Category Archives: Crochet Understanding

Reversible Shells- A unique fabric

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Creating unique reversible crochet fabric is a really fun thing to do. The Reversible Shell stitch is a great technique that can create a memorable blanket, scarf, hat, or really just about anything.

It looks more intimidating than it really is. This technique is worked as a 4 row repeat, working 2 rows in each color.

One of the things that can be a bit trying about this stitch is that after working 2 rows of one color, you remove the hook from the working loop and pick up the loop of the other color and work 2 more rows.

Lets Get Started

Start with a beginning chain of a multiple of 4. The first row has a little different stitch pattern in order to keep the project looking symmetrical.

To work the first row, put a stitch marker in the 4th chain from the hook (this is to help find the location to join the second color), dc in 5th ch from hook, 3 dc in next ch, dc in next ch, [ch 1, sk 1, dc in next ch, 3 dc in next ch, dc in next ch] repeat across, leave last ch unworked. Do not turn.

The beginning foundation of Reversible Shells in crochet
Reversible Shells, Row 1

A Little Unnerving Way to Start A New Row

Now for the unnerving part, pull your working loop up kind of long and remove your hook. With the second color join with a sc in the marked chain (to work a standing sc, check it out here), now ch 6, sc in the skipped chain of the beginning, (ch 6, sc in next ch) across, working last sc in the unworked last chain. Chain 1, and slip stitch to the last stitch worked in the other color making sure to keep the long loop and the working yarn of the other skein out of the way. Now you turn the fabric.

Using a standing single crochet to join for Reversible Shells
Reversible Shells- drop the working loop and join the new color with a standing single crochet
Adding the first row of a new color in Reversible Shell crochet stitch is a chain loop
Reversible Shells- Work chain 6 and single crochet across, working a single crochet in the unused beginning chain.
Slip Stitch to attach this unique reversible fabric
Reversible Shell- Slip Stitch in last stitch of the other color, make sure to keep the long loop and working yarn out of the way.

Join the Fabrics

This row essentially joins the two colors. When working the shell the hook is inserted through the indicated double crochet and chain 6 loop of the same color that is being worked. Ch2, sk 1 dc, Shell (5 dc in next dc and ch-6 loop), [ch 1, sk 4 dc, Shell in next dc and ch-6 loop (this is the center dc and the chain loop)] repeat across, sc in turning chain. Pull up the working loop to a long loop and remove hook. Do not turn.

Work through the two rows in Reversible Shell crochet stitch
Reversible Shell- Insert hook through both the indicated stitch and the chain 6 loop that is the same color as the working yarn.
Single crochet in last stitch or turning chain.
Reversible Shell- Single crochet in the last stitch or turning chain

Back to Working Only the Same Color

This row works through the same color. Start by inserting the hook in the other color loop, and resize the loop to fit the hook. [Ch 6 and sc in the ch-1 sp (between the 5 dc stitches)] repeat across. Turn and work the Row of joining the two colors.

Single crochet in the chain 1 space between the double crochets of the same color
Reversible Shells- Chain 6, single crochet in the chain 1 space between double crochets of the same color

And Repeat

Repeat the stitch pattern rows or working ch-6 loops, turning and working a joining shell. Then you drop the working yarn, pick up the other color and work the same stitch repeat.

Reversible Shells crochet
Reversible Shells- Work the pattern until the desired length.

Work this until you have the desired length.

I like to finish my work so that it has a little visual balance, so I work a row of the ch-6 loops, and fasten off that color. I then turn and pick up the other color loop. Chain 4 and [sc in the same location I would work a shell, picking up the ch-6 loop, ch 3] repeat across, sc in 2nd ch of ch-6 loop. Then fasten off.

I have found that it works nicely with a wide range of colors and yarn types. Lending itself to endless possibilities.

Tall Stitches, More Loops, More Possibilities

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Crochet is all about the loops and how you work them, and working tall stitches can create lace . This lends itself to infinite possibilities.

One way to explore crochet is through tall stitches. Tall stitches utilize the same concept as the standard double crochet. Yarn over your hook, insert it into a location, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through two loops until you only have one loop on your hook.

The more times you yarn over before inserting the hook into a location the taller the stitch will be using the above method. There are names for each stitch depending on how many times you yarn over, but honestly I have to look them up every time I write them in a pattern, and in this description I want to share the concept and how to play with them.

Playing with multiple yarn overs can, and pull throughs at varying points can create many different affects.

This might seem like you can create inches of fabric faster and really whip through your projects, but these stitches have some slight disadvantages. The taller the stitch the holey the fabric. This is because the stitches are only connected at the top and bottom. Allowing movement and space between them.

More yarn overs before starting the stitch makes for tall airy stitches.

You can link the yarn overs, as is demonstrated in Linked Stitches (here). Essentially you are inserting the hook into each yarn over of the adjacent stitch and pulling a loop through it. This closes the gap between stitches and creates a denser fabric. However in reality you are really working Tunisian crochet in the opposite direction as is standard. It is a nice process and some might say trick, but it may not be the look you are going for.

Linking the yarn overs of the adjacent stitches closes the gaps and creates vertically worked Tunisian crochet stitches

The other thing you can do with tall stitches is create some interesting lace stitches, some that resemble letters or rune marking. These can be created in various ways. Here is a demonstration of just one possibility.

You begin the stitch as normal, in this case I have yarned over 5 times. Inserted the hook, yarn over and pull through 1, and then worked 3 of the yarn overs off my hook. I then yarned over an additional 3 times, skipped a couple of stitches and reinserted my hook. Yarn over pull up a loop and worked off the 3 added loops. Now I completed the remaining of the loops to finish the stitch.

After yarning over 5 times and beginning the tall stitch, I stooped after working 3 of the 5 yarn overs. I added 3 more yarn over to my hook.
I then inserted the hook in a new location and worked all the loops off the until only 1 loop remained.

If I wanted to make this effect more symmetrical, I chained the number of stitches I skipped and worked a double crochet at the “join point” of the stitch. This gave me an “X” effect. (Learn more about tall stitches here)

By adding some chains and then adding a double crochet where the “join” is, I created a more symmetrical shape.

These are really airy stitches, but make quick lace. Give these tall stitches a try for yourself, and play a bit. I find that it is the best way to gain real insight into my craft.

Add Fingers to Fingerless Gloves

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I see a lot of fingerless glove patterns, however not a lot of actual gloves. I have had some people tell me that they think that gloves are just too hard, well to this I disagree.

Making a Fingerless Glove

Turning any fingerless glove into an actual full fledged glove, is actually not that difficult. Begin with the basic fingerless glove, and if you want to create your own custom fit, check out more information here.

Mark your fingers

Once you have your fingerless glove made, the next set is to put it one. Take 3 removable stitch markers (or safety pins), insert them between your fingers through both the front and back of the glove fabric.

Insert stitch markers of safety pins between the fingers.

Join yarn anywhere along the finger edge of the fabric. If you were working a pattern that was stitched wrist to fingers, you can simply keep working the yarn from the last round without finishing off.

Start crocheting the “separations”

Work stitches, I recommend single crochet, evenly along edge. Work a slip stitch to the adjacent stitch (the one on the fabric on the other side of the hand) whenever you come to a stitch marker. This will create the “separation” between the fingers. I even just work this technique when I am still just creating fingerless gloves. I feel like it helps them stay in place and not twist around my hand.

When working the single crochets, slip stitch across the fabric on the opposite side of the glove to create the finger “separations”.

Spiral your fingers

When you begin to work on the opposite side of the hand, and come to a slip stitch, work a single crochet in the one leg of the slip stitch that is closest to the last single crochet worked. Single crochet in a spiral by working on the fabric side previously worked, and work a tube the length of your finger.

Finish off your yarn, and join to fabric right next to the finger just made. Make the next finger working a stitch in the “one leg” of the slip stitch, of each side of the finger, and continue with the spiral method until the length meets your need. Repeat this of the remaining two fingers.

Work a single crochet in “one leg” of the slip stitch.

Make a thumb

Work the thumb in the same manner, joining to the edge of the thumbing opening and crocheting around it. However this opening may be much larger than the end of your thumb. Work two single crochet together (sc2tog) once in the first and second round. Then continue until the desired length is reached.

Work the spirals until each finger is the desired length.

Cinch them closed

Prepare to weave in the ends. Thread the tails at the ends of the fingers through the stitches in the last round of each finger and pull tight to cinch closed.

Glove

I do recommend that working fingers, it is best to use thinner weight yarn, nothing above a sport weigh (number 3). I usually work most of my gloves, and even fingerless gloves out of wool blended yarns that are either a fine or medium weigh (number 2 or 3). This is because anything heavier just becomes too bulky and feel clumsy on my hands. The nice thing about gloves is that you can complete a pair with only one hank of yarn, and feel really accomplished in your skills.

Making Fingerless Gloves

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Have a little yarn? Needing a quick gift? Want to get ready for cold weather? Crochet Fingerless gloves are the prefect answer.

I have created a few patterns for fingerless, and even fingered gloves over the years, but you can create your own custom fit pair pretty easily. All you need to do is create a rectangle.

That seems almost a little too simple, but this version of fingerless gloves really are that simple.

Want to follow a pattern instead, here are some of my glove patterns:

Types of Gloves

There are essentially two different approaches to creating gloves. One is to work in the round, making a tube. This approach needs a little more attention to detail, as the tube needs to adjust in size a bit to feel like a nice fit. When working from the cuff to palm there needs to be an increase a couple of rounds before the thumb and then create a loop for the thumb, while decrease a couple of stitches to help the gloves fit the fingers.

However if you work a rectangle in the length you want your gloves and continue until the width can wrap around your hand, then you can make a glove.

Pin the fabric on either side the thumb and seam the fabric together on either side.

Make your Gloves

This rectangle can be created in any stitch pattern, so you have complete creative control. If you want a bit of extra stretch I would recommend working a fabric of back loop single crochet. It offers a ribbing like effect and allows for a comfortable fit.

Then the beginning row is folded over to the last row. I place my hand in this fold and use stitch markers to mark either side of my thumb, essentially marking the opening for my thumb. Then it is as simple as seaming the edges together with the exception of the thumb opening.

It really is that simple.

I have found to step these gloves up a bit more, I find a yarn that has a great color change, or nice texture. This makes the rectangle that can really be something that is fabulous.

1 For Me, 1 For You- Linked Crochet Block

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Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America, by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with you, I just ask that make one for donation.

Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through the United States.

Linked Crochet Block

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

Linked Crochet Stitches

Linked stitches create a row without open spaces between the stitches, the stitches stand together and are interlinked with one another. It creates a distinctive line across the right side of the row and a uniquely textured wrong side of the row. This is a create way to create a solid fabric even with tall stitches.

If you have experience with Tunisian crochet you may see some similarities. As with Tunisian Simple Stitch, you insert the hook and pull up a loop, and then work them back off to one loop.

Gauge: 7”x 9” rectangle

Materials

  • Medium weight yarn in 4 fours (A), (B), (C), and (D)
  • K/10 1/2 /6.5 mm crochet hook

Block

Row 1: With A, ch 30, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, change to B, turn. -29sc

Linked Half Double Crochet

Linked Half Double Crochet (lhdc): Insert hook in yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

(Linked Half Double crochet) Insert hook into yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo, pull up a loop
(Linked Half Double Crochet) Insert hook into the next stitch, yo, pull up a loop
Yo, pull through 3 loops. Linked Half Double Crochet completed

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout), hdc in same st, lhdc in each st across, turn. -28 lhdc, 1hdc

Rows 3 & 4: Rep Row 2, changing to color A at the end of row 4.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, change to C, turn. -29 sc

Linked Double Crochet

Linking to the Turning Chain

Beginning Linked Double Crochet (Bldc): Insert hook in 2nd chain from hook (of the turning chain), yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through last 2 loops.

Beginning Chain 3
(Beginning Linked Double Crochet) Insert hook into the 2nd chain of the beginning turning chain, yo, pull up a loop.
(Beginning Linked Double Crochet) Insert hook in next stitch, yo, pull up a loop.

The Traditional Linked Double Crochet

Linked Double Crochet (ldc): Insert hook in yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through the last 2 loops.

(Linked Double Crochet) Insert hook into yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch
(Linked Double Crochet)Insert hook in yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo, pull up a loop
(Linked Double Crochet) Insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop
(Linked Double Crochet) Yo, pull through 2 loops on the hook
(Linked Double Crochet) Yarn over pull through last 2 loops on hook, Stitch complete.

Row 6: Ch 3, Bldc, ldc in each st across, turn. -28 ldc, 1Bldc

Rows 7 & 8: Rep Row 6, changing to color A at the end of Row 8.

Row 9: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, change to C, turn. -29 sc

Linked Treble Crochet

Linking to the Turning Chain

Beginning Linked Treble Crochet (Bltr): Insert hook in 2nd chain from hook (of the turning chain), yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into 4th chain from hook, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through last 2 loops.

(Beginning Linked Treble Crochet) Insert hook in 2nd chain from hook, yo, pull up a loop
(Beginning Linked Treble Crochet) Insert hook in 4th chain from hook, yo, pull up a loop.
(Beginning Linked Treble Crochet) Insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop
(Beginning Linked Treble Crochet) Yarn over pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 2 loops.

The Traditional Linked Treble Stitch

Linked Treble Crochet (ltr): Insert hook in top yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in bottom yarn over wrap of the adjacent stitch, yo pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 2 loops, pull through the last 2 loops.

(Linked Treble Crochet) Insert hook in top yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in bottom yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo pull up a loop
(Linked Treble Crochet) Insert hook in the next stitch, yo, pull up a loop
(Linked Treble Crochet) Yarn over pull through 2 loops
(Linked Treble Crochet) Yarn over, pull through 2 more loops on hook
(Linked Treble Crochet) Yarn over, pull through last 2 loop. Stitch completed.

Row 10: Ch 4, Bltr, ltr in each st across, turn. -28 ltr, 1Bltr

Rows 11 & 12: Rep Row 6, changing to color A at the end of Row 8.

Row 13: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, fasten off. -29 sc

Weave in ends, block.