Tunisian in the Round- Free Pattern

To help you celebrate National Crochet Month, I am sharing a technique to help advance your crochet skills, and including a free pattern. Today I am sharing how to work Tunisian Crochet in the Round.

First, I would like to thank Crochetville for including me in they blog tour for this month long celebration. Everyday you are introduced to a new designer, or hobbyist or teacher, to help inspire a new desire of crochet within you. Don’t miss a day, check out the participants here.

What Makes this Special

Tunisian crochet is an interesting technique that produces a fabric that can look woven, or even knitted. It is worked with in a two-step process. The first step is to load up the hook with loops (Forward Pass), like casting on in knitting, the second step is working all the loops off until only one remains (Return Pass).

Here is One Option

This back and for of the two-steps, actually can make it a bit challenging to work the fabric in the round, so often it is worked flat and then seamed. However, there are a couple of different approaches to working in the round. One is to work with a double ended crochet hook, so you can load from one end and work off the loops with the other. This process works the piece in a spiral and two strands of yarn, it looks nice, but finding double ended hooks is not exactly an easy task.

The Option I like

The method I employ more is one that I discovered from Jennifer Hanson, the Stitch Diva. It is a Tunisian Loop Return Pass. It involves using a cabled Tunisian hook, and adding joining loops to the fabric while working the Return Pass. I have tweaked it a bit from what Jennifer has in her video, as it works for me. So let me share my tweaked version.

How to Make it Work

After you have completed the Forward Pass of a Round, fold the cable of the hook so that the end is next to the hook, the next step for a return pass is to now yarn over and pull through a loop, you will still do this step but you wrap the yarn around the cable as you are yarning over. Basically I have the cable laying adjacent to the hook so that when I yarn over, the yarn is coming over the cable as well, and then I pull through 1 loop.

Include the cable in the yarn over.
Yarn over and pull through 1 loop on hook.

Keeping the cable laying adjacent to the hook still, I now yarn over and pull through 2 loops. At this point I have just added 2 loops to the end of the cable.


Yarn over the cable and hook again, then pull through 2 loops on the hook.
After working the 2 added joining loops to the cable, now work the standard process for a Return Pass of Yo, pull through 2 loops, across until 2 loops from the forward pass, and the 2 added joining loops remain.

Finishing the Join

I now continue the Return Pass, by yarning over and pulling through 2 loops without working over the cable until 2 loop from the Forward Pass and the 2 added loops remain, (this will be 4 loops on the hook). Yarn over and pull through the last 4 loops.

2 loops of the Return Pass, and the 2 added joining loops
Push the added joining loops up the cable and onto the hook. Yarn over and pull through all loops.
First Round is joined.

Work all subsequent round this way, and the fabric with be joined.

Yarn over cable and hook before beginning the Return Pass of every round.

In some of the Tunisian stitches there may be some gapping at the join. I have found this with the Tunisian Full Stitch for example, but overall it is satisfactory to me. In addition as the fabric is joined in the Return Pass, during the very first Round the beginning chain is not joined, so when I weave in the ends, I use this opportunity to close this gap.

The look of the seam after a few rounds.

Tunisian Cup Cozy Pattern

Tunisian Cup Cozy

Materials

Any medium weight yarn

M/N (9 mm) Tunisian cabled crochet hook

Special Stitches

Tunisian Loop Return Pass (TLRP)–  *Bring end of cable to working end of hook, bring working yarn to bottom of hook and in front of cable, loop working yarn under cable to top of hook,** YO, pull through a loop; Rep from * to ** once, YO, pull through 2 loops (2 loops added at end of row); (Yo, pull through 2 loops) until 4 loops remain on hook, YO, pull through 4 loops.

Tunisian Simple Stitch (Tss)Working from right to left, hold working yarn behind work, insert hook under next vertical bar, yarn over and draw up a loop.

Getting Started

Rnd 1: Ch 23, load hook by inserting hook in next ch, YO, pull up a loop across. TLRP. -23 sts

Rnd 2 & 3: Tss in each stitch. TLRP.

Rnd 4: Sc in each st across. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

1 for Me, 1 for You- Mixed Blocks

Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America, by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with you, I just ask that make one for donation.

Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through the United States.

Mixed Blocks Block

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

Corner to Corner

This is a popular technique that while a bit of a challenge to get started is quite addicting once you get it. This technique really allows you to customize the size of any project you want to work it with, you just need to refer to the “increase both side”, “increase one side, decrease one side”, and “decrease both sides” portions and work them until you have a desired size.

Gauge: 7”x9” rectangle

Materials

Medium weight yarn, in 3 colors MC (main color), CC1, CC2

K/10 ½/ 6.5mm hook

Notes

The “blocks” within this block are made up of a chain 3, and 3 double crochet stitches.

Each row creates new blocks, and work in the sides of the adjacent blocks of the previous row.

Since this Block uses three colors, instead of cutting the yarn, carry it along the side of the Block. If you need tips on this check it out here.

Block Pattern

With MC Ch 7

Increase Both Sides

Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch across, turn. – 4 dc (1 block)

Beginning of Row 2, change color and chain 6

Row 2: Change to CC1, ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 chs, sl st to the top of the turning chain of the adjacent dc block, ch 3, working down side of dc stitch of adjacent block work 3 dc, turn. -2 blocks

Row 2, dc in 4th ch from hook, and in next 2 chains.
Slip Stitch to the top of the adjacent block
Work in the side of the adjacent block, change color and chain 6

Row 3: Change to CC2, ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 chs, sl st to the top of the adjacent dc block, [ch 3, working down side of dc stitch of adjacent block work 3 dc, sl st to the top of the adjacent dc block] repeat across, turn. -3 blocks

Working second block of Row 3

Row 4-7: Rep Row 3, changing color every row in the pattern of MC, CC1, CC2, MC. – 7 blocks

Increase One Side, Decrease One Side

Row 8: Change to CC1, ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 chs, sl st to the top of the adjacent dc block, [ch 3, working down side of dc stitch of adjacent block work 3 dc, sl st to the top of the adjacent dc block] repeat across until 1 block remains, leave side of last block unworked, turn. -7 blocks

End of Row 8, do not work in the side of the last block.

Row 9: Change to CC2, sl st across the top of the last 3 dc, sl st to the top of the ch on block, [ch 3, working down side of dc stitch of adjacent block work 3 dc, sl st to the top of the adjacent dc block] repeat across, turn. -7 blocks

Beginning of Row 9, Sl st across the block to begin row, and decrease the side.

Decrease Both Sides

Row 10: Change to MC, sl st across the top of the last 3 dc, sl st to the top of the ch on block, [ch 3, working down side of dc stitch of adjacent block work 3 dc, sl st to the top of the adjacent dc block] repeat across until 1 block remains, leave side of last block unworked, turn. -6 blocks

Beginning of Row 10, sl st across to begin decreasing on both sides
End of Row 10, decreased on both sides.

Rows 11-15: Rep Row 10. -1 block

Fasten off.

End of Row 15. Note the stitch ends at the end of the block, not the corner of the overall Block.

Edge

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in sc in same st, sc in each st across until 1 st remains, 3 sc in last st, working over row ends evenly sc across to beg ch, 3 sc in last st, working in unused loops of beg ch, sc in each chain across, 3 sc in last st, working over row end evenly sc across, 2 sc in last st, sl st to beg sc, fasten off.

Weave in ends, block. (see tips here)

Energizing Rainbow Baby Blanket- Free Pattern

Every baby deserves something special, and I was asked to create something that unique, and it is a free pattern to you. The Energizing Rainbow is my creation inspired by a local Apple Orchard, Rainbow Orchards.

Energizing Rainbow Baby Blanket

It is created using the Catherine Wheel technique of one row of shells, followed by another row of large decreases. In this approach, I offset the colors in some of the rows to create waves instead of circles. I then alter it back to circles periodically to create a shift in the direction of the wave.

If you want to explore more about the Catherine Wheel, I explain more here, while I explain working decreases here. I also framed the waves with a row of single crochet, so that there is a break in the color blocking.

If you find that you want to explore more with this stitch technique, check out my two additional free patterns, Rolling Along (to benefit Warm Up America), and Moorish Tiles (as part of the Moogly 2020 CAL)

This blanket measures about 36″x 48″.

Materials

  • Hook: J/10/6.00mm
  • Lion Brand Basic Stitch Premium medium weigh 100% premium acrylic yarn (219yd/200m/3.5oz/100g) 1 skein each: (X) #113 Garnet, (X1) #133 Cayenne, (X2) #158 Saffron, (X3) #172 Ivy, (X4) #110 Saltwater, (X5) #147 Blackberry, (X6) #100 Snow

Special Stiches

Double Crochet 4 Together (dc4tog): [Yo, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo pull through 2 loops] 4 times, yo, pull through all 5 loops on hook

Double Crochet 9 Together (dc9tog): [Yo, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo pull through 2 loops] 9 times, yo, pull through all 10 loops on hook

Beginning to Make Waves

Row 1: With X ch 114, sc in 2nd ch from hook, [sk 3 chs, 9 dc in next ch, sk 3 chs, sc in next ch] across, change to X1, turn. – (14) 9 dc groups, 15sc

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X2, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc4tog, [ch 3, sc in next st, ch 3, dc9tog] 13 times, ch 3, sc in next st, ch 3, dc5tog, turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in same st, [9 dc in next sc, sc in center of dc9tog] 13 times, 9 dc in next sc, sc in turning ch, change to X3, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X4, turn.

Rows 6 & 7: Rep Rows 3 & 4, changing to X5 at the end of Row 7.

Making a Full Circle

Row 8: Rep Row 3.

Row 9: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, [sc in next sc, 9 dc in center of dc9tog] 13 times, sc in next sc, 5 dc in top of turning ch, change to X, turn.

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X1.

Back to Waves

Row 11: Ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sc in next st] 14 times, turn.

Row 12: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, [sc in center of dc9tog, 9 dc in sc] 13 times, sc in center of dc9tog, 5 dc in last sc, change to X2, turn.

Row 13: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X3, turn.

Rows 14 & 15: Rep Rows 11 & 12, changing to X4 at the end of Row 15.

Row 16: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X5, turn.

Rows 17 & 18: Rep Rows 11 & 12, changing to X at the end of Row 18.

Another Circle

Row 19: Rep Row 11.

Row 20: Ch 1, sc in same st, [9 dc in center of dc9tog, sc in next sc] 14 times, change to X1, turn.

Row 21: Ch 1, scv in each st across, change to X2, turn.

Back to Waves

Row 22: Ch 3, dc4tog, ch 3, [sc in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3] 13 times, sc in next st, dc5tog, turn.

Row 23: Ch 1, sc in same st, [9 dc in sc, sc in center of dc9tog] 13 times, 9 dc in next sc, sc in top of turning ch, change to X3, turn.

Row 24: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X4, turn.

Rows 25 & 26: Rep Rows 22 & 23, changing to X5 at end of Row 26, turn.

Row 27: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X, turn.

Rows 28 & 29: Rep Rows 22 & 23 changing to X1 at end of 29, turn.

Going Around Again

Row 30: Rep Row 22.

Row 31: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, [sc in next sc, 9 dc in center of dc9tog] 13 times, sc in next sc, 5 dc in top of turning ch, change to X2, turn.

Row 32: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X3, turn.

Energizing Rainbow

Making it Wavy

Row 33: Ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sc in next st] 14 times, turn.

Row 34: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, [sc in center of dc9tog, 9 dc in sc] 13 times, sc in center of dc9tog, 5 dc in last sc, change to X4, turn.

Row 35: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X5, turn.

Rows 36 & 37: Rep Rows 33 & 34 changing to X at the end of Row 37, turn.

Row 38: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X1, turn.

Rows 39 & 40: Rep Rows 33 & 34 changing to X2 at the end of Row 40, turn.

Circles, Circles, Circles

Row 41: Rep Row 33.

Row 42: Ch 1, sc in same st, [9 dc in center of dc9tog, sc in next sc] 14 times, change to X3, turn.

Row 43: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X4, turn.

Love Some More Waves

Row 44: Ch 4, dc4tog, ch 3, [sc in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3] 13 times, sc in next st, ch 3, dc5tog, turn.

Row 45: Ch 1, sc in same st, [9 dc in sc, sc in center of dc9tog] 13 times, 9 dc in sc, sc in turning ch, change to X5, turn.

Row 46: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X, turn.

Rows 47 & 48: Rep Rows 44 & 45, changing to X1 at the end of Row 48.

Row 49: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X2, turn.

Rows 50 & 51: Rep Rows 44 & 45, changing to X3 at the end of Row 51.

Around Again

Row 52: Rep Row 44.

Row 53: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, [sc in sc, 9 dc in center of dc9tog] 13 times, sc in sc, 5 dc in turning ch, change to X4, turn.

Row 54: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X5, turn.

Lets make it Ripple

Row 55: Ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sc in next st] 14 times, turn.

Row 56: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, [sc in center of dc9tog, 9 dc in sc] 13 times, sc in center of dc9tog, 5 dc in last st, change to X, turn.

Row 57: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X1, turn.

Rows 58 & 59: Rep Rows 55 & 56 changing to X2 at the end of Row 59, turn.

Row 60: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X3, turn.

Rows 61 & 62: Rep Rows 55 & 56 changing to X4 at the end of Row 62, turn.

Another Going Around

Row 63: Rep Row 55.

Row 64: Ch 1, sc in same st, [9 dc in center of dc9tog, sc in next sc] 14 times, change to X5, turn.

Row 65: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X, turn.

And Back to Up and Down

Row 66: Ch 3, dc4tog, ch 3, [sc in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3] 13 times, sc in next st, ch 3, dc5tog, turn.

Row 67: Ch 1, sc in same st, [9 dc in sc, sc in center of dc9tog] 13 times, 9 dc in sc, sc in last st, changing to X1, turn.

Row 68: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X2, turn.

Rows 69 & 70: Rep Rows 66 & 67 changing to X3 at the end of Row 70.

Row 71: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X4, turn.

Rows 72 & 73: Rep Rows 66 & 67 changing to X5 at the end of Row 73.

Getting Dizzy Yet…More circles

Row 74: Rep Row 66.

Row 75: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, [sc in sc, 9 dc in center of dc9tog] 13 times, sc in sc, 5 dc in turning ch, change to X, turn.

Row 76: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X1, turn.

Up & Dow, Up & Down

Row 77: Ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sc in next st] 14 times, turn.

Row 78: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, [sc in center of dc9tog, 9 dc in sc ] 13 times, sc in center of dc9tog, 5 dc last sc, change to X2, turn.

Row 79: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X3, turn.

Rows 80 & 81: Rep Rows 77 & 78 changing to X4 at the end of Row 81.

Row 82: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to X5, turn.

Rows 83 & 84: Rep Rows 77 & 78, change to X at the end of Row 84.

Even Out to Finish

Row 85: Rep Row 77, fasten off.

Edging

Rnd 1: With X6, join to any corner, ch 1, 3 sc in in same corner, sc evenly on side of afghan working 3 sc in each corner, sl st to join to first sc, turn.

Rnds 2-5: Ch 1, sc in same st, work sc in each stitch across to corner (the center sc of 3sc), working 3 sc in corner, sl st to join, turn. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: With X5, join to any corner, ch 1, 3sc in same corner, sc in each stitch across working 3 sc in corner, sl st to join, turn. Fasten off.

Rnd 4: With X4, join to any corner, ch 1, 3sc in same corner, sc in each stitch across working 3 sc in corner, sl st to join, turn. Fasten off.

Rnd 5: With X3, join to any corner, ch 1, 3sc in same corner, sc in each stitch across working 3 sc in corner, sl st to join, turn. Fasten off.

Rnd 6: With X2, join to any corner, ch 1, 3sc in same corner, sc in each stitch across working 3 sc in corner, sl st to join, turn. Fasten off.

Rnd 7: With X1, join to any corner, ch 1, 3sc in same corner, sc in each stitch across working 3 sc in corner, sl st to join, turn. Fasten off.

Rnd 8: With X, join to any corner, ch 1, 3sc in same corner, sc in each stitch across working 3 sc in corner, sl st to join. Fasten off.

You’ve Got Options- Diamond Star Square

What fun to be part of the You’ve Got Options CAL! This is a project that actually has 2 different squares, different sizes, but built upon each other. If you have missed any of them, please check out all the opportunities here.

For my part I worked a square that utilizes carrying your throughout the project, crocheting over the color you are not working. This allows for some specialized color changes without having to weave in a bunch of ends.

A little insight

It also uses a process that creates inverted V’s, by using front post double crochet stitches that are worked together. These may be new techniques for you, or stitches you may not work often, so I offer some detailed information about them, and recommend reviewing it before beginning the squares. If you want to understand more about post stitches, both front and back are used in this design, I share some insight here.  To understand more about how to work decrease stitches, I share some tips here.

After you complete the smaller 6″ square, you then really put this square on its head, by moving the corners to the sides. This causes the square to rest on its point.

Square measures 12” x 12” (at end of Round 6, square measures 6” x 6”)

Materials

  • J/10/6.00mm crochet hook
  • Lion Brand Basic Stitch Premium medium weight 100% premium acrylic yarn (3.5 oz/100g/219yrds/200m) 1 skein each color #141 Plum (MC), #98 Cream (CC)

Abbreviations:

  • Beg: Beginning
  • Bpdc: back post double crochet
  • Bphdc: back post half double crochet
  • Bpsc: back post single crochet
  • CC: contrasting color
  • Ch: chain
  • Dc: double crochet
  • Fpdc: front post double crochet
  • Fphdc: front post half double crochet
  • Hdc: half double crochet
  • MC: main color
  • Rnd: round
  • Sc: single crochet
  • Sl st: slip stitch
  • Sp: space
  • St(s): Stitch(es)

Special Stitches

Front Post Double Crochet Two Together (Fpdc2tog):  Yarn over, insert hook from front to back and then to front again around post of stitch last worked into (or around st indicated) on previous row, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook, skip next st on rnds 2 and yarn over, insert hook from front to back and then to front again around post of next stitch (or around st indicated), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Front Post Treble Crochet Two Together (Fptr2tog): Yarn over twice, insert hook from front to back and then to front again around post of indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice, yarn over twice, insert hook from front to back and then to front again around post of indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Notes

Leave unused color behind your work and work over unused color when possible.

The Smaller Block

Rnd 1: With MC, ch 4 (last 3 chains count as dc), 15 dc in 4th ch from hook, join to top of beg ch. -16 dc

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as tr here and throughout), dc in same st, dc in next st, change color to CC, fpdc2tog, change color to MC, [2 dc in next st (behind fpdc2tog), 1 dc in next st (used for 2nd leg of fpdc2tog), change color to CC, fpdc2tog, change color to MC] repeat around, slip stitch in top of beg ch-3 to join. – 8 fpdc2tog, 24 dc

Working stitch location of “legs” of fpdc2tog
Completed Round 2

Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, change color to CC, fpdc2tog over last and first fpdc2tog, change color to MC, skip next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next fpdc2tog, [2 dc in next st, change color to CC, fpdc2tog over last-used and next fpdc2tog, change color to MC, sk next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next fpdc2tog] repeat around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. -8 fpdc2tog, 40 dc

Completed Round 3

Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, change color to CC, fptr2tog over last and first fpdc2tog of previous row, change color to MC, [skip next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, change color to CC, fptr2tog over last-used and next fpdc2tog, change color to MC] repeat around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. -8 fptr2tog, 56 dc

Working stitch location for “legs” of fptr2tog
Completed Round 4

We start making corners

Rnd 5: Ch 3, dc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, change color to CC, fphdc around fptr2tog, change color to MC, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, change color to CC, (fpdc, ch 1, fpdc) around fptr2tog (corner made), change color to MC, [dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, change color to CC, fphdc around fptr2tog, change color to MC, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, change color to CC, (fpdc, ch 1, fpdc) around fptr2tog, change color to MC] repeat around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off CC. -4 fphdc, 4 (fpdc, ch 1, fpdc) corners, 16 dc, 16 hdc, 24 sc

Rnd 6: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), [hdc in each st across to ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp] repeat around, hdc in last st, sl st in top of beg ch-2 to join. Fasten off. – 68 hdc, 4 (dc, ch 1, dc) corners, (19 sts on each side of square)

Making the Bigger Square

Rnd 7: With CC, join to any ch-1 corner sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same sp as join, bpdc around each st to next ch-1 sp, [(2dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1 sp, bpdc around each st to next ch-1 sp] repeat around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. -76 bpdc, 4 (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) corners

Rnd 8: Ch 3, dc in next st, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, [dc in next 3 sts, change color to MC, fpdc2tog, change color to CC] five times, {dc in next 3 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, [dc in next 3 sts, change color to MC, fpdc2tog, change color to CC] five times} repeat around, dc in last st, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. -20 fpdc2tog, 72 dc, 4 (dc, ch 1, dc) corners

Rnd 9: Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, {(dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, dc in next 6 sts, [change color to MC, fpdc2tog over previous and next fpdc2tog, change color to CC, sk next st, dc in next 3 sts] 4 times, dc in next 3 sts} repeat around omitting last 3 dc on last repeat, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off both colors. -16 fpdc2tog, 84 dc, 4 (dc, ch 1, dc) corners

We are moving the corner…

Rnd 10: Note corner location will shift in this round. With MC, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, bpsc around next 4 sts, bphdc around next 4 sts, bpdc around next 5 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st, bpdc around next 5 sts, bphdc around next 4 sts, bpsc around next 4 sts, [sc in ch-1 sp, bpsc around next 4 sts, bphdc around next 4 sts, bpdc around next 5 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st, bpdc around next 5 sts, bphdc around next 4 sts, bpsc around next 4 sts] repeat around, sl st in first sc to join. –32 bpsc, 32 bphdc, 40bpdc, 4 sc, 4 (dc, ch 1, dc) corners

Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 4 sts, [hdc in next 5 sts, dc in next 5 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, dc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 5 sts, sc in next 9 sts] 3 times, hdc in next 5 sts, dc in next 5 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, dc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 5 sts, sc in last 4 sts, sl st in first sc to join. -36 sc, 40 hdc, 40 dc, 4 (dc, ch 1, dc) corners

Rnd 12: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 10 sts, [hdc in next 5 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, hdc in next 5 sts, sc in next 21 sts] 3 times, hdc in next 5 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, hdc in next 5 sts, sc in next 10 sts, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. -84 sc, 40 hdc, 4 (dc, ch 1, dc) corners

Rnd 13: With CC, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 2 (counts as hdc), (hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in same sp as join, bphdc in each st across to next ch-sp, [(2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in ch-1 sp, bphdc in each st across to next ch-sp] repeat around, sl st to join. Fasten off. Block. –132 bphdc, 4 (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) corners (37 stitches on each side of square)

The wrong side of the Diamond Star Square

1 for Me, 1 for You- Rolling Along Block

Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America, by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with you, I just ask that make one for donation.

Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through the United States.

Rolling Along Block

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

Rolling Along Block

Working the Catherine’s Wheel

Catherine’s Wheel is a classic crochet stitch that works one row of shells over a row of decreases to create a circle or wheel look. I have made a couple of changes to the classic pattern. For starters instead of working a single crochet after completing the shell or decrease, I work a slip stitch. I find that this help prevent “gapping” that occurs in the chain 3 area.

Working a dc9tog, you will have 10 loops on the hook.
Yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook.
Slip stitch worked after the chain 3, to secure the decrease.
Working a decrease on the corner, dc5tog.

I should also point out that I work the shells in “the center of the decrease”, this is the biggest opening. However it is really not the completion of the decrease stitch, but the third chain. I feel that working here emphasizes the “center”, when working in the actual point of completion just looks a bit wonky.

Work the Shell in the center of the decrease, it creates a “hole”.
Working a shell at the beginning of a row means working in the center of the decrease.

I do have an exception to this, and that is when finishing a row with a shell it needs to be worked in the top of the turning chain to keep the edge straight. This will be just over from the “center”.

The “exception” the last shell is worked in the top of the turning chain, this helps to keep a straight edge.

Gauge

7”x9” rectangle

Materials

Medium weight yarn, in 2 colors MC (main color), CC1

K/10 ½/6.5mm crochet hook

Special Stitches

Double crochet 4 together (dc4tog): Working over the next 4 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] six times, yo, pull through all 5 loops on hook.

Double crochet 5 together (dc5tog): Working over the next 5 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] six times, yo, pull through all 6 loops on hook.

Double crochet 9 together (dc9tog): Working over the next 9 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] six times, yo, pull through all 10 loops on hook.

Note:

Change colors without fastening off the yarn. Instead carry the yarn along the edge, and it will be hidden in the edging round. Here are some tips for do it.

The Pattern

With MC Chain 25

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, [sk 3 chs, 9 dc in next ch, sk 3 chs, sc in next ch] three times, change to CC1, turn. –(3) 9 dc shells, 5 sc

Row 2: Ch 3, dc4tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc5tog, turn. – (2) dc9tog, (1) dc4tog, (1) dcs5tog

Row 3: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 5 dc in top of turning ch-3, change to MC, turn. (2) 9 dc shells, (2) 5 dc shells

Row 4: Ch 1, sl st in same st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in last st, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sl st in same st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in last st, change to CC1, turn.

Row 6-13: Rep Rows 2-5 twice.

Row 14: Rep Row 2. Fasten off.

Edging

With color MC, sc in each st across, 3 sc in corner, work evenly sc around block working 3 sc in each corner. Finish off.