Corner to Corner in the Round

Corner to Corner in the round is a great technique that lends itself to a fun look while being a relaxing project. This technique was brought to my attention by one of my students, as she was asking how to create it. After some research I discover it here.

Essentially you are creating the beginning of 4 corner to corner blankets at the same time. You only have to work the increases, and just increase from the one corner of a blanket, to then work the next increase of the next blanket.

The first few rounds can be a bit fiddly, but after that it becomes pretty easy.

Getting Started

To get started you create a chain 7, dc in the 4th chain from the hook, and in each ch across. There will be 4 dc and the turning chain.

First block

Now chain 3, and rotate the little block clockwise if your right handed, counter-clockwise if you are left, so that you work the next 4 double crochet in around the post of the last dc created. Work these 4 double crochets.

Around the post of the last dc created
Block 2

Now 3 bocks

Rotate the blocks again in the same fashion, chain 3, and work 4 dc around the post of the last dc created. You will now have 3 blocks.

3 Blocks

Rotate the blocks one more time, chain 3 and work 3 dc around the last double crochet post created.

4 blocks, the center

The number of stitches changed in the last block because there is no new block to be created in this round, the reason all the previous blocks had 4 double crochets is because the last double crochet created is to be a base for the next block. As there is no new block after the 4th, it only needs 3 stitches.

Now slip stitch to the top of the adjacent square.

4 blocks

In my samples I have changed colors at this point, but you can easily continue with the same yarn.

Round 2

Turn the work like a page of a book, just like you do with your other crochet projects. Chain 6, dc in 4th chain from hook, and in each chain across. Now slip stitch to the opposite corner of the same block in round 1, this is the next corner from the chain.

Making the first block of Round 2
Slip stitch the block in place.

Rotate the blocks again, and chain 3. Work 4 dc in the side of the next block in round 1. Chain 3, and rotate the blocks again, work 3 dc around the post of the last dc made. Slip stitch to the next corner in round 1. This process is repeated for all or Round 2. Slip Stitch to join at the top of the corner of the adjacent block.

Round 2

Round 3 and Beyond

Beginning Round 3 is the same process, turn the work like a page of a book. Chain 6 dc in the 4th chain from the hook, and in each chain across. Now slip stitch to the opposite corner of the same block in round 2, this is the next corner from the chain.

Rotate the blocks again, and chain 3. Work 3 dc in the side of the next block, and skip stitch to the top of the next adjacent block. I refer to this as filling in the blocks, in the rounds after Round 3, there will be more steps, but you work them the same.

Round 3 complete

When you get to the top step, the top step created will be the first side worked into on the next rotation, so after creating a chain 3, work 4 dc in the side of the next block in the round below. Chain 3, and rotate the blocks again, work 3 dc around the post of the last dc made. Slip stitch to the next corner in round 1. This process is repeated for all or Round 3 and all subsequent rounds. Slip Stitch to join at the top of the corner of the adjacent block.

Free Pattern

I have worked up a couple of toddler blankets in this technique. If you would like to work them, I have outlined the yarn and color changes I used below, but I used the pattern technique listed above.

Radiant Rounds Lapghan

Working corner to corner in the round creates a fun and easy blanket. The materials and pattern will make 2 blankets reversing the color orders.

Size: 41” square

Materials

  • Scheepjes Colour Crafter medium weigh 100% Acrylic yarn (100g/3.5oz/300m/328yrds)
    • 5 skeins #1002 Ede (A),
    • 1 skein each:
      • #1123 Roermond (B),
      • #2002 Gent (C),
      • #2004 Brussel (D),
      • #1116 Emmen (E),
      • #1117 Delft (F),
      • #1425 Deventer (G)
  • H/8/5.00mm crochet hook

Pattern

Rnd 1: With A, ch 7, dc in 4th ch from hook, and each ch across, rotate (clockwise if right handed, counter-clockwise if left handed), ch 3, 4 dc around post of last dc created, rotate, ch 3, 4 dc around port of last dc created, rotate, ch 3, 3 dc around post of last dc created, sl st to adjacent block, turn.

Rnd 2: Ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, and each ch across, sl st opposite corner of block below, rotate, [ch 3, 4 dc around post of block below, ch 3, rotate, 3 dc around post of last dc created, sl st to adjacent block] 3 times, ch 3, 3 dc around post of block below, sl st to top of adjacent block, turn.

Rnd 3-42: Ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook, and each ch across, sl st to opposite corner of block below, {rotate, [ch 3, 3 dc around post of stitch below for each step block until top step] across to corner, ch 3, 4 dc around post of stitch in block below, rotate, ch 3, dc in around post of stitch just created, sl st to adjacent block} 2 times, [ch 3, 3 dc around post of stitch below for each step block until top step] across to corner, ch 3, 3 dc around post of stitch in block below, sl st to top of adjacent block, turn.

Fasten off at the end of Rnd 42

Weave in ends, block if desired.

Color Sequence (lapghan 1/ lapghan 2)

  • Rnd 1-2: A
  • Rnds 3-4: B/G
  • Rnds 5-6: A
  • Rnd 7-8: C/F
  • Rnds 9-10: A
  • Rnds 11-12: D/E
  • Rnd 13-14: A
  • Rnds 15-16: E/D
  • Rnds 17-18: A
  • Rnd 19-20: F/C
  • Rnds 21-22: A
  • Rnds 23-24: G/B
  • Rnd 25-26: A
  • Rnds 27-28: G/B
  • Rnds 29-30: A
  • Rnd 31-32: F/C
  • Rnds 33-34: A
  • Rnds 35-36: E/D
  • Rnd 37: A
  • Rnds 38: D/E
  • Rnds 39: A
  • Rnd 40: C/F
  • Rnds 41: A
  • Rnds 42: B/G

Jan’s Joy-Full Jamboree Block- Moogly CAL 2023

Wow! I am so excited to join you for another year of the Moogly CAL (check out all the squares here). This year my block has a few ends to weave in, and it uses more back post stitches than some may be accustom to. However I am happy with the results and I hope you like it too.

This block features texture work more than actual color work. Meaning if you want to work this block in only one color it will still be just as dramatic. Back Post Stitches are utilized as it really helps to add a great amount of textural and visual interest. The result of the stitch creates an raised affect that can be reminiscent of surface crochet. Tops of the stitches below become highlighted, adding the “chain” look on the surface of the fabric.

Jan’s Joy-Full Jamboree Block

Much of the remaining texture comes form working cluster stitches in places below the actual working round. I really love how this breaks up the visual rounds of the fabric and help add a continuous lines of texture. They almost act as “links” helping the eye dance along various “features”.

The block is named for two of my long time students, Jan and Joy. Both have had a trying year, yet crochet has continued to be an outlet. As many of us already realize crochet can be our therapy, just the movement of our hands help our mind. Fortunately it can do even more, by bringing people together. I look forward to seeing them at our weekly jamboree and helping them on their crochet journeys.

If you want to follow my journey in crochet, join my monthly newsletter, or join me in a class at various places around the United States.

Jan’s Joy-Full Jamboree Block

Materials

  • Red Heart With Love medium weight 100% acrylic yarn colors: (A) #1907 Boy
  • senberry, (B) #1702 Blush, (C) #1623 Mallard, (D) #1207 Cornsilk
  • J/10/6.00mm

Special Stitches

Treble Crochet 3 Cluster (tr3CL): Yo twice, insert hook into indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo twice, insert hook into same st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo twice, insert hook into same st, yo pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops.

Treble Crochet 2 Together (tr2tog): Yo twice, insert hook into the first indicated stitch, yo pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo twice, insert hook into the next stitch indicated, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo, pull through all 3 loops.

Abbreviations

If you do not feel comfortable with standing stitches, they can be substituted by simply slip stitching to the indicated stitch, and creating a chain equivalent to the turning chain for the indicated stitch type. But if you want to learn about them, I offer a photo tutorial here. And Moogly offers a video here.

Pattern for this block of the Moogly CAL

Rnd 1: With A, Ch 5, dc in 5th ch from hook, ch 1 (dc in same st, ch 1) 6 times, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 dc, 8 ch-1 sps

Rnd 2: With B, join to any dc with a ssc, 3fpdc in same dc, (sc, 3 fpdc in each dc around, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 sc, 24 fpdc

Rnd 2, work 3 front post double crochets around the same stitch

Rnd 3: With C, join to any sc with a shdc, ch 2, hdc in same st, ch 1, [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next sc, ch 1] around, sl st to join. – 8 (hdc, ch 2, hdc), 8 ch-1 sps

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same sp, 5 dc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next hdc, ch 1, [sc in next hdc, 5 dc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next hdc, ch 1] rep around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 (5 dc shells), 8 ch-1 sps

Finished Round 3, and beginning of Round 4

We work our first Clusters in this Moogly CAL

Rnd 5: With D, join with a sbpdc to the first dc of any 5-dc shell, bpdc in the next 4 dc sts, ch 1, tr3CL in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (in Rnd 3), ch 1, [bpdc in each dc on next shell, ch 1, tr3CL in the ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (in Rnd 3), ch 1,] around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 tr3CL, 40 bpdc, 16 ch-1 sps

Working Rnd 5, the tr3CL works around the ch-1 sp in Rnd 3
Finished the tr3CL and started the next bpdc

Rnd 6: With A, join with a ssc to a bpdc just before a tr3Cl, [tr2tog in the next sc 2 rows below (Rnd 4) and in the next sc 2 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), sc in each bpdc] around, sl st to join. –8 tr2tod, 40 sc, 

First insertion point for the tr2tog worked in rnd 4
Second insertion point for the tr2tog
The tr2tog

Rnd 7:  Sl st in tr2tog st, ch 5, (tr, ch 1) 3 times in same st, tr in same st, ch 1, sk 2 sc, blsc in next sc, [ch, 1 (tr, ch 1) 4 times in next tr2tog, tr in same st, sk 2 sc, ch 1, blsc in next sc] around, ch 1, sl st to 4th ch of ch 5 to join, fasten off. –8 (tr, ch 1) fans, 8 sc

Finished Rnd 7

Back Post stitches create an interesting checker of color

Rnd 8: With B, join with a sbpdc to the 1st tr of any fan, dc in ch-1 sp, bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, 2 bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch- 1 sp, bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, bpdc in next tr, tr3Cl in unused front loop of sc 3 rnds below (Rnd 6), [bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, bpdc innext tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, 2 bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch- 1 sp, bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, bpdc in next tr, tr3Cl in unused front loop of sc 3 rnds below (Rnd 6)] around, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 tr3cl, 48 bpdc, 32 dc

Rnd 8, location of tr3CL in front loop of Rnd 6
Rnd 8 after working the tr3Cl…don’t forget the 2 bpdc at the top of the fan

Lets Start Squaring Things Up

Rnd 9: With C, join with a sdc to any of the 1st bpdc of the center of fan (the 2 bpdc worked in the same st), ch 2, dc in next bpsc (corner made), bpdc in next 4 sts, tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, bpdc in the next 2 sts,tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 4 sts, [dc in next bpdc, ch 2, dc in next bpdc (corner made), bpdc in next 4 sts, tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, bpdc in the next 2 sts,tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 4 sts] 3 times, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 tr2tog, 8 sc

One side of the block! Working rnd 9

Watch the stitch changes, we are flattening out the sides

Rnd 10: With D, join with sdc in any corner ch-2 sp, ch 2, dc in same sp, [bpdc in next 6 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp of corner] 3 times,  bpdc in next 6 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, sl st to join.

Rnd 11: Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 corner, dc in each st across to corner, [(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 corner sp, dc in each st across] around, sl st to join, fasten off. –104 dc (26 dc each side)

On the Home Stretch, the Moogly CAL block is almost done…

Rnd 12: With C, join with shdc in any corner ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in same st, [blhdc in next 7 sts, tr3Cl in the top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9) (note: skip the stitch directly behind the cluster, here and throughout), blhdc in next 10 sts, tr3Cl in top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9), blhdc in next 7 sts, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 corner sp] 3 times, blhdc in next 7 sts, tr3Cl in the top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9), blhdc in next 10 sts, tr3Cl in top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9), blhdc in next 7 sts, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 tr3Cl

Rnd 13: With A, join with ssc in any ch-2 corner, ch 2, sc in same sp, blsc in each st across, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 corner sp, blsc in each st across] around, sl st to join, fasten off. –116 sc (29 sc each side)

Check out all the blocks for this year’s Moogly CAL! This is going to be fun!

Darla’s Daisy Square- Moogly CAL 2022

I feel really honored to be joining the Moogly CAL again this year, and I have decided to crochet my Darla’s Daisy Square! This adventure is a great way to learn new skills and make an afghan over the year. Check out all the blocks here. (Check out Moogly’s version of this square here)

Darla’s Daisy square was inspired by the fact that I needed a bit of cheeriness before the coming Spring. I find that there is no better way to bring in some cheeriness then a square inspired by flowers and bright colors. Granted, Darla is a friend and student that has studied to become a Master Gardener, so I am sure that I can find a few more flowers to brighten up my day.

If you like what you see, please consider signing up for my monthly newsletter and following by crochet journey.

Darla’s Daisy Square

Materials

  • Red Heart With Love, Medium weight 100% acrylic yarn
    • #1207 Cornsilk (A)
    • #1907 Boysenberry (B)
    • #1001 White (C)
    • #1538 Lilac (D)
    • #1562 Jadeite (E)
  • Hook J/10/6.00mm

Gauge: 12”x 12” square (30.5 x 30.5cm)

Notes

The squares starts in the round, then works only 2 sides of the square as rows.

The petals in Round 3 are created by working stitches around a double crochet post, then working a second row of stitches atop those just created, before repeating on a new post stitch.

Pattern

Rnd 1: With A, ch 4, sl st to first ch to form ring (like to start a circle another way? check out interchangeable options), ch 1, (sc, ch 1) eight times in ring, sl st to join, fasten off. -8sc, 8 ch-1 sps

Rnd 2: With B, join to any ch-1 sp (check out joining with a standing double crochet instead), ch 4 (counts as dc +ch 1), dc in same sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp around, sl st to join, fasten off. -16 dc, 8 ch-1 sps

Watch for the back and forth of the petals- crochet the daisy!

Rnd 3: With C, join around the post of any dc, ch 1 (check out joining with a standing single crochet instead), fpsc around post of dc st, (fphdc, fpdc) around same post of dc, ch 3, turn, dc in same st, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, (petal made), turn, [sk 1 dc post, (sc, hdc, dc) around next dc post, ch 3, turn, dc in same st, 2 dc in next 2 sts, (petal made), turn] 7 times, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 petals (consisting of 2 rows each, first row has 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, second row has 6 dc)

Completed “1st Row” of petal, stitches worked around a double crochet post.
Completed “2nd row” of petal…work has been turned.
Start the next petal….

Now we set up some corners on the crochet daisy square

Rnd 4: With D, join to the final st of any petal, ch 6 (counts as dc, and ch-3 sp), dc in same sp (corner made), ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, sk 1 dc, dc in final st of petal, ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, (dc, ch 3, dc) in final st of petal (corner made), [ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, sk 1 dc, dc in final st of petal, ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, (dc, ch 3, dc) in final st of petal (corner made)] 2 times, ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, sk 1 dc, dc in final st of petal, ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, sl st to join. – 4 corners, 8 sc, 16 ch-2 sps, 4 dc on sides (1 dc on each side)

Rnd 5: Ch 3, [(2dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-3 sp of corner, dc in each st and 2 dc in each ch-2 sps across to ch-3 corner sp] 4 times, sl st to join, fasten off. -68 dc, 4 ch-1 sps 

Rnd 6: With A, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in same sp, {[ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] 8 times, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] 8 times, ch 1} three times, sl st to join, fasten off. -40 sc, 36 ch-1 sps

Rnd 7: With C, join to to any ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, ch 1, 2 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp corner, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp corner, [(2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp corner] 2 times, sl st to join, fasten off. -88 dc, 4 ch1 sps

Rnd 8: With B, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in same sp, [ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] 11 times, ch 1, {(sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] 11 times, ch 1} 3 stimes, sl st to join, fasten off. -52 sc, 48 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-3 sps

Only working 2 sides of the crochet daisy square as part of the Moogly CAL

Row 9: With A, join to any ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp, fasten off. – 56 dc, 1 ch-1 sp

Row 10: With E, join first st of Row 9, ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 13 times, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 14 times, fasten off. -30 sc, 28 ch-1 sps, 1 ch 3 sp

Row 11: With B, join to the first ch-1 sp of Row 10, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across, fasten off. -60 dc

Row 12: With C, join to the first st of Row 11, ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 14 times, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 15 times, fasten off. -32 sc, 30 ch-1 sps, 1 ch 3 sp

Row 13: With D, join to the first ch-1 sp of Row 12, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across, fasten off. -64 dc

Row 14: With A, join to the first st of Row 13, ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 15 times, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 16 times, fasten off. -34 sc, 32 ch-1 sps, 1 ch 3 sp

All the way around again- Crochet the Daisy Square for the Moogly CAL

Rnd 15: With E, join to the first ch-1 sp of Row 14, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in next st, working down the end rows 9-14, evenly work 6 dc (to keep a visual pattern work 3 groups of 2 dc), 2 dc in the ch 3 sp of Rnd 8 (this sp will have the end of Row 9 worked in it), 2 dc in each of the ch-1 sps across to ch-3 corner sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 corner sp, 2 dc in each of the ch-1 sps across including the ch-3 sp or round 8 (this sp will also have the first stitches of Row 9), evenly work 6 dc over end of rows 9-14, 2 dc in the same stitch as the join (beginning of Rnd 15), ch 1, join, fasten off. -144 dc, 4 ch-1 sps

Crochet Unspoken Words The Free Pattern

Crochet Unspoken Words, the free pattern. Often I find that crochet can speak emotions when I cannot, and it really does speak from the heart. At times when I am overwhelmed emotionally I can easily find my fingers and hands nimbly moving a hook with yarn to work through my feeling and sharing them with others.

I know that I am not alone in this feeling. Many use crochet for charity and gift giving, however I recently found myself crocheting due to natural disaster.

When I learned my friend lost her home during the Northern California Caldor fire this last August I felt at a loss. My heart was heavy for the undertaking she was facing, so I created an afghan to wrap an eternal hug.

Unspoken Words Throw

Just some pattern insight

I know that many find themselves in similar situations, so I thought I would share the pattern. It is a 2 row repeat just changing the straight edge stitches from single to double crochet, while having the same stitches used at the “valleys” and “peaks” of this ripple pattern. The colors are alternated between three colors, there is no need to cut the yarn, just carry it up the side (learn how here).

Unspoken Words Throw

Finished size: approximately 55”x55”

Materials

  • K/10 1/2 /6.5mm crochet hook
  • Medium Weight yarn in 3 colors, 600 yrds of each color. (Sample created in Plymouth Encore 75% acrylic, 25% wool (100g/3.5oz/200yd) yarn, 3 skeins each of color #848, 1204, 1232)

Special Stitches

Back Loop 3 double crochet together over center (blodc3togcenter)– yo, insert hook into back loop of next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo pull through 2 loops, yo insert hook into top of decrease worked 2 rows below, yo pull up a loop, yo pull through 2, yo, insert hook into back loop of next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull up 2 loop, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Step One: yarn over, insert hook into first back loop
Yarn over, insert hook into top of decrease 2 rows below
Yarn over, insert hook in last back loop
Completed Back Loop 3 double crochet together over center stitch

Abbreviations

  • ch(s)=chain(s)
  • sc= single crochet
  • blodc= back loop double crochet
  • blosc= back loop single crochet
  • blsc2tog= back loop 2 single crochet together
  • bpdc= back post double crochet
  • fpdc= front post double crochet
  • sk= skip
  • st(s)= stitch(es)
  • rep=repeat

Crochet Unspoken Words -the Free Pattern

Row 1: Ch 160, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 6 chs, 3 dc in next ch, sc in next 7 chs, [sk 3 chs, sc in 7 sts, 3 dc in next ch, sc in next 7 sts] rep 8 times, change color, turn.

The (fpdc, bpdc, fpdc) around the next stitch….

The Repeat Begins

Row 2: Ch 2, working back loops, blodc in next st, blodc in next 6 sts, (fpdc, bpdc, fpdc) around next st, blodc in next 7 sts, [blodc3togcenter, blodc in next 7 sts, (fpdc, bpdc, fpdc) around next st, blodc in next 7 sts] rep 8 times, dc2tog, change color, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, blsc2tog, blosc next 6 sts, (fpdc, bpdc, fpdc) around next st, blsc in next 7 sts, [blodc3togcenter, blosc in next 7, (fpdc, bpdc, fpdc) around next st, blsc in next 7 sts] rep 8 times, sc2tog, change color, turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3, changing colors every row, alternating between three colors, until desired length.

Crochet Unspoken Words, the free pattern

Edging for Crochet Unspoken Words free pattern

Worked sc evenly around entire afghan. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Holiday Stashdown-Transmute Cowl

When the weather cools down I know it is time to join the Holiday Stashdown CAL again! This year I am sharing with you, the Transmute Cowl. If you enjoy this block design, check out the Transmute Square Throw for a larger project.

Transmute Cowl

What is the Holiday Stashdown?

Every Monday and Thursday from October 4 through December 16, 2021, a new free crochet pattern is shared by a different designer. Each pattern will be a one-skein project, or a stashbuster/scrappy project, so you can work from your own existing yarn stash to make a great winter holiday gift, decoration, or wrap. If you’d like to go ahead and buy some yarn just for the project, we won’t stop you! We love yarn as much as you do.

We’ve teamed up with 18 wonderful companies – AdKnits, Babé Crochet, BonnieKreger, Brown Sheep Company, Inc., Chetnanigans, EngravingForYou, Eucalan, GurumiSupply, Hooked for Life Publishing, JitterBeanMugs, KnitPal, Knitter’s Relief Balm, Kraemer Yarns, Space Cadet, SweetBrieCreations, TheCrafterWithinUs, Unicorn, and Walnut Farm Designs – to gather 19 amazing prizes for our end-of-CAL giveaway. Don’t forget to enter the giveaway in this post on Underground Crafter by 11:59 p.m. on Friday, December 31, 2021!

How to Join the 2021 Holiday Stashdown

  • You can join in by crocheting the patterns as you have time.
  • Share your progress and post pictures of your finished projects. Tag your projects and posts #CALCentralCrochet and #HolidayStashdownCAL on all social media.
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  • By the end of the CAL, you’ll have up to 22 gifts, decorations, or wrap projects for the winter holidays. 

Visit Underground Crafter to learn more about the prizes, enter the end-of-CAL giveaway, and to get links to each Holiday Stashdown CAL pattern as it is released.

Transmute Cowl

A lacy miter square is highlighted in this 1 skein project! Each square is worked adjacent to the previous, meaning that there is no cutting and joining….so less ends to weave in!

Transmute Cowl

Materials

  • H/5/5.00 crochet hook
  • Berroco Sesame light weight 43% wool, 39% cotton, 9% acrylic, 9% nylon yarn (230yrds/210m/3.5oz/100g) 1 skein #7430 Pickled Ginger

Notes

Ch-1 sp count as stitches when working double crochet 5 together; this stitch is noted as a decrease

First Block

Row 1: Ch 63, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 26 chs, dc5tog over next 5 chs, dc in last 28 sts, turn. -28 dc per side of decrease

Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1, now and throughout), sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, [ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc] 11 times, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 5 sts, dc in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st] 12 times, dc in last st, turn. -12 ch-1 sps per side of decrease

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in ch-1 sp, [dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp] 11 times, dc5tog over next 5 sts, [dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc] 12 times, turn. -24 dc per side of decrease

Continuing the open spaces

Row 4: Ch 4, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, [ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc] 9 times, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 5 sts, dc in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st] 10 times, dc in last st, turn. -10 ch-1 sps per side of decrease

Row 5: Ch 3, dc in ch-1 sp, [dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp] 9 times, dc5tog over next 5 sts, [dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc] 10 times, turn.-20 dc per side of decrease

Row 6: Ch 4, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, [ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc] 7 times, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 5 sts, dc in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st] 8 times, dc in last st, turn. -8 ch-1 sps per side of decrease

Row 7: Ch 3, dc in ch-1 sp, [dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp] 7 times, dc5tog over next 5 sts, [dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc sp] 8 times, turn. -16 dc per side of decrease

Opening up again

Row 8: Ch 4, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, [ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc] 5 times, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 5 sts, dc in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st] 6 times, dc in last st, turn. -6 ch-1 sps per side of decrease

Row 9: Ch 3, dc in ch-1 sp, [dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp] 5 times, dc5tog over next 5 sts, [dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc] 6 times, turn. -12 dc per side of decrease

Row 10: Ch 4, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, [ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc] 3 times, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 5 sts, dc in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st] 4 times, dc in last st, turn. -4 ch-1 sps per side of decrease

Row 11: Ch 3, dc in ch-1 sp, [dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp] 3 times, dc5tog over next 5 sts, [dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc] 4 times, turn. -8 dc per side of decrease

Making some more spaces

Row 12: Ch 4, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 5 sts, dc in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch 1, sk 1 st] 2 times, dc in last st, turn. -2 ch-1 sps per side of decrease

Row 13: Ch 3, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp, dc5tog over next 5 sts, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in dc, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in last st, turn. -4dc per side of decrease

Row 14: Ch 3, dc in next st, sk 5 sts, dc in last 2 sts, turn. -2 dc per side of decrease

Row 15: Ch 2, dc4tog. DO NOT FASTEN OFF.

Transmute Cowl

Next Block

Note:

Row 1 will work down the edge of the chain as well as along the edge of the adjacent block

Row 1:  Ch 33, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 26 chs, dc5tog over next 5 chs (this will consist of last 2 chains, the stitch that the chain is created from and 2 stitches working along the edge of the adjacent block), dc 28 sts evenly across edge, turn. -28 dc per side of decrease

Repeat Rows 2-15 of First block.

Repeat “Next Block” 2 more times, to have 4 completed blocks. Making sure that when working the Row 1 of both Block 3 and 4 that the edge chosen creates an overall rectangle.

Fast off. Seam Block 4 to Block 1. Block if desired.