Overlay Mosaic Crochet- 1 of 3 Methods

Overlay Mosaic Crochet is 1 of 3 mosaic crochet methods that are color work methods that create stunning geometric designs.

The Overlay Mosaic Method has some ready to see benefits, but is also has some draw backs.

Pros

To begin with it uses simple stitches, the entire base of the fabric is created with single crochet worked into the back loop. It creates bands of colors. Working double crochet loops 2 rows below in the unused front loop of the fabric. As a result this causes the color of the double crochet stitch to cover the color the row below. This ensures that the color work looks more difficult to work than it actually is.

Overlay Mosaic Crochet- work single crochet stitches in the back loop.
Overlay Mosaic Crochet, works a double crochet 2 rows below to create the dynamic color work.

Cons

However, this fabric is only worked on the right side, so you never turn. In addition, it is worked with only 1 row of color at a time. The result is a fabric that needs to be joined and fastened off for every row.

The easiest way to deal with the loose ends is to have fringe. Leaving the tails long of both the joining and fastening off. More modern methods have utilized this method in the round, so that the right side is always facing, and the color is carried at the join.

5 Rows of Overlay Mosaic Crochet- note that each row is joined and fastened off, and the fabric is never turned.
Working Row 6 of Overlay Mosaic Crochet

Mosaic crochet historically makes a cycle of popularity. This overlay method classically known for such patterns as Apache Tears and Navajo Indian Blanket.

I have stumbled across a Continuous Overlay Mosaic Crochet Method, put together by Susan Lowman. It is brilliant for creating this fabric in a flat method with far fewer ends to weave in. Make sure sand check out her video here. I like to use Overlay Mosaic for hats and fingerless gloves. I find this approach to be very straight forward and easy to follow. Creating some fun highlights for colors.

Overlay Mosaic patterns in hats

2 Ways -Thermal Crochet

Essentially there are 2 ways to create a thermal crochet stitch. I was first introduced to this technique over a decade ago. “Thermal” is worked one way, and today you can find it worked in a completely different manner. This is proves to me even more, that you cannot rely on the fancy names of crochet stitches, make sure and check the special stitches of a pattern.

However, I thought I would share what I have learned about this stitch. Basically a thermal stitch is one that creates a double sided fabric. Stitches are connected by working through the loops of 2 different rows to create the third.

Bottom Up method of Thermal Single Crochet Fabric
Top Down Method Thermal Single Crochet Fabric

Bottom Up -1 of 2 ways thermal crochet

I learned to connect these stitches from the “bottom up”. Insert the hook through the loop of the row 2 rows below upwardly and then through the front loop of the row typically be worked into. Yarn is wrapped around the hook and then pulled through these 2 loops. There is an additional yarn over, and pull through the last two loops; a single crochet thermal stitch is created. Learn it here.

Inserting hook from the “bottom up” to create the thermal single crochet

The bottom up method creates a fabric that has the “front” or “right” side of the fabric facing outward, while the “back” of the stitch is captured in the center of the fabric.

Top Down -1 of 2 ways thermal crochet

The latest way I have seen this stitch explained, uses the same loops of the stitch rows has the base of the stitch, but instead works the hook down through the front loop of the regular working row and then through the unused loop of the row 2 rows below.

Created from the “top down” method thermal single crochet

To prevent the stitches from twisting, the work is essentially worked “backwards”.  Meaning that you are crocheting the fabric in the opposite direction from that which you usually do. This “top down” method creates a fabric that has the “wrong” of “back” side of the fabric facing outward with the “front” encapsulated in the center.

There are some slight visual differences with these methods, and the Bottom up approach tends to lend itself better to working in the round.

This is an interesting stitch, either way you work it. I am continuing to explore its possibilities.

National Crochet Month- Pawprints on our Hearts

I always look forward to March, otherwise known as National Crochet Month, and participating in the blog tour by Crochetville with this year’s theme “Pawprints on our Hearts”. Make sure and follow along on the tour here.

This theme was a bit difficult for me. I still have a heavy heart from the passing of a pet, the family house rabbit, Storm. He managed to capture my heart in a way that the other pets in the home just haven’t managed. Storm was always nearby as I was working on projects and designs. You might not believe it, he would share his opinion of my work. He was always a critic.

Storm, the house rabbit

Imagine a rabbit that managed to be the dominate pet in the house. Keeping the 80 pound dog and cat in line. Stealing the dog’s bed and chase the cat, and learned to scratch on the refrigerator door to get blueberries. He is missed.

I have always had a soft spot for rabbits, and I am not sure why. I have had a few different bunnies over the years, and their personalities are always so varied. It is so unplanned, how our hearts can just open up to our pets.

BBD (Baby Brown Dog)

As a way of celebrating this love we have for pets with you during National Crochet Month, I am offering my pattern for BBD (Baby Brown Dog) at half price (get it here). This is a toy puppy with weighted feet that hopefully will find a way into your heart.

Repairing a Crochet Granny Square

Repairing a crochet granny square can be an easy fix. Often the center of a granny square is the weakest point. There is a lot of stress with many stitches worked around a small piece of yarn.

To begin this repair, find yarn that matches the damaged area. I find this to be the most difficult part of doing a repair. Often you will not find the exact yarn that was originally used, so try to match these three criteria as close as possible:

  • Color- hue and tone
  • Yarn weight- super fine, fine, light, medium, etc.
  • Fiber content – what is it made of, cotton, wool, synthetic

After finding a yarn, cut a sting about 12” (30cm), and thread a yarn needle.

Begin repairing a crochet granny square

The first step is to pick up all the “feet” of the stitches in the first round. These loops may have a bit of a twist, and that is fine, just ensure that the threaded yarn is worked through even loop at the base of the stitches.

Pick up all the “feet” of the stitches

If stitches are missing in the round, use the threaded yarn to secure loops of remaining stitches to ensure that they do not unravel further. After creating a loop of yarn you can rework the stitches in these missing locations.

Repaired Granny Square

Pull the yarn tightly in the center, and weave the yarn through a second time. Tie the ends of the yarn together to create a knot, and then weave in the ends.

If you want to cut sections out of the granny square, or understand more about stitch structure to fix it, check out “Cutting Crochet“.

Darla’s Daisy Square- Moogly CAL 2022

I feel really honored to be joining the Moogly CAL again this year, and I have decided to crochet my Darla’s Daisy Square! This adventure is a great way to learn new skills and make an afghan over the year. Check out all the blocks here. (Check out Moogly’s version of this square here)

Darla’s Daisy square was inspired by the fact that I needed a bit of cheeriness before the coming Spring. I find that there is no better way to bring in some cheeriness then a square inspired by flowers and bright colors. Granted, Darla is a friend and student that has studied to become a Master Gardener, so I am sure that I can find a few more flowers to brighten up my day.

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Darla’s Daisy Square

Materials

  • Red Heart With Love, Medium weight 100% acrylic yarn
    • #1207 Cornsilk (A)
    • #1907 Boysenberry (B)
    • #1001 White (C)
    • #1538 Lilac (D)
    • #1562 Jadeite (E)
  • Hook J/10/6.00mm

Gauge: 12”x 12” square (30.5 x 30.5cm)

Notes

The squares starts in the round, then works only 2 sides of the square as rows.

The petals in Round 3 are created by working stitches around a double crochet post, then working a second row of stitches atop those just created, before repeating on a new post stitch.

Pattern

Rnd 1: With A, ch 4, sl st to first ch to form ring (like to start a circle another way? check out interchangeable options), ch 1, (sc, ch 1) eight times in ring, sl st to join, fasten off. -8sc, 8 ch-1 sps

Rnd 2: With B, join to any ch-1 sp (check out joining with a standing double crochet instead), ch 4 (counts as dc +ch 1), dc in same sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp around, sl st to join, fasten off. -16 dc, 8 ch-1 sps

Watch for the back and forth of the petals- crochet the daisy!

Rnd 3: With C, join around the post of any dc, ch 1 (check out joining with a standing single crochet instead), fpsc around post of dc st, (fphdc, fpdc) around same post of dc, ch 3, turn, dc in same st, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, (petal made), turn, [sk 1 dc post, (sc, hdc, dc) around next dc post, ch 3, turn, dc in same st, 2 dc in next 2 sts, (petal made), turn] 7 times, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 petals (consisting of 2 rows each, first row has 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, second row has 6 dc)

Completed “1st Row” of petal, stitches worked around a double crochet post.
Completed “2nd row” of petal…work has been turned.
Start the next petal….

Now we set up some corners on the crochet daisy square

Rnd 4: With D, join to the final st of any petal, ch 6 (counts as dc, and ch-3 sp), dc in same sp (corner made), ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, sk 1 dc, dc in final st of petal, ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, (dc, ch 3, dc) in final st of petal (corner made), [ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, sk 1 dc, dc in final st of petal, ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, (dc, ch 3, dc) in final st of petal (corner made)] 2 times, ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, sk 1 dc, dc in final st of petal, ch 2, sc in 4th st of 2nd row of petal, ch 2, sl st to join. – 4 corners, 8 sc, 16 ch-2 sps, 4 dc on sides (1 dc on each side)

Rnd 5: Ch 3, [(2dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-3 sp of corner, dc in each st and 2 dc in each ch-2 sps across to ch-3 corner sp] 4 times, sl st to join, fasten off. -68 dc, 4 ch-1 sps 

Rnd 6: With A, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in same sp, {[ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] 8 times, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] 8 times, ch 1} three times, sl st to join, fasten off. -40 sc, 36 ch-1 sps

Rnd 7: With C, join to to any ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, ch 1, 2 dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp corner, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp corner, [(2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp corner] 2 times, sl st to join, fasten off. -88 dc, 4 ch1 sps

Rnd 8: With B, join to any ch-1 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in same sp, [ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] 11 times, ch 1, {(sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] 11 times, ch 1} 3 stimes, sl st to join, fasten off. -52 sc, 48 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-3 sps

Only working 2 sides of the crochet daisy square as part of the Moogly CAL

Row 9: With A, join to any ch-3 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, 2 dc in next ch-3 sp, fasten off. – 56 dc, 1 ch-1 sp

Row 10: With E, join first st of Row 9, ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 13 times, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 14 times, fasten off. -30 sc, 28 ch-1 sps, 1 ch 3 sp

Row 11: With B, join to the first ch-1 sp of Row 10, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across, fasten off. -60 dc

Row 12: With C, join to the first st of Row 11, ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 14 times, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 15 times, fasten off. -32 sc, 30 ch-1 sps, 1 ch 3 sp

Row 13: With D, join to the first ch-1 sp of Row 12, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across, fasten off. -64 dc

Row 14: With A, join to the first st of Row 13, ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 15 times, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st] 16 times, fasten off. -34 sc, 32 ch-1 sps, 1 ch 3 sp

All the way around again- Crochet the Daisy Square for the Moogly CAL

Rnd 15: With E, join to the first ch-1 sp of Row 14, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across to ch-3 sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 sp, 2 dc in each ch-1 sp across, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in next st, working down the end rows 9-14, evenly work 6 dc (to keep a visual pattern work 3 groups of 2 dc), 2 dc in the ch 3 sp of Rnd 8 (this sp will have the end of Row 9 worked in it), 2 dc in each of the ch-1 sps across to ch-3 corner sp, (2dc, ch 1, 2dc) in ch-3 corner sp, 2 dc in each of the ch-1 sps across including the ch-3 sp or round 8 (this sp will also have the first stitches of Row 9), evenly work 6 dc over end of rows 9-14, 2 dc in the same stitch as the join (beginning of Rnd 15), ch 1, join, fasten off. -144 dc, 4 ch-1 sps