The Basic Crochet Hat

I have been asked to outline a basic pattern for a top down crochet hat several times over the last few weeks, this has resulted in this really basic crochet pattern.

I designed this pattern with baby yarn, so it can easily be adapted for donation hats for those journeying through a cancer diagnosis that might include chemotherapy. Baby yarn is recognized as being soft, and as it is 100% acrylic it is hypo-allergenic.

The pattern is written to address 5 different and popular hat sizes, to use the pattern find the type of hat you want to create, notice the location of the name in the parentheses, as all subsequent rounds of the pattern will relate to this same position. (To make a custom sized hat, check out my basic hat formula here). This hat has a tie at the brim to allow for some adjustment by the user to get a bit of a more custom fit.

Basic Hat

Materials

Lion Brand Baby Soft light weight yarn, (60% acrylic, 40% nylon)

G/6/4mm crochet hook

 

Gauge

10 rounds =4 ½”(11.5cm)

 

Preemie (Baby, Kid, Woman, Man)

Ch 4, sl st to first ch to create ring.

Rnd 1(1, 1, 1, 1): Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 11 dc in center of ring, sl st to top of ch-3. -12 dc

Rnd 2 (2, 2, 2, 2): Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join. -24 dc

Rnd 3 (3, 3, 3, 3): Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] rep around, sl st to join. -36 dc

Rnd 4 (4, 4, 4, 4): Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] rep around, sl st to join. -48 dc

Rnd 5 (5, 5, 5, 5): Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] rep around, sl st to join. -60 dc

Rnd – (6, 6, 6, 6): Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 4 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts] rep around, sl st to join. -72 dc

Rnd – (-, 7, 7, 7): Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 5 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts] rep around, sl st to join. -84 dc

Rnd -(-, -,  8, 8): Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 6 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts] rep around, sl st to join. -96 dc

Rnd – (-, -, -, 9): Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 7 sts, [2dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts] rep around, sl st to join. -108 dc

Rnd 6-11 (7-15, 8-16, 9-16, 10-17): Ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st to join.

Rnd 12(16, 17, 17, 18): Turn, ch 1, sc in same st, ch 1, sk 1 st, [sc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st] rep around, sl st to join, fasten off.

Tie

Create a chain that is 5 inches (13 cm) longer than the circumference of the hat. Weave the chain through he ch-1 spaces, tie into a bow.

Finishing

Weave in all ends.

Get This Gift! The Perfect Kit

Wow! I am excited about this!

This has been a unique undertaking in which I have partnered with Lickin Flames and Mountain Colors Yarn to put together an AWESOME Kit.

I contributed the patterns, both crochet and knit (Brenda Atchison helped a lot with the knit version), for this cute one skein shawl. Lickin Flames added an adorable Shawl Pin, this little black sheep, which works wonders at pinning a shawl while making everyone smile. Mountain Colors contributed the yarn, a skein of Twizzlefoot (a great blend of Superwash Merino and Domestic Wool with silk and nylon), a great sock weight yarn.

This kit features 2 brand new colors from Mountain Colors….Shooting Star and Silver Anniversary, as well as the classic Ruby River.

We released this kit last month exclusively on the wholesale market, getting it in the hands of shop owners, so that anyone needing a holiday gift would find the perfect kit for their loved one…either the knitter or crocheter.

It is FINALLY available for direct sale, so you can get your own kit! Or one for a loved one!

This really is a great kit. The colors of the yarn or FABULOUS…not to mention that the yarn is pretty great too….and the Shawl pin is really adorable…I think you will like it. The pattern, okay, well I always have a hard time talking about my work…but those that have already worked it tell me that they LOVE it…That makes me feel good.

I have never had something put together in such a way as to allow everyone contributing really shine. It was fun to work on the collaboration, and I hope we can pull off another one in the future. If you are looking for a perfect Christmas gift for your yarn lover, or just looking a gift for yourself, please consider checking out the Cooperation Shawl.

 

Deborah’s Diamond Square

Thank you for joining me for my Moogly CAL Square! As a time of year of giving thanks, I am very thankful to be invited to participate in the project, and I hope you enjoy my contribution as the last square for the year.

If you are unfamiliar with The Moogly Yearly Afghan CAL, you can learn more about this project, learning a new 12″ square every 2 weeks, here at Mooglyblog.com.

I tend to like a little different angle in my squares, hence to rotation to create a diamond in the center. This square changes colors every round, but you can create it in many different color configurations. As for the name of this square, Deborah is a long time student, and supporter of my crochet career. She makes a point of sharing her love of baking with all the other students at the weekly crochet classes I teach at my local yarn store, and is always encouraging to everyone. So the name is another sign of thanks.

Deborah’s Diamond Square   by: Linda Dean

Small Shells create a center diamond that is framed in color, having a modern feel with classic charm.

Finished Size: 12”x 12”

Materials List:

  • J/10/6.00mm size crochet hook
  • Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice medium weight 100% Acrylic yarn (3.5oz/100g/170yds): 1 skein each color: (A) #123 Beige, (B) #134 Terracotta, (C) #133 Brick, (D) #172 Kelly Green
  • Tapestry needle

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

dc: double crochet

hdc: half double crochet

sk: skip

sp(s): space(s)

st(s): stitch(es)

YO: yarn over

Rnd 1: With color A, ch 4, sl st to first ch forming a ring, ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 dc in ring, hdc in ring, [hdc, 2 dc, hdc] in ring three times, sl st to join, fasten off. -8 hdc, 8 dc

Rnd 2: With color B join to last st of Round 1, ch 3 (counts as dc) 5 dc in same st as join, sk 1 st, sc in next dc, sk 1 st, [6 dc in next hdc, sk 1 st, sc in next dc] three times, sl st to join, fasten off. – 4 sc, 24 dc

Rnd 3: With color C, join to any sc, ch 3 (counts as dc), 10 dc in the same st, sk 2 dc, sc in next 2 dc sts, sk next 2 dc, [11 dc in next sc, sk 2 dc, sc in next 2 dc, sk next 2 dc] three times, sl st to join, fasten off. -8 sc, 44 dc

Rnd 4: With color D, join to last st of Round 3, ch 3 (counts as dc), 5 dc in same st as ch, 6 dc in next sc, sk 4 sts, sc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st, [6 dc in next 2 sc, sk 4 sts, sc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] three times, sl st to second to the last st join, fasten off. -8sc, 48 dc

Rnd 5: With color A join in any ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in next 6 sts, [hdc in next st, ch 1, hdc in next st, sc in next 13 sts] three times, hdc in next st, ch 1, hdc in next st, sc in remaining 6 sts, sl st to join, fasten off. – 52 sc, 8 hdc

Rnd 6: With color B, join in any ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), hdc in same sp, sc in each st across to ch-1 sp, [(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, sc in each st across] three times, sl st to join, fasten off. –60 sc, 8 hdc

Rnd 7: With color C, join in any ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), hdc in same sp, sc in each st across to ch-1 sp, [(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, sc in each st across] three times, sl st to join, fasten off. –68 sc, 8 hdc

Rnd 8: With color D, join in any ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), hdc in same sp, sc in each st across to ch-1 sp, [(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next ch-1 sp, sc in each st across] three times, sl st to join, fasten off. –76 sc, 8 hdc

Rnd 9: With color A, join to any ch-1 sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in same sp, sk hdc, [sk 1 st, 3 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sc in next st] five times, *(sc, ch 1, sc) in ch-1 sp, sk hdc, [sk 1 st, 3 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sc in next st] five times; rep from * around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 28 sc, 60 dc

Rnd 10: With color B, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), hdc in same sp, sk sc and 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc, [sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc] across to ch-1 sp, *(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, sk sc and 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc, [ sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc] across to ch-1 sp; rep from * around, sl st to join, fasten off. -8 hdc, 28 sc, 60 dc

Rnd 11: With color C, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), dc in same sp, hdc in next hdc, [3 dc in next sc, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc] across, hdc in hdc *(dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, hdc in next hdc, [3 dc in next sc, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc] across, hdc in hdc; rep from * around, sl st to join, fasten off. -8 hdc, 20 sc, 68 dc

Rnd 12: With color D, join to any ch-1 sp,  ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1) dc in same sp, hdc in next dc, hdc in next hdc, [sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc] across, hdc in next hdc, hdc in next dc, *(dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, hdc in next dc, hdc in next hdc, [sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in next sc] across, hdc in next hdc, hdc in next dc; rep from * around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 16 hdc, 20 sc, 68 dc

Rnd 13: With Color A, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), hdc in same sp, sc in each st across, *(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, sc in each st across; rep from * around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 hdc, 104 sc

Rnd 14: With Color B, join ot any ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1) sc in each st across, *(hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch-1 sp, sc in each st across; rep from * around, sl st to join, fasten off. -8 hdc, 112 sc

Weave in ends, block if desired.

Corded Edges-A Great Finish

Often times it is the small details that can really cause your crochet work to shine. One of those details can be found in the edging.

There are many times that I finish off a piece of fabric with a Reverse Single Crochet stitch, also known by the name “Crab Stitch”, but in my time teaching I have found that this stitch can be a bit to trying for some students. It requires a good sense of adjusting your yarns tension and working in the opposite direction (I discuss how to work the stitch here). However there is another stitch, The Corded Edge stitch.

The Corded Edge stitch looks very similar to the Reverse Single Crochet, but is easier to work. It is not quite a stitch as much as a technique that creates a braided or cabled look. It is worked in the last row of the fabric and is worked by rotating the two loops on the hook 360 degrees, and then finish the stitch.

Unlike a Reverse Single crochet, this technique can be used with any stitch. Below I have demonstrated this technique with a Corded Single Crochet and a Corded Double Crochet stitch.

To work a Corded Single crochet, you begin a single crochet just as you always do: Insert hook in indicated stitch, Yarn over and pull through a loop. Now with 2 loops on your hook, you rotate your hook 360 degrees. It is not crucial as to which direction you make this turn as long as you are consistent with each stitch. There is a slight difference in the appearance depending which way you rotate, so sample each and see which you prefer. I typically rotate in the direction it feels most comfortable for my hand to work.

Now you yarn over and pull through the 2 twisted loops on your hook. This completes the stitch, and you repeat it in the next stitch.

To work this technique as a Corded Double Crochet, you begin the Double crochet as normal: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, Yarn over, pull through a loop, Yarn over, pull through 2 loops. Now with the last 2 loops on the hook you rotate your hook 360 degrees, yarn over and pull through the 2 twisted loops.

It is pretty simple, yet results in an edge that is very finished.

Brittany Hooks-My New Go-To

I learned something new and realized I was wrong. Yes, I can admit when I am wrong…even if I have friends and family that may not believe that statement…For years I have believed that for me there has been a difference between in-line and taper hooks. Some people refer to this as the debate between Susan Bates and Boye hooks, as they are the most popular brands.

left to right: Boye, Susan Bates, Brittany; all size K, 10 1/2, 6.5mm

To simplify the arguments, the inline hooks are like simple tubes with slits at the throat of the hook, while tapers taper down at the throat and enlarge at the head. I thought that it was this that made the difference in how I crocheted, but testing out some Brittany Crochet hooks, as showed me I have been wrong all these years.

Brittany hooks are inline hooks, and I offered to test them out primarily because I realized that the world is small. In small I mean, that I met the owner of Brittany hooks at a trade show in the Midwest, only to realize in our discussions that we actually went to high school together, a couple of years apart, in my home town in Northern California; that he actually hung out with my cousin throughout school and that we had many mutual friends.

I offered to test out the hooks, as a feeling of this small world companionship, I didn’t realize that I would learn something new and find a great hook in the process. Brittany was happy to have my feedback on my experience with their product, as they want to ensure that they are offering the best hooks on the market.

What I learned was that for me it really is not the shaft of the throat that effects my crochet, it is the length of the hook.

I use a knife hold when holding my hook, meaning that I hold it the same as if I were holding a knife to chop. I hadn’t really realized it before but the Susan Bates hooks are shorter than the Boye hooks as a result they do not extend past my hand, but instead rest just at the edge of my little finger. When using the Brittany, they had more length than a Bates, and that made all the difference. I found no difficulty in creating the stitches, and I have put these hooks through some test, creating a couple of sweaters and shawls.

The Brittany hooks were very comfortable to use, not to mention very handsome. They are actually all created by wood sourced in the United States, ensuring that they wood is sustainably harvested. All the hooks are made by a single family, and in a small town along the northern coast of California. My understanding is that this company grew out of a bit of a challenge; that challenge being creating a knitting needle from a single piece of wood.  This should not really seem like a challenge, as we have all seen wooden knitting needles before, however these are typically constructed in two pieces; a turned shaft and a stopper at the top. Brittany is actually all turned as one piece. The turning of the shaft is then adjusted to turn a beautiful ending edge. For the crochet hooks there is one other step, which is cutting in the throat.

While a machine might turn the lathe, the human hand is evident throughout the hook. Each one is lovingly created and hand finished. The family is dedicated to making a quality product while working by their family values of supporting the environment and their community. It began with a father over 40 years ago and is continued with the son working to support his growing family today.

However that thing I find most amazing is how reasonably priced the hooks are. I have found them on-line and in some small local yarn stores for under $10. For a hand worked hook….that is crazy reasonable. Couple with that, that they have an amazing product guarantee…if your hook is damaged in 5 years of purchase, they will replace it, no questions asked. That is beyond reasonable.

This makes it a very practical gift to yourself or someone you care for that stitches. I definitely recommend Brittany hooks, and am glad that I decided to give this hook a chance….I learned something new about my stitching as well as found my new go-to hook.