Make It For Me- Italian Spy Handbag

Posted on January 18, 2020 by webmaster

I am so excited to be participating in the Make it for Me with ELK Studio (for all the designs check it out here!). This year I have been inspired to create the Italian Spy Handbag as a Free pattern.

This handbag was inspired by a conversation with a friend that happens to be a fashion designer. She was discussing a crochet fabric with me, and I was discussing shapes with her. The further we went along in the discussion, I had a vision of the perfect small handbag I needed for day trips to the city.

For me, a day in the city is San Francisco. I always want to travel with only the essentials, as there is a lot of walking….much more then I typically do in an average day.

So, I want a handbag that can carry the essentials, not weigh a lot, and one that I can comfortably keep close. The Italian Spy fits that build.

It is a simple pattern that uses less then one skein, and utilizes a simple tight stitch. But, just because it is worked in single crochet do not under estimate the overall effect of the fabric, or how it can easily show your mistakes. The pattern is worked in one piece, and then folded and seamed. There is an option to stiffen the sides and bottom, and options for the finishing edge.

I hope you give it a try for you prefect day out handbag. Enjoy.

Italian Spy Handbag

Finished Size

10”x7”x2”

Materials

Hook: F/5/3.75mm

Manos del Uruguay Milo light weight 65% Merino wool, 35% linen yarn, (380yrd/350 m/3.5 oz/100 g) 1 skein, colorway #2607 Boreal

1” Button
24” handle

Gauge

Gauge 22 sts/ 25 rows=4”

Front

Ch 50

Row 1: sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -49sc

Row 2-42: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 43: Ch 1, sc in each st across, ch 42, fasten off.

Sides Worked with Body

Row 44: Join with slip stitch to Row 43 at first st of row (opposite end of end just fastened off), ch 43, turn, sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, sc in each sc across, and sc in each ch, turn. -133sc

Row 45-55: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off at the end of Row 55.

Back

Row 56: Skipping 42 sts, join to next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 48 sts, turn. -49sc

Row 57-100: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Flap

Row 101: DO NOT CH, sc2tog, sc until 2 sts rem, sc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. -47sc, (2) sc2tog

Row 102-120: Rep Row 101. -7sc, (2) sc2tog

Row 121: Buttonhole Row, DO NOT CH, sc2tog, sc in next st, ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in next st, sc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. –(1) ch-3 sp, 2sc, (2) sc2tog

Row 122-123: Rep row 101. Fasten off at the end of Row 123. -1sc, (2) sc2tog

Optional Insert (to create more stiffness)

Ch 132

Row 1: Sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -131sc

Row 2-10: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off at the end of Row 10.

Optional Assembly of Insert

Lay Insert section over the Sides Worked with Body Portion, Seam the insert to the Sides over Body in any preferred method, such as whip stitch with a needle or slip stitch with a crochet hook. For even more stiffening, you can place a strip of plastic or cardboard that measure 1” x 25”, and place it between the Insert and Side worked with Body

Assembly

Fold Front and Back toward each other, and Fold Sides toward Front and Back, seam side of Side to Front, and seam side of Side to Back, on each side of the handbag.

Working over seamed edges, and all unfinished edges, work Reverse Single Crochet or Corded Edge Stitch around to finish.

Sew button on Front to align with Button Hole of Flap.

Sew Handles to Sides.

If Flap is curling, use an iron to seam if flat.

1 for Me, 1 for You- Rolling Along Block

Posted on January 6, 2020 by webmaster

Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America, by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with you, I just ask that make one for donation.

Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through the United States.

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

Rolling Along Block

Working the Catherine’s Wheel

Catherine’s Wheel is a classic crochet stitch that works one row of shells over a row of decreases to create a circle or wheel look. I have made a couple of changes to the classic pattern. For starters instead of working a single crochet after completing the shell or decrease, I work a slip stitch. I find that this help prevent “gapping” that occurs in the chain 3 area.

Working a dc9tog, you will have 10 loops on the hook.

Yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook.

Slip stitch worked after the chain 3, to secure the decrease.

Working a decrease on the corner, dc5tog.

I should also point out that I work the shells in “the center of the decrease”, this is the biggest opening. However it is really not the completion of the decrease stitch, but the third chain. I feel that working here emphasizes the “center”, when working in the actual point of completion just looks a bit wonky.

Work the Shell in the center of the decrease, it creates a “hole”.

Working a shell at the beginning of a row means working in the center of the decrease.

I do have an exception to this, and that is when finishing a row with a shell it needs to be worked in the top of the turning chain to keep the edge straight. This will be just over from the “center”.

The “exception” the last shell is worked in the top of the turning chain, this helps to keep a straight edge.

Gauge

7”x9” rectangle

Materials

Medium weight yarn, in 2 colors MC (main color), CC1

K/10 ½/6.5mm crochet hook

Special Stitches

Double crochet 4 together (dc4tog): Working over the next 4 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] six times, yo, pull through all 5 loops on hook.

Double crochet 5 together (dc5tog): Working over the next 5 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] six times, yo, pull through all 6 loops on hook.

Double crochet 9 together (dc9tog): Working over the next 9 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] six times, yo, pull through all 10 loops on hook.

Note:

Change colors without fastening off the yarn. Instead carry the yarn along the edge, and it will be hidden in the edging round. Here are some tips for do it.

The Pattern

With MC Chain 25

Row 1: Sc in 2^nd ch from hook, [sk 3 chs, 9 dc in next ch, sk 3 chs, sc in next ch] three times, change to CC1, turn. –(3) 9 dc shells, 5 sc

Row 2: Ch 3, dc4tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc5tog, turn. – (2) dc9tog, (1) dc4tog, (1) dcs5tog

Row 3: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 5 dc in top of turning ch-3, change to MC, turn. (2) 9 dc shells, (2) 5 dc shells

Row 4: Ch 1, sl st in same st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in last st, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sl st in same st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in last st, change to CC1, turn.

Row 6-13: Rep Rows 2-5 twice.

Row 14: Rep Row 2. Fasten off.

Edging

With color MC, sc in each st across, 3 sc in corner, work evenly sc around block working 3 sc in each corner. Finish off.

1 for Me, 1 for You- Dancing Stripes Block

Posted on December 27, 2019 by webmaster

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

Tunisian Crochet

This block is used working Tunisian Crochet. Tunisian Crochet is essentially inserting your hook through your fabric and pulling up a loop, and leaving the loop on the hook, pulling up loops across the row. Then a “return pass” is worked to work each loop off the hook. This creates a fabric that has a similar look to weaving, yet has the same structural characteristics as crochet. There are many different stitches in this technique, but in this block I only use one stitch, the Tunisian Simple stitch. Learn the stitch here.

Changing color on every forward and return pass, creates a dramatic effect. Utilizing only three colors means that I have a color waiting for me when I finish a row and I know exactly which yarn to work next.

Gauge: 7”x9” rectangle

Materials

Medium weight yarn, in 3 colors MC (main color), CC1, CC2

9 mm Tunisian Crochet hook

Special Stitches

Tunisian Simple Stitch (tss): Insert hook from right to left under next vertical bar, YO, pull up a loop.

Return Pass (RP) : YO and pull through 1 loop, [YO and pull through 2 loops] across, until 2 loops remain on hook, using new color for next row’s FP, YO and pull through last 2 loops.

The Pattern

With MC Chain 19

Row 1: With color MC, pull up a loop in second ch from the hook and in each ch across. Switch to color CC1, RP. 19 sts

Row 2: With color CC2, tss across, switch to color MC, RP.

Row 3: With color CC1, tss across, switch to color CC2, RP.

Row 4: With color MC, tss across, switch to color CC1, RP.

Row 5-19: Rep Rows 2-4 five times.

Edging Rnd: With color CC2, sc in each vertical bar across, 3 sc in corner, work evenly sc around block working 3 sc in each corner. Finish off.

1 for Me, 1 for You- Leaf Spike Block

Posted on December 4, 2019 by webmaster

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

Spike Stitches

This block is used working spike stitches. Spike Stitches are essentially inserting your hook through your fabric and pulling up a loop. This loop is pulled up to the height of the current row to have the stitch finished. This gives a unique ability to create fascinating lines of color. In this block I have worked 5 spiked stitches together to create an affect similar to a leaf.

Gauge: 7”x9” rectangle

Materials

Medium weight yarn, in 2 colors MC (main color), CC1, CC2

K/10 ½/ 6.5mm hook

Special Stitches

Spike Leaf (SL): Insert hook in the 2^nd stitch backward from the hook and 1 row below, yo, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook in the 1^st stitch backward from the hook and 2 rows below, yo, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook in stitch directly below and 3 rows below, yo, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook in stitch 1 stitch forward from hook and 2 rows below, yo, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook in stitch 2 stitches forward from hook and 1 row below, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 10 loops on hook.

First insertion, yo, pull through loop of Leaf Spike

Yarn over and pull through all 10 loops on hook. Stitch complete

Notes

Working the first stitch immediately following the Leaf Spike can be a bit tricky, as you need to push the last loops of the LS out of the way.

After pulling up the loop through the stitch immediately following the Leaf Spike, you will need to push the last loop of the Leaf Spike toward the stitch to maneuver the hook into the next stitch.

The Pattern

Row 1: With MC, ch 24, sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -23 sc

Rows 2-5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 6: Change to CC, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 sts, LS over next st, sc in next 5 sts, LS over next st, sc in next 5 sts, LS over next st, sc in last 7 sts, change to MC, turn.

Rows 7-11: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 12: Change to CC, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 4 sts, LS over next st, sc in next 5 sts, LS over next st, sc in next 5 sts, LS over next st, sc in last 5 sts, change to MC, turn.

Rows 13-17: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 18: Change to CC, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 6 sts, LS over next st, sc in next 5 sts, LS over next st, sc in next 5 sts, LS over next st, sc in last 3 sts, change to MC, turn.

Row 19-21: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Edging

With CC, evening sc around block working 3 sc in each corner.

1 for Me, 1 for You- String of Stars Block

Posted on November 11, 2019 by webmaster

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

Star Stitches

This block is used working star stitches. Star stitches are similar to working a decrease over several stitches, but instead of over several stitches it is over various parts of adjacent stitches. Pulling up many loops in many places creates this unique looking stitch, in this block I have you working 2 different types of star stitches. One star is big and full over yarn overs to create a dynamic appearance, while the lighter star is does not have yarn over, and few loops, but creates a great textural effect, and in my opinion looks cute pall stacked upon one another.

Gauge: 7”x9” rectangle

Materials

Medium weight yarn, in 3 colors MC (main color), CC1, CC2

K/10 ½/ 6.5mm hook

Special Stitches

Beginning Full Star (BFS): Yo, insert hook into 2^nd ch from hook, yo, pull through loop, yo insert hook through base (post) of last stain next ch, yo, pull through a loop, yo insert hook into same st as chain, yo, pull through a loop, yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook into next hook, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 11 loops on hook.

Full Star (FS): Yo, insert hook into eye last star made, yo, pull through loop, yo insert hook through base (post) of last star, yo, pull through a loop, yo insert hook into same st as last base (post) of last star, yo, pull through a loop, yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook into next hook, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 11 loops on hook.

Loop placement for the Full Star Stitch (the placement is the same as the Light Star, but a Yarn over is worked between each inserting of the hook).

After pulling through all the loops, you chain 1, this creates an “eye” at the center of the stitch

And the Smaller Star

Beginning Light Star (BLS): Insert hook into 2^nd ch from hook, yo, pull through a loop, insert hook in next ch, yo, pull through a loop, insert hook into same st as chain, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 5 loops.

Light Star (LS): Insert hook into eye of last star made, yo, pull through a loop, insert hook through base (post) of last star, yo, pull through a loop, insert hook into same st as last post of last star, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 5 loops.

Loop placement for the Light Star Stitch.

If you would like to see some more detailed step bu step of the loop location, here is a tutorial for the Light Star Stitch.

Block Pattern

With MC Ch 28

Row 1: Sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -27 sc

Row 2: Change to CC1, ch 3, BFS, ch 1, [FS, ch 1,] 12 times, turn. -13 Full Stars

Row 3: Change to MC, ch 1, 2 sc in same st, sc in each ch and the top of each star across, turn. -27

Single crochet into the top of the Star Stitch, and in the chain space, when working stitches over the Full Star Stitch.

Row 4: Change to CC2, ch 3, BLS, ch 1, [LS, ch 1] 25 times, turn.-26 Light Stars

Row 5: Change to MC, ch 1, 2 sc in same st, sc in each ch-sp across, turn. -27 sc

Only work in the chain space when working the next row on a row of Light Star Stitches

Row 6-13: Rep Rows 2-5 twice.

Edge

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in sc in same st, sc in each st across until 1 st remains, 3 sc in last st, working over row ends evenly sc across to beg ch, 3 sc in last st, working in unused loops of beg ch, sc in each chain across, 3 sc in last st, working over row end evenly sc across, 2 sc in last st, sl st to beg sc, fasten off.

Weave in ends, block. (see tips here)