5 Ways to Add Fabric to Crochet

Posted on February 3, 2020 by webmaster

I was asked a couple of week ago to share how to attach fabric to crochet. It was a little bit of perfect timing as I was working up a scrap yarn handbag, and it could really benefit from a lining.

There are actually a few ways to attach fabric to crochet.

Hand Sewing

The first method is tried and true, hand sewing. If I am creating a lining for a bag, I cut my fabric the same size as my project. Then I seem the side (this is definitely true for handbags). Now I am ready to add it to my crochet.

Since I cut the fabric the same size and then seemed it, you will notice that it is now slightly smaller than the project….this is perfect. I insert the lining, and now I fold the raw edge of the top of the fabric over. I pull out the hand sewing needle and whip stitch the top edge of the folded fabric to the crochet.

Whip stitching is simply entering the needle from the same side of the fabric. Essentially it is making a loop of thread through both pieces of fabric.

Whip stitch is worked by inserting the needle in the same place and looping through the fabrics

Machine Sewing

Another way to add fabric to crochet is machine sewing. Honestly I do not pull out my sewing machine for what I would view as a small project, but once I did work a bunch of crochet squares to a bunch of fabric squares to make a blanket, and in this case I definitely pulled out the machine. You do need to use a bit of caution and know the machine you are using, but I basically used the fabric and crochet just as I would other machine sewing projects.

Place the fabric on the crochet, if you are turning under a crochet edge (as in typical machine sewing), then just lay the fabrics together and stitch. If the fabric is more like a lining fold under the raw edge of the fabric and stitch to the crochet.

I have found that I prefer the crochet fabric to be the bottom fabric. I lower the feed dogs (the little textured metal tracks that help pull the fabric through the machine), and thus have to help the fabric through with a little gentle pulling. I prefer this approach to having the crochet on top, as I have found the crochet can get a bit hung up on the presser foot or snag on the needle.

Sew crochet on a machine by lowering the feed dogs, and help gently pull the fabric through the machine

As machine sewing will create a tighter stitch then hand stitching, it can, and most likely will create a line across your crochet. If hand sewing this can be easily avoided as you do not have to sew all the way through the fabric, you can sew through half of a crochet stitch instead.

Fusible Interfacing

Another way to adhere fabric to crochet to using a double sided fusible interface. This is a product that works a bit like magic and can be found most places you find fabric. You follow the package direction, using an iron and basically glue the fabric to the crochet. I really have done very little of this, and even then I only worked it in small areas that I wanted to add crochet to large pieces of fabric. It will stiffen the crochet, and depending on the yarn used, it may not appreciate the iron, so beware. Test your fabric and your yarn before going down this rabbit hole.

Needle Felting

In addition you can add crochet to fabric by needle felting. To needle felt crochet to fabric you need to be mindful of the materials you are using. First your yarn, it tend to work best with wool, preferably not superwash. The fabric should be one that can take a bit of abuse, as it is going to be punched repeatedly with a needle. I prefer working with denim, linen or canvas, but have worked on cottons. You need a needle felting needle (it is a needle that actually has small barbs on it that you can feel running you finger up from the needle from the point), and a piece of foam (a pillow can work too).

You place your crochet where you want it on the fabric. Place the foam behind the fabric, and push the needle through the crochet and fabric, into the foam. You repeat this process until the crochet is adhered. You will notice that on the back of the fabric that yarn is being pushed through. Times will vary greatly, and some fabrics/yarns are not suitable and will not stay in place no matter how long you work it.

Needle felting pushes the yarn through the fabric

Crochet Joins

Finally one additional way to add fabric to crochet, simply crocheting it on. There is a little prep work to make you project easier, but it is completely doable. I fold the raw edge of the fabric over, and find a small crochet hook, a steel crochet hook usually works fine, and then I evenly push it through the edge of the folded fabric creating small holes. I then continue working with the small hook and crochet through these holes into the crochet fabric.

Push a small crochet hook through the folded fabric to create holes to help when crocheting the fabrics together.

Working through the holes in the fabric crochet to the crochet. Stitch shown is slip stitch

To make crocheting the fabric on a bit easier, you can take a yarn needle and work a blanket stitch (inserting the needle in the same side of the fabric in a similar movement as a whip stitch, but before the loop pulls closed you insert you needle in the loop, this makes an edge of thread/yarn at the top of the fabric) around the fold fabric in a yarn of your choice. You then crochet in the loop created.

Blanket Stitch, insert needle from front to back of fabric, loop over edge to reinsert into fabric while slipping needle through the loop created. This does not allow the stitch to be pulled tight without completely distorting the edge

The top edging of the blanket stitch creates a place to crochet into, and thus you can crochet through these loops onto the crochet fabric to be joined to.

A Little Extra Padding

To add a little bit of stiffness to the project, or a bit of body to it over all, consider adding a bit of quilt batting between the fabric and crochet.

Some of these techniques are more comfortable than others, and much of that can be related to your comfort level with sewing in general. Just remember like crochet, it can be forgiving, so give it a try.

Moorish Tiles Square- Moogly CAL 2020

Posted on January 23, 2020 by webmaster

I love starting off the year with the Moogly CAL! It is a great year long project that makes new squares every two weeks. By the end of the year, you have an afghan. It is always a fun project with many inspirational squares.

I am fortunate enough to share my square with you. To check out all the others make sure and follow along here.

This square uses a stitch often called a Catherine Wheel. Essentially it is a row of decrease, and a row of large shell worked in the center of the decrease. This makes a circle in the fabric. Learn more about this technique with my free charity square, 1 for Me, 1 For You- Rolling Along.

I have been playing with this stitch a bit lately. Taking a liking to working a contrasting color row between the “circles”, I have also found that by working slip stitches where this classic stitch works single crochets, creates a bit of a tighter fabric. This is beneficial, as sometimes this stitch technique can become a bit open and “gappy” at the edges of the circles.

The name really came from how the design struck me. It has reminded me of the mosaics I have seen in art books, and inspires me to want to travel.

Materials

*Red Heart With Love, #1542 Aubergine (A), #1207 Cornsilk (B), #1562 Jadeite (C), #1001 White (D), #1623, Mallard (E)

*Hook J/10/ 6.00mm

Gauge

12”x 12” square (30.5 x 30.5cm)

Special Stitches

Double Crochet 6 Together (dc6tog): Working over the next 6 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] six times, yo, pull through all 7 loops on hook.

Double Crochet 7 Together (dc7tog): Working over the next 7 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] seven times, yo, pull through all 8 loops on hook.

Double Crochet 9 Together (dc9tog): Working over the next 9 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] nine times, yo, pull through all 10 loops on hook.

Notes/Tips

Single crochet stitches are worked over slip stitches, this may be up to 3 rows, creating a break in color.

When working the last round, work the single crochet stitches into the chain stitches and not the space (with the exception of the corners), so as not to create open gaps.

Learn how to work a Standing Single Crochet here.

The Pattern

Rnd1: With A, ch 4, sl st to first ch to create ring, (ch 5 counts as dc + ch 2, [2 dc, sl st, 2 dc, ch 2] three times, 2 dc, sl st, dc, sl st to 3^rd ch of beg ch) in the ring. Fasten off. -16 dc, 4 sl st, 4 ch-2 sps

First Round with Single Crochet over Slip Stitches

Rnd 2: With B, join with a standing sc in any ch-2 sp see notes to work a Standing Single Crochet, ch 2, sc in same sp, [sc in next 2 dc, sc over sl st in ring, sc in next 2 dc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp] three times, sc in next 2 dc, sc over sl st in ring, sc in next 2 dc, join. Fasten off. -28 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 3: With C, join with a sl st in any ch-2 sp, ch 2, sl st in same sp, [ch 3, dc7tog, ch 3, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in ch-2 sp] three times, ch 3, dc7tog, ch 3, join in ch-2 sp. -4 dc7tog, 8 sl sts, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 4: ch 2, sl st in same sp, [9 dc in center dc7tog, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in ch-2 sp] three times, 9 dc in center dc7tog, join. Fasten off. -36 dc, 8 sl st, 4 ch-2 sps

Second Round with Single Crochet over Slip Stitches

Rnd 5: With D, join with a standing sc in any ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in same sp, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, [sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below] three times, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, join. Fasten off. – 52 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 6: With E, join to any ch-2 sp, ch 5 counts as dc + ch 2, dc in same sp, [ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp] three times, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, join to 3^rd ch. – 8 dc6tog, 4 sl st, 4 (dc, ch 2, dc)

Rnd 7: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 2, sl st in same sp, [9 dc in dc6tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in dc6tog, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in next ch-2 sp] three times, 9 dc in dcs6tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in dc6tog, join. Fasten off. -72 dc, 12 sl st, 4 ch-2 sps

Third Round with Single Crochet over Slip Stitches

Rnd 8: With B, join with a standing sc in any ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in same sp, [sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into st 3 rows below, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp] three times, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into st 3 rows below, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, join. Fasten off. -92 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 9: With A, join in any ch-2 sp, ch 5 counts as dc + ch 2, dc in same sp, [ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp ] three times, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, join to 3^rd ch. – 4 dc9tog, 8 dc6tog, 8 sl sts, 4 (dc, ch 2, dc)

Rnd10: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 2, sl st in same st, [9 dc in dc6tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in dc6tog, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in ch-2 sp] three times, 9 dc in dc6tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in dc6tog, join. Fasten off. – 108 dc, 16 sl sts, 4 ch-2 sps

Fourth Round with Single Crochet over Slip Stitches

Rnd 11: With D, join with a standing sc in any ch-2 sp, ch 2, sc in same sp, {sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, [sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into st 3 rows below] twice, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp} three times, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below [ sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into st 3 rows below] twice, sc in each st to next sl st, sc over sl st into sp 3 rows below, join. Fasten off. -132 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

Row 12: With C, join to any ch-2 sp, ch 5 counts as dc + ch 2, dc in same sp, {ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp) three times, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc6tog, ch 3, join to 3rd ch. -8 dc9tog, 8 dc6tog, 12 sl sts, 4 (dc, ch 2, dc)

Last Round, Work in Chains, and Single Crochet over Slip Stitches

Row 13: See notes. Ch 1, sc in same st, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each st and ch across to next ch-2 sp] three times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-2 sp, sc in each st and ch across to last st, join. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block. -140 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

Join with a Standing Crochet Stitch

Posted on January 20, 2020 by webmaster

I have become a fan of using standing stitches when joining a new yarn to an existing row, especially when joining with a single crochet.

This technique removes the slip stitch to join and the chain for stitch height. It just works the stitch.

Working a Standing Single Crochet

So to work a standing single crochet is worked by creating a loop on your hook, just as if you were going to being a project. Insert your hook into the stitch to be joined to, yarn over and pull up a loop.

Continue to work Standing Single Crochet, by pulling up a loop.

Now yarn over and pull through both the loops on the hook. Basically you just work a single crochet, because there is already a loop on the hook to finish the stitch just as you always have.

Finish a Standing Single Crochet by working a yarn over, and pull through both loops on the hook.

If you want to work this with other stitches that have a yarn over before inserting the hook, it can be a bit trickier, but with a little attention to detail is can be readily done.

Work a Standing Double Crochet

To work a standing double crochet for instance, place a loop on you work just as if you your beginning a crochet project, now yarn over you hook. This will feel very awkward as there is nothing to help keep the yarn over in place, so you may want to slide this up you hook and pinch it with the loop under your fingers while holding the hook.

Beginning a Standing Double Crochet, by yarning over the hook before inserting it into the stitch to join. Be careful to hold the yarn over on your hook as it can easily slip off.

Now insert the hook into the joining location, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the loop and the yarn over you have been pinching on the hook. Then yarn over and pull through the last two loops.

The next step of the Standing Double Crochet is to pull up a loop, still being careful not to lose that added yarn over, as it is still able to twist itself off the hook.

The third step of a Standing Double Crochet lets you breath a little easier ass you pull through both the loop and the yarn off that has been on the hook.

Finish the Standing Double Crochet by pulling through the last two loops on the hook.

You will notice that with all standing stitches the “tail” of the yarn is at the top of the stitch, not at the bottom as is where it is found in traditional joins.

One nice thing about this type of join is that it looks like all the other stitches, and it saves a bit of yarn.

Make It For Me- Italian Spy Handbag

Posted on January 18, 2020 by webmaster

I am so excited to be participating in the Make it for Me with ELK Studio (for all the designs check it out here!). This year I have been inspired to create the Italian Spy Handbag as a Free pattern.

This handbag was inspired by a conversation with a friend that happens to be a fashion designer. She was discussing a crochet fabric with me, and I was discussing shapes with her. The further we went along in the discussion, I had a vision of the perfect small handbag I needed for day trips to the city.

For me, a day in the city is San Francisco. I always want to travel with only the essentials, as there is a lot of walking….much more then I typically do in an average day.

So, I want a handbag that can carry the essentials, not weigh a lot, and one that I can comfortably keep close. The Italian Spy fits that build.

It is a simple pattern that uses less then one skein, and utilizes a simple tight stitch. But, just because it is worked in single crochet do not under estimate the overall effect of the fabric, or how it can easily show your mistakes. The pattern is worked in one piece, and then folded and seamed. There is an option to stiffen the sides and bottom, and options for the finishing edge.

I hope you give it a try for you prefect day out handbag. Enjoy.

Italian Spy Handbag

Finished Size

10”x7”x2”

Materials

Hook: F/5/3.75mm

Manos del Uruguay Milo light weight 65% Merino wool, 35% linen yarn, (380yrd/350 m/3.5 oz/100 g) 1 skein, colorway #2607 Boreal

1” Button
24” handle

Gauge

Gauge 22 sts/ 25 rows=4”

Front

Ch 50

Row 1: sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -49sc

Row 2-42: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 43: Ch 1, sc in each st across, ch 42, fasten off.

Sides Worked with Body

Row 44: Join with slip stitch to Row 43 at first st of row (opposite end of end just fastened off), ch 43, turn, sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, sc in each sc across, and sc in each ch, turn. -133sc

Row 45-55: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off at the end of Row 55.

Back

Row 56: Skipping 42 sts, join to next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 48 sts, turn. -49sc

Row 57-100: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Flap

Row 101: DO NOT CH, sc2tog, sc until 2 sts rem, sc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. -47sc, (2) sc2tog

Row 102-120: Rep Row 101. -7sc, (2) sc2tog

Row 121: Buttonhole Row, DO NOT CH, sc2tog, sc in next st, ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in next st, sc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. –(1) ch-3 sp, 2sc, (2) sc2tog

Row 122-123: Rep row 101. Fasten off at the end of Row 123. -1sc, (2) sc2tog

Optional Insert (to create more stiffness)

Ch 132

Row 1: Sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -131sc

Row 2-10: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off at the end of Row 10.

Optional Assembly of Insert

Lay Insert section over the Sides Worked with Body Portion, Seam the insert to the Sides over Body in any preferred method, such as whip stitch with a needle or slip stitch with a crochet hook. For even more stiffening, you can place a strip of plastic or cardboard that measure 1” x 25”, and place it between the Insert and Side worked with Body

Assembly

Fold Front and Back toward each other, and Fold Sides toward Front and Back, seam side of Side to Front, and seam side of Side to Back, on each side of the handbag.

Working over seamed edges, and all unfinished edges, work Reverse Single Crochet or Corded Edge Stitch around to finish.

Sew button on Front to align with Button Hole of Flap.

Sew Handles to Sides.

If Flap is curling, use an iron to seam if flat.

1 for Me, 1 for You- Rolling Along Block

Posted on January 6, 2020 by webmaster

Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America, by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with you, I just ask that make one for donation.

Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through the United States.

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

Rolling Along Block

Working the Catherine’s Wheel

Catherine’s Wheel is a classic crochet stitch that works one row of shells over a row of decreases to create a circle or wheel look. I have made a couple of changes to the classic pattern. For starters instead of working a single crochet after completing the shell or decrease, I work a slip stitch. I find that this help prevent “gapping” that occurs in the chain 3 area.

Working a dc9tog, you will have 10 loops on the hook.

Yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook.

Slip stitch worked after the chain 3, to secure the decrease.

Working a decrease on the corner, dc5tog.

I should also point out that I work the shells in “the center of the decrease”, this is the biggest opening. However it is really not the completion of the decrease stitch, but the third chain. I feel that working here emphasizes the “center”, when working in the actual point of completion just looks a bit wonky.

Work the Shell in the center of the decrease, it creates a “hole”.

Working a shell at the beginning of a row means working in the center of the decrease.

I do have an exception to this, and that is when finishing a row with a shell it needs to be worked in the top of the turning chain to keep the edge straight. This will be just over from the “center”.

The “exception” the last shell is worked in the top of the turning chain, this helps to keep a straight edge.

Gauge

7”x9” rectangle

Materials

Medium weight yarn, in 2 colors MC (main color), CC1

K/10 ½/6.5mm crochet hook

Special Stitches

Double crochet 4 together (dc4tog): Working over the next 4 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] six times, yo, pull through all 5 loops on hook.

Double crochet 5 together (dc5tog): Working over the next 5 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] six times, yo, pull through all 6 loops on hook.

Double crochet 9 together (dc9tog): Working over the next 9 sts, [yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] six times, yo, pull through all 10 loops on hook.

Note:

Change colors without fastening off the yarn. Instead carry the yarn along the edge, and it will be hidden in the edging round. Here are some tips for do it.

The Pattern

With MC Chain 25

Row 1: Sc in 2^nd ch from hook, [sk 3 chs, 9 dc in next ch, sk 3 chs, sc in next ch] three times, change to CC1, turn. –(3) 9 dc shells, 5 sc

Row 2: Ch 3, dc4tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc5tog, turn. – (2) dc9tog, (1) dc4tog, (1) dcs5tog

Row 3: Ch 3, 4 dc in same st, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 5 dc in top of turning ch-3, change to MC, turn. (2) 9 dc shells, (2) 5 dc shells

Row 4: Ch 1, sl st in same st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in next st, ch 3, dc9tog, ch 3, sl st in last st, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sl st in same st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in next sl st, 9 dc in center of dc9tog, sl st in last st, change to CC1, turn.

Row 6-13: Rep Rows 2-5 twice.

Row 14: Rep Row 2. Fasten off.

Edging

With color MC, sc in each st across, 3 sc in corner, work evenly sc around block working 3 sc in each corner. Finish off.