Moorish Tiles Square- Moogly CAL 2020

I love starting off the year with the Moogly CAL! It is a great year long project that makes new squares every two weeks. By the end of the year, you have an afghan. It is always a fun project with many inspirational squares.

I am fortunate enough to share my square with you. To check out all the others make sure and follow along here.

This square uses a stitch often called a Catherine Wheel. Essentially it is a row of decrease, and a row of large shell worked in the center of the decrease. This makes a circle in the fabric. Learn more about this technique with my free charity square, 1 for Me, 1 For You- Rolling Along.

I have been playing with this stitch a bit lately. Taking a liking to working a contrasting color row between the “circles”, I have also found that by working slip stitches where this classic stitch works single crochets, creates a bit of a tighter fabric. This is beneficial, as sometimes this stitch technique can become a bit open and “gappy” at the edges of the circles.

The name really came from how the design struck me. It has reminded me of the mosaics I have seen in art books, and inspires me to want to travel.

Moorish Tiles Square

Materials

*Red Heart With Love, #1542 Aubergine (A), #1207 Cornsilk (B), #1562 Jadeite (C), #1001 White (D), #1623, Mallard (E)

*Hook J/10/ 6.00mm

Gauge

12”x 12” square (30.5 x 30.5cm)

Special Stitches

Double Crochet 6 Together (dc6tog): Working over the next 6 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] six times, yo, pull through all 7 loops on hook.

Double Crochet 7 Together (dc7tog): Working over the next 7 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] seven times, yo, pull through all 8 loops on hook.

Double Crochet 9 Together (dc9tog): Working over the next 9 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] nine times, yo, pull through all 10 loops on hook.

Notes/Tips

Single crochet stitches are worked over slip stitches, this may be up to 3 rows, creating a break in color.

When working the last round, work the single crochet stitches into the chain stitches and not the space (with the exception of the corners), so as not to create open gaps.

Learn how to work a Standing Single Crochet here.

The Pattern

Rnd1: With A, ch 4, sl st to first ch to create ring, (ch 5 counts as dc + ch 2, [2 dc, sl st, 2 dc, ch 2] three times, 2 dc, sl st, dc, sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch) in the ring. Fasten off. -16 dc, 4 sl st, 4 ch-2 sps

First Round with Single Crochet over Slip Stitches

Rnd 2: With B, join with a standing sc in any ch-2 sp see notes to work a Standing Single Crochet, ch 2, sc in same sp, [sc in next 2 dc, sc over sl st  in ring, sc in next 2 dc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp] three times, sc in next 2 dc, sc over sl st in ring, sc in next 2 dc, join. Fasten off. -28 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 3: With C, join with a sl st in any ch-2 sp, ch 2, sl st in same sp, [ch 3, dc7tog, ch 3, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in ch-2 sp] three times, ch 3, dc7tog, ch 3, join in ch-2 sp. -4 dc7tog, 8 sl sts, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 4: ch 2, sl st in same sp, [9 dc in center dc7tog, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in ch-2 sp] three times, 9 dc in center dc7tog, join. Fasten off. -36 dc, 8 sl st, 4 ch-2 sps

Second Round with Single Crochet over Slip Stitches

Rnd 5: With D, join with a standing sc in any ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in same sp, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, [sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below] three times, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, join. Fasten off. – 52 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 6: With E, join to any ch-2 sp, ch 5 counts as dc + ch 2, dc in same sp, [ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp] three times, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, join to 3rd ch.  – 8 dc6tog, 4 sl st, 4 (dc, ch 2, dc)

Rnd 7: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 2, sl st in same sp, [9 dc in dc6tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in dc6tog, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in next ch-2 sp] three times, 9 dc in dcs6tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in dc6tog, join. Fasten off. -72 dc, 12 sl st, 4 ch-2 sps

Third Round with Single Crochet over Slip Stitches

Rnd 8: With B, join with a standing sc in any ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in same sp, [sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into st 3 rows below, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp] three times, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into st 3 rows below, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, join. Fasten off. -92 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 9: With A, join in any ch-2 sp, ch 5 counts as dc + ch 2, dc in same sp, [ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp ] three times, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, so 1st in next st, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, join to 3rd ch. – 4 dc9tog, 8 dc6tog, 8 sl sts, 4 (dc, ch 2, dc)

Rnd10: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 2, sl st in same st, [9 dc in dc6tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in dc6tog, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in ch-2 sp] three times, 9 dc in dc6tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in dc6tog, join. Fasten off. – 108 dc, 16 sl sts, 4 ch-2 sps

Fourth Round with Single Crochet over Slip Stitches

Rnd 11: With D, join with a standing sc in any ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in same sp, {sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, [sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into st 3 rows below] twice, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp} three times, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below [ sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into st 3 rows below] twice, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, join. Fasten off. -132 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

Row 12: With C, join to any ch-2 sp, ch 5 counts as dc + ch 2, dc in same sp, {ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp) three times, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, join to 3rd ch. -8 dc9tog, 8 dc6tog, 12 sl sts, 4 (dc, ch 2, dc)

Last Round, Work in Chains, and Single Crochet over Slip Stitches

Row 13: See notes. Ch 1, sc in same st, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each st and ch across to next ch-2 sp] three times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-2 sp, sc in each st and ch across to last st, join. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block. -140 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

Make It For Me- Italian Spy Handbag

I am so excited to be participating in the Make it for Me with ELK Studio (for all the designs check it out here!). This year I have been inspired to create the Italian Spy Handbag as a Free pattern.

This handbag was inspired by a conversation with a friend that happens to be a fashion designer. She was discussing a crochet fabric with me, and I was discussing shapes with her. The further we went along in the discussion, I had a vision of the perfect small handbag I needed for day trips to the city.

Italian Spy Handbag

For me, a day in the city is San Francisco. I always want to travel with only the essentials, as there is a lot of walking….much more then I typically do in an average day.

So, I want a handbag that can carry the essentials, not weigh a lot, and one that I can comfortably keep close. The Italian Spy fits that build.

It is a simple pattern that uses less then one skein, and utilizes a simple tight stitch. But, just because it is worked in single crochet do not under estimate the overall effect of the fabric, or how it can easily show your mistakes. The pattern is worked in one piece, and then folded and seamed. There is an option to stiffen the sides and bottom, and options for the finishing edge.

I hope you give it a try for you prefect day out handbag. Enjoy.

Italian Spy Handbag

Italian Spy Handbag

Finished Size

10”x7”x2”

Materials

Hook: F/5/3.75mm

Manos del Uruguay Milo light weight 65% Merino wool, 35% linen yarn, (380yrd/350 m/3.5 oz/100 g) 1 skein, colorway #2607 Boreal

  • 1” Button
  • 24” handle

Gauge

Gauge 22 sts/ 25 rows=4”

Front

Ch 50

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -49sc

Row 2-42: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 43: Ch 1, sc in each st across, ch 42, fasten off.

Sides Worked with Body

Row 44: Join with slip stitch to Row 43 at first st of row (opposite end of end just fastened off), ch 43, turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, sc in each sc across, and sc in each ch, turn. -133sc

Row 45-55: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off at the end of Row 55.

Back

Row 56: Skipping 42 sts, join to next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 48 sts, turn. -49sc

Row 57-100: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Flap

Row 101: DO NOT CH, sc2tog, sc until 2 sts rem, sc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. -47sc, (2) sc2tog

Row 102-120: Rep Row 101. -7sc, (2) sc2tog

Row 121: Buttonhole Row, DO NOT CH, sc2tog, sc in next st, ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in next st, sc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. –(1) ch-3 sp, 2sc, (2) sc2tog

Row 122-123: Rep row 101. Fasten off at the end of Row 123. -1sc, (2) sc2tog

Optional Insert (to create more stiffness)

Ch 132

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -131sc

Row 2-10: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off at the end of Row 10.

Optional Assembly of Insert

Lay Insert section over the Sides Worked with Body Portion, Seam the insert to the Sides over Body in any preferred method, such as whip stitch with a needle or slip stitch with a crochet hook. For even more stiffening, you can place a strip of plastic or cardboard that measure 1” x 25”, and place it between the Insert and Side worked with Body

Assembly

Fold Front and Back toward each other, and Fold Sides toward Front and Back, seam side of Side to Front, and seam side of Side to Back, on each side of the handbag.

Working over seamed edges, and all unfinished edges, work Reverse Single Crochet or Corded Edge Stitch around to finish.

Sew button on Front to align with Button Hole of Flap.

Sew Handles to Sides.

If Flap is curling, use an iron to seam if flat.

1 for Me, 1 for You- Rolling Along Block

Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America, by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with you, I just ask that make one for donation.

Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through the United States.

Rolling Along Block

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

Rolling Along Block

Working the Catherine’s Wheel

Catherine’s Wheel is a classic crochet stitch that works one row of shells over a row of decreases to create a circle or wheel look. I have made a couple of changes to the classic pattern. For starters instead of working a single crochet after completing the shell or decrease, I work a slip stitch. I find that this help prevent “gapping” that occurs in the chain 3 area.

Working a dc9tog, you will have 10 loops on the hook.
Yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook.
Slip stitch worked after the chain 3, to secure the decrease.
Working a decrease on the corner, dc5tog.

I should also point out that I work the shells in “the center of the decrease”, this is the biggest opening. However it is really not the completion of the decrease stitch, but the third chain. I feel that working here emphasizes the “center”, when working in the actual point of completion just looks a bit wonky.

Work the Shell in the center of the decrease, it creates a “hole”.
Working a shell at the beginning of a row means working in the center of the decrease.

I do have an exception to this, and that is when finishing a row with a shell it needs to be worked in the top of the turning chain to keep the edge straight. This will be just over from the “center”.

The “exception” the last shell is worked in the top of the turning chain, this helps to keep a straight edge.

Gauge

7”x9” rectangle

Materials

Medium weight yarn, in 2 colors MC (main color), CC1

K/10 ½/6.5mm crochet hook

Special Stitches

Double crochet 4 together (dc4tog): Working over the next 4 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] six times, yo, pull through all 5 loops on hook.

Double crochet 5 together (dc5tog): Working over the next 5 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] six times, yo, pull through all 6 loops on hook.

Double crochet 9 together (dc9tog): Working over the next 9 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] six times, yo, pull through all 10 loops on hook.

Note:

Change colors without fastening off the yarn. Instead carry the yarn along the edge, and it will be hidden in the edging round. Here are some tips for do it.

The Pattern

With MC Chain 25

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, [sk 3 chs, 9 dc in next ch, sk 3 chs, sc in next ch] three times, change to CC1, turn. –(3) 9 dc shells, 5 sc

Row 2: Ch 3, dc4tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc5tog, turn. – (2) dc9tog, (1) dc4tog, (1) dcs5tog

Row 3: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 5 dc in top of turning ch-3, change to MC, turn. (2) 9 dc shells, (2) 5 dc shells

Row 4: Ch 1, sl st in same st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in last st, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sl st in same st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in last st, change to CC1, turn.

Row 6-13: Rep Rows 2-5 twice.

Row 14: Rep Row 2. Fasten off.

Edging

With color MC, sc in each st across, 3 sc in corner, work evenly sc around block working 3 sc in each corner. Finish off.

1 for Me, 1 for You- Dancing Stripes Block

Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America, by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with you, I just ask that make one for donation.

Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through the United States.

Dancing Stripes Block

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

Tunisian Crochet

This block is used working Tunisian Crochet. Tunisian Crochet is essentially inserting your hook through your fabric and pulling up a loop, and leaving the loop on the hook, pulling up loops across the row. Then a “return pass” is worked to work each loop off the hook. This creates a fabric that has a similar look to weaving, yet has the same structural characteristics as crochet. There are many different stitches in this technique, but in this block I only use one stitch, the Tunisian Simple stitch. Learn the stitch here.

Changing color on every forward and return pass, creates a dramatic effect. Utilizing only three colors means that I have a color waiting for me when I finish a row and I know exactly which yarn to work next.

Gauge: 7”x9” rectangle

Materials

Medium weight yarn, in 3 colors MC (main color), CC1, CC2

9 mm Tunisian Crochet hook

Special Stitches

Tunisian Simple Stitch (tss): Insert hook from right to left under next vertical bar, YO, pull up a loop.

Return Pass (RP) :  YO and pull through 1 loop, [YO and pull through 2 loops] across, until 2 loops remain on hook, using new color for next row’s FP,  YO and pull through last 2 loops.

The Pattern

With MC Chain 19

Row 1: With color MC, pull up a loop in second ch from the hook and in each ch across. Switch to color CC1, RP. 19 sts

Row 2: With color CC2, tss across, switch to color MC, RP.

Row 3: With color CC1, tss across, switch to color CC2, RP.

Row 4: With color MC, tss across, switch to color CC1, RP.

Row 5-19: Rep Rows 2-4 five times.

Edging Rnd: With color CC2, sc in each vertical bar across, 3 sc in corner, work evenly sc around block working 3 sc in each corner. Finish off.

1 for Me, 1 for You- Leaf Spike Block

Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America, by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with you, I just ask that make one for donation.

Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through the United States.

Leaf Spike Block

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

Spike Stitches

This block is used working spike stitches. Spike Stitches are essentially inserting your hook through your fabric and pulling up a loop. This loop is pulled up to the height of the current row to have the stitch finished. This gives a unique ability to create fascinating lines of color. In this block I have worked 5 spiked stitches together to create an affect similar to a leaf.

Gauge: 7”x9” rectangle

Materials

Medium weight yarn, in 2 colors MC (main color), CC1, CC2

K/10 ½/ 6.5mm hook

Special Stitches

Spike Leaf (SL): Insert hook in the 2nd stitch backward from the hook and 1 row below, yo, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook in the 1st stitch backward from the hook and 2 rows below, yo, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook in stitch directly below and 3 rows below, yo, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook in stitch 1 stitch forward from hook and 2 rows below, yo, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook in stitch 2 stitches forward from hook and 1 row below, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 10 loops on hook.

First insertion, yo, pull through loop of Leaf Spike
Second insertion point of Leaf Spike
Third insertion point of Leaf Spike
Fourth insertion point of Leaf Spike
Fifth insertion point of Leaf Spike
Yarn over and pull through all 10 loops on hook. Stitch complete

Notes

Working the first stitch immediately following the Leaf Spike can be a bit tricky, as you need to push the last loops of the LS out of the way.

After pulling up the loop through the stitch immediately following the Leaf Spike, you will need to push the last loop of the Leaf Spike toward the stitch to maneuver the hook into the next stitch.

The Pattern

Row 1: With MC, ch 24, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -23 sc

Rows 2-5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 6: Change to CC, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 sts, LS over next st, sc in next 5 sts, LS over next st, sc in next 5 sts, LS over next st, sc in last 7 sts, change to MC, turn.

Rows 7-11: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 12: Change to CC, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 4 sts, LS over next st, sc in next 5 sts, LS over next st, sc in next 5 sts, LS over next st, sc in last 5 sts, change to MC, turn.

Rows 13-17: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 18: Change to CC, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 6 sts, LS over next st, sc in next 5 sts, LS over next st, sc in next 5 sts, LS over next st, sc in last 3 sts, change to MC, turn.

Row 19-21: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Edging

With CC, evening sc around block working 3 sc in each corner.