the hook, and in each chain across. Now slip stitch to the opposite corner of the same block in round 2, this is the next corner from the chain.
Rotate the blocks again, and chain 3. Work 3 dc in the side of the next block, and skip stitch to the top of the next adjacent block. I refer to this as filling in the blocks, in the rounds after Round 3, there will be more steps, but you work them the same.
When you get to the top step, the top step created will be the first side worked into on the next rotation, so after creating a chain 3, work 4 dc in the side of the next block in the round below. Chain 3, and rotate the blocks again, work 3 dc around the post of the last dc made. Slip stitch to the next corner in round 1. This process is repeated for all or Round 3 and all subsequent rounds. Slip Stitch to join at the top of the corner of the adjacent block.
Free Pattern
I have worked up a couple of toddler blankets in this technique. If you would like to work them, I have outlined the yarn and color changes I used below, but I used the pattern technique listed above.
Radiant Rounds Lapghan
Working corner to corner in the round creates a fun and easy blanket. The materials and pattern will make 2 blankets reversing the color orders.
Size: 41” square
Materials
Scheepjes Colour Crafter medium weigh 100% Acrylic yarn (100g/3.5oz/300m/328yrds)
5 skeins #1002 Ede (A),
1 skein each:
#1123 Roermond (B),
#2002 Gent (C),
#2004 Brussel (D),
#1116 Emmen (E),
#1117 Delft (F),
#1425 Deventer (G)
H/8/5.00mm crochet hook
Pattern
Rnd 1: With A, ch 7, dc in 4th ch from hook, and each ch across, rotate (clockwise if right handed, counter-clockwise if left handed), ch 3, 4 dc around post of last dc created, rotate, ch 3, 4 dc around port of last dc created, rotate, ch 3, 3 dc around post of last dc created, sl st to adjacent block, turn.
Rnd 2: Ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, and each ch across, sl st opposite corner of block below, rotate, [ch 3, 4 dc around post of block below, ch 3, rotate, 3 dc around post of last dc created, sl st to adjacent block] 3 times, ch 3, 3 dc around post of block below, sl st to top of adjacent block, turn.
Rnd 3-42: Ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, and each ch across, sl st to opposite corner of block below, {rotate, [ch 3, 3 dc around post of stitch below for each step block until top step] across to corner, ch 3, 4 dc around post of stitch in block below, rotate, ch 3, dc in around post of stitch just created, sl st to adjacent block} 2 times, [ch 3, 3 dc around post of stitch below for each step block until top step] across to corner, ch 3, 3 dc around post of stitch in block below, sl st to top of adjacent block, turn.
Wow! I am so excited to join you for another year of the Moogly CAL (check out all the squares here). This year my block has a few ends to weave in, and it uses more back post stitches than some may be accustom to. However I am happy with the results and I hope you like it too.
This block features texture work more than actual color work. Meaning if you want to work this block in only one color it will still be just as dramatic. Back Post Stitches are utilized as it really helps to add a great amount of textural and visual interest. The result of the stitch creates an raised affect that can be reminiscent of surface crochet. Tops of the stitches below become highlighted, adding the “chain” look on the surface of the fabric.
Much of the remaining texture comes form working cluster stitches in places below the actual working round. I really love how this breaks up the visual rounds of the fabric and help add a continuous lines of texture. They almost act as “links” helping the eye dance along various “features”.
The block is named for two of my long time students, Jan and Joy. Both have had a trying year, yet crochet has continued to be an outlet. As many of us already realize crochet can be our therapy, just the movement of our hands help our mind. Fortunately it can do even more, by bringing people together. I look forward to seeing them at our weekly jamboree and helping them on their crochet journeys.
Treble Crochet 3 Cluster (tr3CL): Yo twice, insert hook into indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo twice, insert hook into same st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo twice, insert hook into same st, yo pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops.
Treble Crochet 2 Together (tr2tog): Yo twice, insert hook into the first indicated stitch, yo pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo twice, insert hook into the next stitch indicated, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo, pull through all 3 loops.
If you do not feel comfortable with standing stitches, they can be substituted by simply slip stitching to the indicated stitch, and creating a chain equivalent to the turning chain for the indicated stitch type. But if you want to learn about them, I offer a photo tutorial here. And Moogly offers a video here.
Pattern for this block of the Moogly CAL
Rnd 1: With A, Ch 5, dc in 5th ch from hook, ch 1 (dc in same st, ch 1) 6 times, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 dc, 8 ch-1 sps
Rnd 2: With B, join to any dc with a ssc, 3fpdc in same dc, (sc, 3 fpdc in each dc around, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 sc, 24 fpdc
Rnd 3: With C, join to any sc with a shdc, ch 2, hdc in same st, ch 1, [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next sc, ch 1] around, sl st to join. – 8 (hdc, ch 2, hdc), 8 ch-1 sps
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same sp, 5 dc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next hdc, ch 1, [sc in next hdc, 5 dc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next hdc, ch 1] rep around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 (5 dc shells), 8 ch-1 sps
We work our first Clusters in this Moogly CAL
Rnd 5: With D, join with a sbpdc to the first dc of any 5-dc shell, bpdc in the next 4 dc sts, ch 1, tr3CL in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (in Rnd 3), ch 1, [bpdc in each dc on next shell, ch 1, tr3CL in the ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (in Rnd 3), ch 1,] around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 tr3CL, 40 bpdc, 16 ch-1 sps
Rnd 6: With A, join with a ssc to a bpdc just before a tr3Cl, [tr2tog in the next sc 2 rows below (Rnd 4) and in the next sc 2 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), sc in each bpdc] around, sl st to join. –8 tr2tod, 40 sc,
Rnd 7: Sl st in tr2tog st, ch 5, (tr, ch 1) 3 times in same st, tr in same st, ch 1, sk 2 sc, blsc in next sc, [ch, 1 (tr, ch 1) 4 times in next tr2tog, tr in same st, sk 2 sc, ch 1, blsc in next sc] around, ch 1, sl st to 4th ch of ch 5 to join, fasten off. –8 (tr, ch 1) fans, 8 sc
Back Post stitches create an interesting checker of color
Rnd 8: With B, join with a sbpdc to the 1st tr of any fan, dc in ch-1 sp, bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, 2 bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch- 1 sp, bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, bpdc in next tr, tr3Cl in unused front loop of sc 3 rnds below (Rnd 6), [bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, bpdc innext tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, 2 bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch- 1 sp, bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, bpdc in next tr, tr3Cl in unused front loop of sc 3 rnds below (Rnd 6)] around, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 tr3cl, 48 bpdc, 32 dc
Lets Start Squaring Things Up
Rnd 9: With C, join with a sdc to any of the 1st bpdc of the center of fan (the 2 bpdc worked in the same st), ch 2, dc in next bpsc (corner made), bpdc in next 4 sts, tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, bpdc in the next 2 sts,tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 4 sts, [dc in next bpdc, ch 2, dc in next bpdc (corner made), bpdc in next 4 sts, tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, bpdc in the next 2 sts,tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 4 sts] 3 times, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 tr2tog, 8 sc
Watch the stitch changes, we are flattening out the sides
Rnd 10: With D, join with sdc in any corner ch-2 sp, ch 2, dc in same sp, [bpdc in next 6 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp of corner] 3 times, bpdc in next 6 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, sl st to join.
Rnd 11: Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 corner, dc in each st across to corner, [(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 corner sp, dc in each st across] around, sl st to join, fasten off. –104 dc (26 dc each side)
On the Home Stretch, the Moogly CAL block is almost done…
Rnd 12: With C, join with shdc in any corner ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in same st, [blhdc in next 7 sts, tr3Cl in the top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9) (note: skip the stitch directly behind the cluster, here and throughout), blhdc in next 10 sts, tr3Cl in top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9), blhdc in next 7 sts, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 corner sp] 3 times, blhdc in next 7 sts, tr3Cl in the top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9), blhdc in next 10 sts, tr3Cl in top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9), blhdc in next 7 sts, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 tr3Cl
Rnd 13: With A, join with ssc in any ch-2 corner, ch 2, sc in same sp, blsc in each st across, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 corner sp, blsc in each st across] around, sl st to join, fasten off. –116 sc (29 sc each side)
I feel really honored to be joining the Moogly CAL again this year, and I have decided to crochet my Darla’s Daisy Square! This adventure is a great way to learn new skills and make an afghan over the year. Check out all the blocks here. (Check out Moogly’s version of this square here)
Darla’s Daisy square was inspired by the fact that I needed a bit of cheeriness before the coming Spring. I find that there is no better way to bring in some cheeriness then a square inspired by flowers and bright colors. Granted, Darla is a friend and student that has studied to become a Master Gardener, so I am sure that I can find a few more flowers to brighten up my day.
Red Heart With Love, Medium weight 100% acrylic yarn
#1207 Cornsilk (A)
#1907 Boysenberry (B)
#1001 White (C)
#1538 Lilac (D)
#1562 Jadeite (E)
Hook J/10/6.00mm
Gauge: 12”x 12” square (30.5 x 30.5cm)
Notes
The squares starts in the round, then works only 2 sides of the square as rows.
The petals in Round 3 are created by working stitches around a double crochet post, then working a second row of stitches atop those just created, before repeating on a new post stitch.
Rnd 2: With B, join to any ch-1 sp (check out joiningwith a standing double crochet instead), ch 4 (counts as dc +ch 1), dc in same sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp around, sl st to join, fasten off. -16 dc, 8 ch-1 sps
Watch for the back and forth of the petals- crochet the daisy!
Rnd 3: With C, join around the post of any dc, ch 1 (check out joining with a standing single crochet instead), fpsc around post of dc st, (fphdc, fpdc) around same post of dc, ch 3, turn, dc in same st, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, (petal made), turn, [sk 1 dc post, (sc, hdc, dc) around next dc post, ch 3, turn, dc in same st, 2 dc in next 2 sts, (petal made), turn] 7 times, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 petals (consisting of 2 rows each, first row has 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, second row has 6 dc)
Now we set up some corners on the crochet daisy square
Rnd 4: With D, join to the final st of any petal, ch 6 (counts as dc, and ch-3 sp), dc in same sp (corner made), ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, sk 1 dc, dc in final st of petal, ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, (dc, ch 3, dc) in final st of petal (corner made), [ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, sk 1 dc, dc in final st of petal, ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, (dc, ch 3, dc) in final st of petal (corner made)] 2 times, ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, sk 1 dc, dc in final st of petal, ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, sl st to join. – 4 corners, 8 sc, 16 ch-2 sps, 4 dc on sides (1 dc on each side)
Rnd 5: Ch 3, [(2dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-3 sp of corner, dc in each st and 2 dc in each ch-2 sps across to ch-3 corner sp] 4 times, sl st to join, fasten off. -68 dc, 4 ch-1 sps
Rnd 6: With A, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in same sp, {[ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] 8 times, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] 8 times, ch 1} three times, sl st to join, fasten off. -40 sc, 36 ch-1 sps
Rnd 7: With C, join to to any ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, ch 1, 2 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp corner, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp corner, [(2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp corner] 2 times, sl st to join, fasten off. -88 dc, 4 ch1 sps
Rnd 8: With B, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in same sp, [ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] 11 times, ch 1, {(sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] 11 times, ch 1} 3 stimes, sl st to join, fasten off. -52 sc, 48 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-3 sps
Only working 2 sides of the crochet daisy square as part of the Moogly CAL
Row 9: With A, join to any ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp, fasten off. – 56 dc, 1 ch-1 sp
Row 10: With E, join first st of Row 9, ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 13 times, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 14 times, fasten off. -30 sc, 28 ch-1 sps, 1 ch 3 sp
Row 11: With B, join to the first ch-1 sp of Row 10, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across, fasten off. -60 dc
Row 12: With C, join to the first st of Row 11, ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 14 times, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 15 times, fasten off. -32 sc, 30 ch-1 sps, 1 ch 3 sp
Row 13: With D, join to the first ch-1 sp of Row 12, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across, fasten off. -64 dc
Row 14: With A, join to the first st of Row 13, ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 15 times, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 16 times, fasten off. -34 sc, 32 ch-1 sps, 1 ch 3 sp
All the way around again- Crochet the Daisy Square for the Moogly CAL
Rnd 15: With E, join to the first ch-1 sp of Row 14, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in next st, working down the end rows 9-14, evenly work 6 dc (to keep a visual pattern work 3 groups of 2 dc), 2 dc in the ch 3 sp of Rnd 8 (this sp will have the end of Row 9 worked in it), 2 dc in each of the ch-1 sps across to ch-3 corner sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 corner sp, 2 dc in each of the ch-1 sps across including the ch-3 sp or round 8 (this sp will also have the first stitches of Row 9), evenly work 6 dc over end of rows 9-14, 2 dc in the same stitch as the join (beginning of Rnd 15), ch 1, join, fasten off. -144 dc, 4 ch-1 sps
Crochet Unspoken Words, the free pattern. Often I find that crochet can speak emotions when I cannot, and it really does speak from the heart. At times when I am overwhelmed emotionally I can easily find my fingers and hands nimbly moving a hook with yarn to work through my feeling and sharing them with others.
I know that I am not alone in this feeling. Many use crochet for charity and gift giving, however I recently found myself crocheting due to natural disaster.
When I learned my friend lost her home during the Northern California Caldor fire this last August I felt at a loss. My heart was heavy for the undertaking she was facing, so I created an afghan to wrap an eternal hug.
Just some pattern insight
I know that many find themselves in similar situations, so I thought I would share the pattern. It is a 2 row repeat just changing the straight edge stitches from single to double crochet, while having the same stitches used at the “valleys” and “peaks” of this ripple pattern. The colors are alternated between three colors, there is no need to cut the yarn, just carry it up the side (learn how here).
Unspoken Words Throw
Finished size: approximately 55”x55”
Materials
K/10 1/2 /6.5mm crochet hook
Medium Weight yarn in 3 colors, 600 yrds of each color. (Sample created in Plymouth Encore 75% acrylic, 25% wool (100g/3.5oz/200yd) yarn, 3 skeins each of color #848, 1204, 1232)
Special Stitches
Back Loop 3 double crochet together over center (blodc3togcenter)– yo, insert hook into back loop of next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo pull through 2 loops, yo insert hook into top of decrease worked 2 rows below, yo pull up a loop, yo pull through 2, yo, insert hook into back loop of next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull up 2 loop, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
Abbreviations
ch(s)=chain(s)
sc= single crochet
blodc= back loop double crochet
blosc= back loop single crochet
blsc2tog= back loop 2 single crochet together
bpdc= back post double crochet
fpdc= front post double crochet
sk= skip
st(s)= stitch(es)
rep=repeat
Crochet Unspoken Words -the Free Pattern
Row 1: Ch 160, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 6 chs, 3 dc in next ch, sc in next 7 chs, [sk 3 chs, sc in 7 sts, 3 dc in next ch, sc in next 7 sts] rep 8 times, change color, turn.
The Repeat Begins
Row 2: Ch 2, working back loops, blodc in next st, blodc in next 6 sts, (fpdc, bpdc, fpdc) around next st, blodc in next 7 sts, [blodc3togcenter, blodc in next 7 sts, (fpdc, bpdc, fpdc) around next st, blodc in next 7 sts] rep 8 times, dc2tog, change color, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, blsc2tog, blosc next 6 sts, (fpdc, bpdc, fpdc) around next st, blsc in next 7 sts, [blodc3togcenter, blosc in next 7, (fpdc, bpdc, fpdc) around next st, blsc in next 7 sts] rep 8 times, sc2tog, change color, turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3, changing colors every row, alternating between three colors, until desired length.
Edging for Crochet Unspoken Words free pattern
Worked sc evenly around entire afghan. Fasten off, weave in ends.