Softie Crochet- Jack the Rabbit Free Pattern

I have always had a soft spot for Rabbits, and as such I have always loved this time of year as it brings out Easter Bunnies everywhere. I have created a simple free pattern for a toy bunny, that might be just perfect for a little one in your life. This is an amigurumi for the beginner, as it has minimal shaping, I like the rustic charm.

Jack the Scrap Rabbit and Jack the Rabbit

This free pattern is part of the 2020 Softie CAL! There are many great designs to keep you inspired, check all of them out here. Also, don’t miss the giveaways.

Materials

Lion Brand Basic Stitch Premium 100% acrylic medium weight yarn (3.5 oz/100g/219yd/200m) colors: MC-#126 Goldmine, CC1-#98 Cream, CC2-#142 Boysenberry, CC3- #109 Coastal (OR, make a Scrap Jack, by using any medium weight yearn on hand)

Poly-Fils Crafters Choice Dry Polyester Packing Fiber Fill

G/6/4.25mm crochet hook

Note…Save your time weaving in ends. Instead of weaving in ends, simply push the ends to the wrong side of the fabric, when seaming and stuffing ensure that the ends are with the stuffing.

Jack the Rabbit

Head (Make 2)

Round 1: With MC, Magic Loop, (tip, learn the Magic Loop or substitute another beginning here)ch 3, 13 dc in loop, pull loop closed, sl st to top of beg ch. -14 dc

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join. -28dc

Round 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to join. -42 dc

Round 4: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around, sl st to join. -56 dc

Round 5: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around, sl st to join. Fasten off. -70 dc

Back (Make 1)

Round 1: With MC, Magic Loop, ch 3, 13 dc in loop, pull loop closed, sl st to top of beg ch. -14 dc

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join. -28dc

Round 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to join. -42 dc

Round 4: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around, sl st to join. -56 dc

Round 5: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around, sl st to join. -70 dc

Round 6: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 4 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts] around, sl st to join. Fasten Off. -84 dc

Belly (Make 1)

Round 1: With CC1, Magic Loop, ch 3, 13 dc in loop, pull loop closed, sl st to top of beg ch. -14 dc

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join. -28dc

Round 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to join. -42 dc

Round 4: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around, sl st to join. -56 dc

Round 5: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around, sl st to join, change to MC. -70 dc

Round 6: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 4 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts] around, sl st to join. Fasten Off. -84 dc

Two heads, a Belly and a Back

Joining Head to Body

With Right sides facing each other, stack 1 Head on the Back, working through stitches of both fabrics, sl st in 10 stitches. Repeat with last Head and Belly.

Join a head to a body, with rights sides facing each other when joining.

With Wrong Sides facing each other, stack the 2 sides on top of each other, working through stitches of both fabrics, sc around the entire outer edge of sides, filling with poly-fil before completely finishing. (Tip: Begin joining near neck to ensure that the neck of both sides matchup)

Putting the wrong sides facing each other of head/body seam the body together and stuff it as you go.

Arms/Legs

Working in the joining round of Head and Body, find your personal placement for 2 legs and 2 arms. You will work a front side and back side of each, and these will be seamed together in the final steps.

Front Side

Row 1: With MC, working in front loop, sc in 4 sts, turn. -4 sc

Row 2 & 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc

Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc

Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -6 sc

Row 7-18: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off at the end of Row 18.

Back Side

Row 1: With MC, working in back loop, sc in 4 sts, turn. -4 sc

Row 2 & 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc

Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc

Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -6 sc

Row 7-18: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off at the end of Row 18.

Ears

Working in the joining round of Head find your personal placement for 2 ears. You will work a front side and back side of each, and these will be seamed together in the final steps.

Special Stitches

Single Crochet Two Together (sc3tog): Insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull through a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull through a loop, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Single Crochet Three Together (sc3tog): Insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull through a loop, [insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull through a loop] twice, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Front Side

Row 1: With CC1, working in front loop, sc in 3 sts, turn. -3 sc

Row 2 & 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -3 sc

Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc

Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc

Row 7-15: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc

Row 16: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, turn. – 2 sc2tog, 1 sc

Row 17: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -3 sc

Row 18: Ch 1, sc3tog, turn. -1 sc3tog

Row 19: Ch 1, sc in only st, fasten off.

Back Side

Row 1: With MC, working in back loop, sc in 3 sts, turn. -3 sc

Row 2 & 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -3 sc

Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc

Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc

Row 7-15: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc

Row 16: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, turn. – 2 sc2tog, 1 sc

Row 17: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -3 sc

Row 18: Ch 1, sc3tog, turn. -1 sc3tog

Row 19: Ch 1, sc in only st, fasten off.

Working two side of each arm/leg/ear, join to the seam of the body. One side in a front loop, one side in a back loop.

Seaming All Arms/Legs/Ears

With CC2, join to any edge seam of body or head, sc in each st across to next arm/leg/ear, working through both fabrics, evenly sc in ends of rows and stitches, filling with poly-fil before completing seaming, continue all the way around body, sl st to join. Fasten off.

Working all around the edge of the body, seam and stuff the arms/legs/ears

Upper Lip (Mustache)

With CC1 Ch 18, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sk next 3 chs, 9 dc in next ch, sk 3 chs, sl st in next ch, sk 3 chs, 9 dc in next ch, sk next 3 chs, sc in last ch. Fasten off. With Shells facing downward, whip stitch lip to face.

Tail

Round 1: With CC1, Magic loop, ch 3, 8 dc in loop, pull loop closed, sl st to join.

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to join. Fasten off. Whip stitch tail to back of body, filling with poly-fil before completing seaming.

Tail and Upper LIp

Nose

With CC2, ch 3, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, fasten off. Whip stitch at sl st of lip.

Eyes (Make 2)

With CC3, ch 3, 5 dc in 3rd ch from hook, fasten off. Whip stitch to face.

Jack the Rabbit

Short Rows in Crochet

To help you celebrate National Crochet Month, I am sharing a technique to help advance your crochet skills, and including a free pattern. Today I am sharing how to work Short Rows, in both traditional and Tunisian Crochet.

First, I would like to thank Crochetville for including me in they blog tour for this month long celebration. Everyday you are introduced to a new designer, or hobbyist or teacher, to help inspire a new desire of crochet within you. Don’t miss a day, check out the participants here.

There are some terms that can be a bit intimidating the fiber arts, short rows can be one of them. However, they really are quite straight forward.

What Makes it Special

Learning how to work short rows in crochet will help expand crochet skills by adding subtle shaping in garments and the ability to create dramatic effects in just about any work you wish.

A short row is exactly as it sounds, you work your row short. Meaning you do not finish the row.

Sometimes this is worked by tapering the stitch height, by working shorter and shorter stitches until they are near a slip stitch. The work is turned, and possibly started by tapering the stich height upward, it is completed.

Working As A Dart

In the case of using short rows as is seen in sewing as if a dart, or a point in fabric, you work un-worked stitches. The next row works to the point where two rows below the row was worked short, then it continues to the remained of the stitches not worked three rows below.

Making A Wedge…

In the case of making a triangular shape, a multiple of short rows are worked, so that there are fewer stiches in each row. I often use this approach in creating shawls, essentially creating triangular wedges that I then build atop one another.

It is this last approach that I also use to create washcloths and potholders. I create “wedges” of triangles that work on one another to eventually create a circle.

Starting Your Circle

Using any yarn, with a comparable size hook, these patterns are great for scrap yarns. You can adjust the size by adjusting the number of beginning chains as the foundation. Just remember that this is only half the size of the finished product, and you will remove one stitch per row on the same edge of the fabric. It can be used utilizing either traditional crochet or Tunisian, and I share a quick pattern for both below.

Short Row Washcloth/Potholder

Short Row Crochet Washcloth/Potholder- Worked in Wedges

First Wedge

Row 1: Ch 16, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -15 sc

Row 2: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -14 sc

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 12 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -13sc

Row 4: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -12 sc

You Should Start Seeing the “Stair Stepping”

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 10 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -11sc

Row 6: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -10 sc

Don’t work the last stitch, and slip stitch in the first stitch of the next row…removing one stitch in each row on the same edge of the fabric.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 8 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -9sc

Row 8: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -8 sc

Over Halfway on the First Wedge….

Row 9: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 6 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -7sc

Row 10: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -6 sc

Row 11: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 4 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -5sc

Row 12: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc

Almost There…

Row 13: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -3sc

Row 14: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -2 sc

Row 15: Ch 1, sc in same st, turn. -1 sc

Row 16: Sl st in same st, turn.

Second Wedge

Row 17: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in the edge stitch of Rows 15-1 (essentially either the stitch skipped in a row, or the slip stitch after the row is turned), turn. -15 sc

Row 18-32: Rep Rows 2 through 16 of wedge 1.

Wedges 3-8

Repeat Second Wedge.

Seam Wedge 1 to Wedge 8.

Tunisian Short Row Washcloth/Potholder

Short Row Tunisian Crochet Washcloth/Potholder

These same principals apply to Tunisian crochet as well.

First Wedge

Row 1: Ch 15, pick up loops in each ch across. RP. -15 sts

Row 2: Tss in next 13 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -14 tss

Row 3: Tss in next 12 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -13 tss

Row 4: Tss in next 11 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -12 tss

Still not working the last stitch…

Row 5: Tss in next 10 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -11 tss

Row 6: Tss in next 9 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -10 tss

Don’t work the last stitch of each row of Tunisian crochet, then begin the regular Return Pass. Thus removing 1 stitch from each row on the same edge of the fabric.

Row 7: Tss in next 8 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -9 tss

Row 8: Tss in next 7 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -8 tss

Are you seeing the angle?

Row 9: Tss in next 6 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -7 tss

Row 10: Tss in next 5 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -6 tss

Row 11: Tss in next 4 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -5 tss

Row 12: Tss in next 3 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -4 tss

Almost finished the first wedge…

Row 13: Tss in next 2 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -3 tss

Row 14: Tss in next 1 st, leaving last st unworked. RP. -2 tss

Row 15: Tss in same st, leaving last st unworked. RP. -1 tss

Second Wedge

Row 16: Pick up loops in each unworked stitch of rows below. RP.-15tss

Row 17-30: Rep Rows 2-15 of wedge 1.

Wedges 3-8

Repeat Second Wedge.

Seam Wedge 1 to Wedge 8.

1 For Me, 1 For You- Quick Weave Block

Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America, by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with you, I just ask that make one for donation.

Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through the United States.

Quick Weave Block

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

The Basket Weave Stitch

Utilizing stitch placement is all that makes this pattern appear. It is essentially only a double crochet stitch, however it is worked around the body or post of the stitch a row below. There are two different stitches, the back post and the front post.

Post stitches can be worked with any stitch type, and I describe below how to work the location. Check out more information about stitch locations here.

Back Post Locations

The back post pushes the post away from the fabric facing. This is done by inserting the hook from the back side of the fabric to the front, between the “post” or “body” of the next stitch to be worked. Then push the hook from the front to the back of the fabric on the other side of the “post” or “body”. I have found this easier to view by shifting the fabric a bit and looking down at the top of the stitches, as I can see the body being pushed backward.

Insert the Hook from the back of the fabric
Push the hook to the back again. This image is looking down from the top of the fabric, note how the post is pushed to the back of the fabric.

Front Post Location

The front post is often easier to work, and pushes the post toward the front of the fabric. This is done by inserting the hook from the front to the back of the fabric between the “post” or “body” of the next stitch to be worked. Then re-insert the back of the fabric to the front of the fabric on the other side of the “post” or “body”.

Hook location for the Front post

Gauge: 7”x9” rectangle

Materials

Medium weight yarn, in 3 colors MC (main color), CC1, CC2

K/10 ½/ 6.5mm hook

Notes

Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc): Yo, insert hook from back to front and then to back again around post of stitch, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice.

Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Yo, insert hook from front to back and then to front again around post of stitch, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice.

Since this Block uses three colors, instead of cutting the yarn, carry it along the side of the Block. If you need tips on this check it out here.

Front post double crochets are easily seen, the back post double crochets show a stripe of color in the row below and look like it is behind the row below.

Block Pattern

With MC Ch 22

Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch across, change to CC1, turn. – 20 dc

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [fpdc in next 3 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC2, turn. – 2 dc,  9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [bpdc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to MC, turn. – 2 dc,  9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

The Beginning of the Repeat

Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [fpdc in next 3 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC1, turn. – 2 dc,  9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [bpdc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC2, turn. – 2 dc,  9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Row 6: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [fpdc in next 3 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to MC, turn. – 2 dc,  9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [bpdc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC1, turn. – 2 dc,  9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Row 8: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [fpdc in next 3 sts, bpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to CC2, turn. – 2 dc,  9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Row 9: Ch 3 (counts as dc now and throughout), [bpdc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, dc in last st, change to MC, turn. – 2 dc,  9 fpdc, 9 bpdc

Just Finished the Pattern Repeat

Rows 10-16: Rep Rows 4-9 once.

Edge

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in sc in same st, sc in each st across until 1 st remains, 3 sc in last st, working over row ends evenly sc across to beg ch, 3 sc in last st, working in unused loops of beg ch, sc in each chain across, 3 sc in last st, working over row end evenly sc across, 2 sc in last st, sl st to beg sc, fasten off.

Weave in ends, block. (see tips here)

Tunisian in the Round- Free Pattern

To help you celebrate National Crochet Month, I am sharing a technique to help advance your crochet skills, and including a free pattern. Today I am sharing how to work Tunisian Crochet in the Round.

First, I would like to thank Crochetville for including me in they blog tour for this month long celebration. Everyday you are introduced to a new designer, or hobbyist or teacher, to help inspire a new desire of crochet within you. Don’t miss a day, check out the participants here.

What Makes this Special

Tunisian crochet is an interesting technique that produces a fabric that can look woven, or even knitted. It is worked with in a two-step process. The first step is to load up the hook with loops (Forward Pass), like casting on in knitting, the second step is working all the loops off until only one remains (Return Pass).

Here is One Option

This back and for of the two-steps, actually can make it a bit challenging to work the fabric in the round, so often it is worked flat and then seamed. However, there are a couple of different approaches to working in the round. One is to work with a double ended crochet hook, so you can load from one end and work off the loops with the other. This process works the piece in a spiral and two strands of yarn, it looks nice, but finding double ended hooks is not exactly an easy task.

The Option I like

The method I employ more is one that I discovered from Jennifer Hanson, the Stitch Diva. It is a Tunisian Loop Return Pass. It involves using a cabled Tunisian hook, and adding joining loops to the fabric while working the Return Pass. I have tweaked it a bit from what Jennifer has in her video, as it works for me. So let me share my tweaked version.

How to Make it Work

After you have completed the Forward Pass of a Round, fold the cable of the hook so that the end is next to the hook, the next step for a return pass is to now yarn over and pull through a loop, you will still do this step but you wrap the yarn around the cable as you are yarning over. Basically I have the cable laying adjacent to the hook so that when I yarn over, the yarn is coming over the cable as well, and then I pull through 1 loop.

Include the cable in the yarn over.
Yarn over and pull through 1 loop on hook.

Keeping the cable laying adjacent to the hook still, I now yarn over and pull through 2 loops. At this point I have just added 2 loops to the end of the cable.


Yarn over the cable and hook again, then pull through 2 loops on the hook.
After working the 2 added joining loops to the cable, now work the standard process for a Return Pass of Yo, pull through 2 loops, across until 2 loops from the forward pass, and the 2 added joining loops remain.

Finishing the Join

I now continue the Return Pass, by yarning over and pulling through 2 loops without working over the cable until 2 loop from the Forward Pass and the 2 added loops remain, (this will be 4 loops on the hook). Yarn over and pull through the last 4 loops.

2 loops of the Return Pass, and the 2 added joining loops
Push the added joining loops up the cable and onto the hook. Yarn over and pull through all loops.
First Round is joined.

Work all subsequent round this way, and the fabric with be joined.

Yarn over cable and hook before beginning the Return Pass of every round.

In some of the Tunisian stitches there may be some gapping at the join. I have found this with the Tunisian Full Stitch for example, but overall it is satisfactory to me. In addition as the fabric is joined in the Return Pass, during the very first Round the beginning chain is not joined, so when I weave in the ends, I use this opportunity to close this gap.

The look of the seam after a few rounds.

Tunisian Cup Cozy Pattern

Tunisian Cup Cozy

Materials

Any medium weight yarn

M/N (9 mm) Tunisian cabled crochet hook

Special Stitches

Tunisian Loop Return Pass (TLRP)–  *Bring end of cable to working end of hook, bring working yarn to bottom of hook and in front of cable, loop working yarn under cable to top of hook,** YO, pull through a loop; Rep from * to ** once, YO, pull through 2 loops (2 loops added at end of row); (Yo, pull through 2 loops) until 4 loops remain on hook, YO, pull through 4 loops.

Tunisian Simple Stitch (Tss)Working from right to left, hold working yarn behind work, insert hook under next vertical bar, yarn over and draw up a loop.

Getting Started

Rnd 1: Ch 23, load hook by inserting hook in next ch, YO, pull up a loop across. TLRP. -23 sts

Rnd 2 & 3: Tss in each stitch. TLRP.

Rnd 4: Sc in each st across. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

1 for Me, 1 for You- Mixed Blocks

Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America, by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with you, I just ask that make one for donation.

Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through the United States.

Mixed Blocks Block

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

Corner to Corner

This is a popular technique that while a bit of a challenge to get started is quite addicting once you get it. This technique really allows you to customize the size of any project you want to work it with, you just need to refer to the “increase both side”, “increase one side, decrease one side”, and “decrease both sides” portions and work them until you have a desired size.

Gauge: 7”x9” rectangle

Materials

Medium weight yarn, in 3 colors MC (main color), CC1, CC2

K/10 ½/ 6.5mm hook

Notes

The “blocks” within this block are made up of a chain 3, and 3 double crochet stitches.

Each row creates new blocks, and work in the sides of the adjacent blocks of the previous row.

Since this Block uses three colors, instead of cutting the yarn, carry it along the side of the Block. If you need tips on this check it out here.

Block Pattern

With MC Ch 7

Increase Both Sides

Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch across, turn. – 4 dc (1 block)

Beginning of Row 2, change color and chain 6

Row 2: Change to CC1, ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 chs, sl st to the top of the turning chain of the adjacent dc block, ch 3, working down side of dc stitch of adjacent block work 3 dc, turn. -2 blocks

Row 2, dc in 4th ch from hook, and in next 2 chains.
Slip Stitch to the top of the adjacent block
Work in the side of the adjacent block, change color and chain 6

Row 3: Change to CC2, ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 chs, sl st to the top of the adjacent dc block, [ch 3, working down side of dc stitch of adjacent block work 3 dc, sl st to the top of the adjacent dc block] repeat across, turn. -3 blocks

Working second block of Row 3

Row 4-7: Rep Row 3, changing color every row in the pattern of MC, CC1, CC2, MC. – 7 blocks

Increase One Side, Decrease One Side

Row 8: Change to CC1, ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 chs, sl st to the top of the adjacent dc block, [ch 3, working down side of dc stitch of adjacent block work 3 dc, sl st to the top of the adjacent dc block] repeat across until 1 block remains, leave side of last block unworked, turn. -7 blocks

End of Row 8, do not work in the side of the last block.

Row 9: Change to CC2, sl st across the top of the last 3 dc, sl st to the top of the ch on block, [ch 3, working down side of dc stitch of adjacent block work 3 dc, sl st to the top of the adjacent dc block] repeat across, turn. -7 blocks

Beginning of Row 9, Sl st across the block to begin row, and decrease the side.

Decrease Both Sides

Row 10: Change to MC, sl st across the top of the last 3 dc, sl st to the top of the ch on block, [ch 3, working down side of dc stitch of adjacent block work 3 dc, sl st to the top of the adjacent dc block] repeat across until 1 block remains, leave side of last block unworked, turn. -6 blocks

Beginning of Row 10, sl st across to begin decreasing on both sides
End of Row 10, decreased on both sides.

Rows 11-15: Rep Row 10. -1 block

Fasten off.

End of Row 15. Note the stitch ends at the end of the block, not the corner of the overall Block.

Edge

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in sc in same st, sc in each st across until 1 st remains, 3 sc in last st, working over row ends evenly sc across to beg ch, 3 sc in last st, working in unused loops of beg ch, sc in each chain across, 3 sc in last st, working over row end evenly sc across, 2 sc in last st, sl st to beg sc, fasten off.

Weave in ends, block. (see tips here)