Short Rows in Crochet

To help you celebrate National Crochet Month, I am sharing a technique to help advance your crochet skills, and including a free pattern. Today I am sharing how to work Short Rows, in both traditional and Tunisian Crochet.

First, I would like to thank Crochetville for including me in they blog tour for this month long celebration. Everyday you are introduced to a new designer, or hobbyist or teacher, to help inspire a new desire of crochet within you. Don’t miss a day, check out the participants here.

There are some terms that can be a bit intimidating the fiber arts, short rows can be one of them. However, they really are quite straight forward.

What Makes it Special

Learning how to work short rows in crochet will help expand crochet skills by adding subtle shaping in garments and the ability to create dramatic effects in just about any work you wish.

A short row is exactly as it sounds, you work your row short. Meaning you do not finish the row.

Sometimes this is worked by tapering the stitch height, by working shorter and shorter stitches until they are near a slip stitch. The work is turned, and possibly started by tapering the stich height upward, it is completed.

Working As A Dart

In the case of using short rows as is seen in sewing as if a dart, or a point in fabric, you work un-worked stitches. The next row works to the point where two rows below the row was worked short, then it continues to the remained of the stitches not worked three rows below.

Making A Wedge…

In the case of making a triangular shape, a multiple of short rows are worked, so that there are fewer stiches in each row. I often use this approach in creating shawls, essentially creating triangular wedges that I then build atop one another.

It is this last approach that I also use to create washcloths and potholders. I create “wedges” of triangles that work on one another to eventually create a circle.

Starting Your Circle

Using any yarn, with a comparable size hook, these patterns are great for scrap yarns. You can adjust the size by adjusting the number of beginning chains as the foundation. Just remember that this is only half the size of the finished product, and you will remove one stitch per row on the same edge of the fabric. It can be used utilizing either traditional crochet or Tunisian, and I share a quick pattern for both below.

Short Row Washcloth/Potholder

Short Row Crochet Washcloth/Potholder- Worked in Wedges

First Wedge

Row 1: Ch 16, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -15 sc

Row 2: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -14 sc

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 12 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -13sc

Row 4: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -12 sc

You Should Start Seeing the “Stair Stepping”

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 10 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -11sc

Row 6: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -10 sc

Don’t work the last stitch, and slip stitch in the first stitch of the next row…removing one stitch in each row on the same edge of the fabric.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 8 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -9sc

Row 8: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -8 sc

Over Halfway on the First Wedge….

Row 9: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 6 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -7sc

Row 10: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -6 sc

Row 11: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 4 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -5sc

Row 12: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc

Almost There…

Row 13: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -3sc

Row 14: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -2 sc

Row 15: Ch 1, sc in same st, turn. -1 sc

Row 16: Sl st in same st, turn.

Second Wedge

Row 17: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in the edge stitch of Rows 15-1 (essentially either the stitch skipped in a row, or the slip stitch after the row is turned), turn. -15 sc

Row 18-32: Rep Rows 2 through 16 of wedge 1.

Wedges 3-8

Repeat Second Wedge.

Seam Wedge 1 to Wedge 8.

Tunisian Short Row Washcloth/Potholder

Short Row Tunisian Crochet Washcloth/Potholder

These same principals apply to Tunisian crochet as well.

First Wedge

Row 1: Ch 15, pick up loops in each ch across. RP. -15 sts

Row 2: Tss in next 13 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -14 tss

Row 3: Tss in next 12 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -13 tss

Row 4: Tss in next 11 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -12 tss

Still not working the last stitch…

Row 5: Tss in next 10 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -11 tss

Row 6: Tss in next 9 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -10 tss

Don’t work the last stitch of each row of Tunisian crochet, then begin the regular Return Pass. Thus removing 1 stitch from each row on the same edge of the fabric.

Row 7: Tss in next 8 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -9 tss

Row 8: Tss in next 7 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -8 tss

Are you seeing the angle?

Row 9: Tss in next 6 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -7 tss

Row 10: Tss in next 5 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -6 tss

Row 11: Tss in next 4 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -5 tss

Row 12: Tss in next 3 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -4 tss

Almost finished the first wedge…

Row 13: Tss in next 2 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -3 tss

Row 14: Tss in next 1 st, leaving last st unworked. RP. -2 tss

Row 15: Tss in same st, leaving last st unworked. RP. -1 tss

Second Wedge

Row 16: Pick up loops in each unworked stitch of rows below. RP.-15tss

Row 17-30: Rep Rows 2-15 of wedge 1.

Wedges 3-8

Repeat Second Wedge.

Seam Wedge 1 to Wedge 8.

Tunisian in the Round- Free Pattern

To help you celebrate National Crochet Month, I am sharing a technique to help advance your crochet skills, and including a free pattern. Today I am sharing how to work Tunisian Crochet in the Round.

First, I would like to thank Crochetville for including me in they blog tour for this month long celebration. Everyday you are introduced to a new designer, or hobbyist or teacher, to help inspire a new desire of crochet within you. Don’t miss a day, check out the participants here.

What Makes this Special

Tunisian crochet is an interesting technique that produces a fabric that can look woven, or even knitted. It is worked with in a two-step process. The first step is to load up the hook with loops (Forward Pass), like casting on in knitting, the second step is working all the loops off until only one remains (Return Pass).

Here is One Option

This back and for of the two-steps, actually can make it a bit challenging to work the fabric in the round, so often it is worked flat and then seamed. However, there are a couple of different approaches to working in the round. One is to work with a double ended crochet hook, so you can load from one end and work off the loops with the other. This process works the piece in a spiral and two strands of yarn, it looks nice, but finding double ended hooks is not exactly an easy task.

The Option I like

The method I employ more is one that I discovered from Jennifer Hanson, the Stitch Diva. It is a Tunisian Loop Return Pass. It involves using a cabled Tunisian hook, and adding joining loops to the fabric while working the Return Pass. I have tweaked it a bit from what Jennifer has in her video, as it works for me. So let me share my tweaked version.

How to Make it Work

After you have completed the Forward Pass of a Round, fold the cable of the hook so that the end is next to the hook, the next step for a return pass is to now yarn over and pull through a loop, you will still do this step but you wrap the yarn around the cable as you are yarning over. Basically I have the cable laying adjacent to the hook so that when I yarn over, the yarn is coming over the cable as well, and then I pull through 1 loop.

Include the cable in the yarn over.
Yarn over and pull through 1 loop on hook.

Keeping the cable laying adjacent to the hook still, I now yarn over and pull through 2 loops. At this point I have just added 2 loops to the end of the cable.


Yarn over the cable and hook again, then pull through 2 loops on the hook.
After working the 2 added joining loops to the cable, now work the standard process for a Return Pass of Yo, pull through 2 loops, across until 2 loops from the forward pass, and the 2 added joining loops remain.

Finishing the Join

I now continue the Return Pass, by yarning over and pulling through 2 loops without working over the cable until 2 loop from the Forward Pass and the 2 added loops remain, (this will be 4 loops on the hook). Yarn over and pull through the last 4 loops.

2 loops of the Return Pass, and the 2 added joining loops
Push the added joining loops up the cable and onto the hook. Yarn over and pull through all loops.
First Round is joined.

Work all subsequent round this way, and the fabric with be joined.

Yarn over cable and hook before beginning the Return Pass of every round.

In some of the Tunisian stitches there may be some gapping at the join. I have found this with the Tunisian Full Stitch for example, but overall it is satisfactory to me. In addition as the fabric is joined in the Return Pass, during the very first Round the beginning chain is not joined, so when I weave in the ends, I use this opportunity to close this gap.

The look of the seam after a few rounds.

Tunisian Cup Cozy Pattern

Tunisian Cup Cozy

Materials

Any medium weight yarn

M/N (9 mm) Tunisian cabled crochet hook

Special Stitches

Tunisian Loop Return Pass (TLRP)–  *Bring end of cable to working end of hook, bring working yarn to bottom of hook and in front of cable, loop working yarn under cable to top of hook,** YO, pull through a loop; Rep from * to ** once, YO, pull through 2 loops (2 loops added at end of row); (Yo, pull through 2 loops) until 4 loops remain on hook, YO, pull through 4 loops.

Tunisian Simple Stitch (Tss)Working from right to left, hold working yarn behind work, insert hook under next vertical bar, yarn over and draw up a loop.

Getting Started

Rnd 1: Ch 23, load hook by inserting hook in next ch, YO, pull up a loop across. TLRP. -23 sts

Rnd 2 & 3: Tss in each stitch. TLRP.

Rnd 4: Sc in each st across. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

1 for Me, 1 for You- Dancing Stripes Block

Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America, by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with you, I just ask that make one for donation.

Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through the United States.

Dancing Stripes Block

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

Tunisian Crochet

This block is used working Tunisian Crochet. Tunisian Crochet is essentially inserting your hook through your fabric and pulling up a loop, and leaving the loop on the hook, pulling up loops across the row. Then a “return pass” is worked to work each loop off the hook. This creates a fabric that has a similar look to weaving, yet has the same structural characteristics as crochet. There are many different stitches in this technique, but in this block I only use one stitch, the Tunisian Simple stitch. Learn the stitch here.

Changing color on every forward and return pass, creates a dramatic effect. Utilizing only three colors means that I have a color waiting for me when I finish a row and I know exactly which yarn to work next.

Gauge: 7”x9” rectangle

Materials

Medium weight yarn, in 3 colors MC (main color), CC1, CC2

9 mm Tunisian Crochet hook

Special Stitches

Tunisian Simple Stitch (tss): Insert hook from right to left under next vertical bar, YO, pull up a loop.

Return Pass (RP) :  YO and pull through 1 loop, [YO and pull through 2 loops] across, until 2 loops remain on hook, using new color for next row’s FP,  YO and pull through last 2 loops.

The Pattern

With MC Chain 19

Row 1: With color MC, pull up a loop in second ch from the hook and in each ch across. Switch to color CC1, RP. 19 sts

Row 2: With color CC2, tss across, switch to color MC, RP.

Row 3: With color CC1, tss across, switch to color CC2, RP.

Row 4: With color MC, tss across, switch to color CC1, RP.

Row 5-19: Rep Rows 2-4 five times.

Edging Rnd: With color CC2, sc in each vertical bar across, 3 sc in corner, work evenly sc around block working 3 sc in each corner. Finish off.

Tunisian Mini Shawl- Free Pattern!

ScannedImageWelcome to those visiting me from ELK Studios! Enjoy the Crochet-a-Long (if you would like to join, please check out the ELK Studio Christmas Present CAL)

Hard to believe that the holidays are fast approaching! To help work up some holiday gifts I am sharing my Tunisian Mini Shawl pattern. This is a shawl that is worked from the bottom point upward, with increases on either end of the row. I will admit that the very first row can seem like a bit of a challenge, but it becomes a simple repeat after that.

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Tunisian Mini Shawl

Tunisian Mini Shawl by: Linda Dean 

Add a little color to your wardrobe and brighten up any ensemble with this silk mini shawl. Worked in Tunisian crochet on a large hook, this project works up quickly and can be easily made into a full size shawl. Don’t be discouraged by the tricky start, it gets easier by row 2!

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner/Intermediate

Finished Size: 40” wide, 24.5” long

Materials List (for sample):

Tunisian Crochet Hook size P/ 11.5mm or size needed to achieve gauge.

1 skein Lisa Souza Glacier, sport weight, 100% Bombyx Silk Yarn (273yds/3.5 oz, 250m/100g) color: Flahridduh (www.lisaknit.com)

Tapestry needle

Material list options:

Any fine to medium weight yarn

Tunisian hook at least 2 sizes larger than standard crochet hook to be used for chosen yarn (i.e. if you would use a H/8/5.00mm standard crochet hook with yarn then use a K/10 ½/6.5mm Tunisian hook)

Tapestry needle

Gauge: 10.5 tss /8.5 rows =4”

Pattern Note

Each row consists of a forward pass and a return pass.

Increases are worked on either side of this triangle by addition of loop to hook; worked by inserting hook into the same stitch as previously worked, but in a different location.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

rep: repeat

RP: Return Pass: YO, pull through first loop, *YO and pull through 2 loops on hook; Rep from * across row until 1 loop remains on hook. (need a visual? Check out my tutorial)

Tss: Tunisian Simple Stitch: Insert hook behind vertical bar, YO, pull up a loop. (need a visual? Check out my tutorial)

sc: single crochet

st(s): stitch(es)

YO: yarn over hook

Row 1: Ch 2, insert hook from back to front through the ch closest to hook (this is so that the current working loop does not work off), YO, pull up a loop, insert hook in back bump next ch, YO, pull up a loop, insert hook between the remaining two loops of same ch just worked in, YO, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), RP.

Row 2: Insert hook from back to front of the loop created just below working loop, YO, pull up a loop, Tss in each bar across to end (including bar directly below starting loop), and end by inserting hook through ch st, YO pull up a loop, insert hook between 2 loops remaining of ch, YO, pull up a loop (6 loops on hook), RP.

Rows 3-52: Rep Row 2, increasing by 2 stitches every row as established. (106 loops on last row)

Row 53: Ch 1, sc through each bar across, and through last ch st.

Finish off.  Weave in all ends.

©2013 Linda Dean Crochet

Tunisian Simple Stitch….Yes, It Is That Simple

ScannedImageTunisian stitches are unique in crochet as they are worked by “loading” your hook with live loops across the row then working a Return Pass to work all the loops back off. So every row has a two part process, load up the loops, and then work the loops back off. It is also unique as you do not turn your work, but work back and forth on the same side. Tunisian Simple Stitch is a classic stitch in Tunisian crochet, it was one called the “afghan stitch” and creates a vertical line where the stitches stack up upon one another.

Before beginning Tunisian crochet, you need to select the correct size hook, this technique can create a dense fabric if the hook size is too small. My standard rule of thumb is that whatever stand size crochet hook I would use with the chosen yarn, I go up at least 2 sizes in Tunisian. Meaning if with standard crochet I would use a size H/8/5.00mm with a yarn I would choose a Tunisian hook of K/10 ½/6.5mm to get the same drape and feel of the fabric.

To work this stitch, you begin with a chain, insert your hook into the second chain from the hook and pull through a loop, insert your hook into the next chain and pull through a loop, continue this insert hook and pull up a loop until you have worked all the chains have been worked. You will have the same number of loops on the hook as the number of chains you began with. Now you work a Return Pass.

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Insert hook into chain stitch, yarn over, pull through a loop. Repeat this process in all chain stitches across.

The Return Pass is always the same regardless of the Tunisian stitch, unless otherwise stated. You begin with working a chain 1 with the first loop on the hook, then yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 loops across the loops until 1 loop remains. Now you are ready to begin the next row.

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Return Pass….Chain 1 (with the first loop only, this creates the last stitch), yarn over and pull through 2 loops, repeat the yarn over, pull through 2 loops until 1 loop remains on the hook.

As with most things with crochet the Tunisian Simple Stitch (Tss) is where you place the hook. You do not work in the stitch directly below the loop on your hook, unless otherwise stated as this will cause an increase in the work, working from right to left you insert your hook under the vertical bar of the next stitch, yarn over and pull through a loop, continue inserting your hook under the vertical bar and pull through a loop until you reach the end of the row. Insert your hook into the chain 1 created in the beginning of the Return Pass, this is a little more difficult to work into, and is the last stitch of the row. Now you work the return pass again.

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Insert hook under vertical bar from right to left (reversed if you are left handed), yarn over, pull up a loop, repeat to “load” the hook.

Continue this process, as you are now creating the Tunisian Simple Stitch.

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Tunisian Simple Stitch, also known as the Afghan Stitch