I am excited to see that some of my new designs are out in the wild! I have designs released in the last couple of weeks in I Like Crochet Magazine (December 2019 issue), and with Manos del Uruguay Fall 2019 collection.
Yuletide Hat- I Like Crochet, December 2019
You can find my Yuletide Hat in the December 2019 issue of I Like Crochet Magazine, it is actually an embellished version of an earlier design. The Homey Fireplace Hat was released in the same publications October 2017 issue. The embellishment adds a little length, some fabulous yarn and a pom-pom. It is a great update that is perfect for a holiday gift.
Then there is Muntin, a pattern that can be put together more than a one way to create two great designs. It consist of 6 different motifs in 2 different sizes. This allows for a really dynamic display of color, which has no two motifs that are alike. The motifs always seem a bit floral to me, so I always see a bed of flowers in this design, but you may notice something else.
Muntin as a cowl, Manos Del Uruguay Fall 2019 Collection
The two designs created with these motifs, have one being a cowl and the other a wrap, using the same amount of yarn and worked as join as you go so no sewing required. You could easily take this motifs and put them together in other ways to let your own imagination run wild.
Muntin as a wrap, Manos del Uruguay Fall 2019 Collection
Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America,
by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free
pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with
you, I just ask that make one for donation.
Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that
encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their
office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through
the United States.
String of Stars Block
Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America,
please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There
are various places in every community that accept donations.
Star Stitches
This block is used working
star stitches. Star stitches are similar to working a decrease over several
stitches, but instead of over several stitches it is over various parts of
adjacent stitches. Pulling up many loops in many places creates this unique
looking stitch, in this block I have you working 2 different types of star
stitches. One star is big and full over yarn overs to create a dynamic
appearance, while the lighter star is does not have yarn over, and few loops,
but creates a great textural effect, and in my opinion looks cute pall stacked
upon one another.
Gauge: 7”x9” rectangle
Materials
Medium weight yarn, in
3 colors MC (main color), CC1, CC2
K/10 ½/ 6.5mm hook
Special Stitches
Beginning Full Star (BFS): Yo, insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yo, pull through loop, yo insert hook through base (post) of last stain next ch, yo, pull through a loop, yo insert hook into same st as chain, yo, pull through a loop, yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook into next hook, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 11 loops on hook.
Full Star (FS): Yo, insert hook into eye last star made, yo, pull through loop, yo insert hook through base (post) of last star, yo, pull through a loop, yo insert hook into same st as last base (post) of last star, yo, pull through a loop, yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook into next hook, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 11 loops on hook.
Loop placement for the Full Star Stitch (the placement is the same as the Light Star, but a Yarn over is worked between each inserting of the hook).After pulling through all the loops, you chain 1, this creates an “eye” at the center of the stitch
And the Smaller Star
Beginning Light Star (BLS): Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yo, pull through a loop, insert hook in next ch, yo, pull through a loop, insert hook into same st as chain, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 5 loops.
Light Star (LS): Insert hook into eye of last star made, yo, pull through a loop, insert hook through base (post) of last star, yo, pull through a loop, insert hook into same st as last post of last star, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 5 loops.
Row 5: Change to MC, ch 1, 2 sc in same st, sc
in each ch-sp across, turn. -27 sc
Only work in the chain space when working the next row on a row of Light Star Stitches
Row 6-13: Rep Rows 2-5 twice.
Edge
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in sc in same st, sc in each st
across until 1 st remains, 3 sc in last st, working over row ends evenly sc
across to beg ch, 3 sc in last st, working in unused loops of beg ch, sc in
each chain across, 3 sc in last st, working over row end evenly sc across, 2 sc
in last st, sl st to beg sc, fasten off.
I am really honored to be part of the 2019 Holiday Stashdown. This is the fifth year, that you have weeks worth of pattern to help you work through your stash and get some of your holiday gifts created, and have the opportunity to win prizes.
For my part, I have created a quick cowl, it is worked from the center out with a twist. This makes for only a few rounds, but they are longer than you would expect, since you are almost creating two rounds at once.
Sovereign Cowl
This pattern works up in a medium weight yarn, and in my personal feeling has a bit of a regal feel, maybe it is the picot on the edge, but I know I will be keeping this one myself and wearing it this winter.
Picot: Ch 3, sl
st to the stitch below the ch just created.
Pattern is worked center out, by working on both side of the beginning chain, and add a twist for the mobius.
The Pattern
Ch 103
Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd
ch from hook, sc in each ch across, twist chain, and working in the unused
loops of the beginning chain, sc in the same loops as the first sc of the
round, sc in each unused loop around, join to the first st, turn. -204sc
Rnd 2: Ch 4, [sk
1 st, dc in next st, ch 1] rep around, sl st to join to 3rd ch of
turning ch, turn.
Rnd 3: Sl st to
next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, [sc in next ch-1 sp, 3
dc in next ch-1 sp] rep around, sl st to join to first sc, turn.
Rnd 4: Ch 4, sk 1
dc, sc in next dc, ch 1, [dc in next sc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, ch 1]
rep around, sl st to join, turn.
Rnd 5-7: Rep Rnds
2-4
Rnd 8: Rep Rnd 2
Rnd 9: Sl st to
next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, (2 dc, picot, dc) in next ch-1 sp, [sc in
next ch-1 sp, (2 dc, picot, dc) in next ch-1 sp] rep around, sl st to join to
first sc, fasten off. Weave in ends, block.
Help me help local communities by creating blocks
for Warm Up America,
by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free
pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with
you, I just ask that make one for donation.
Warm Up America is
a nationwide organization that encourages local donations, but will also except
donations to be sent to their office so that blocks can be assembled and then
blankets can be donated through the United States.
Even if you do not want to
participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or
blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community
that accept donations.
Shells in a Row
These simple 5 double crochet shells are just off-set from one
another, but a simple contrasting row of color gives it a different feel, allowing
the for a real stand out.
Medium weight yarn, in 3 colors MC (main color), CC1, CC2
K/10 ½/ 6.5mm hook
Block Pattern
With MC Ch 26
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, [sk
2 chs, 5 dc in next ch, sk 2 chs, sc in next ch] 4 times, turn. -4 (5dc
shells), 5 sc sts
Row 2: Change to CC1, ch
1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -25 sts
Row 3: Change to CC2, ch
3, 2 dc in same st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st, [sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2,
sc in next st] 3 times, sk 2 sts, 3 dc in last st, turn. -3 (5 dc shells) 4 sc
sts, 2 (3 dc half shells)
Row
4:
Change to MC, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn.
Row
5:
Change to CC1, ch 1, sc in same st, [sk 2, 5 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next
st] 4 times, turn. -4 (5dc shells), 5 sc sts
Row
6:
Change to CC2, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn.
Row
7:
Change to MC, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st, [sk 2 sts, 5 dc
in next st, sk 2, sc in next st] 3 times, sk 2 sts, 3 dc in last st, turn. -3
(5 dc shells) 4 sc sts, 2 (3 dc half shells)
Row
8:
Change to CC1, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn.
Row
9:
Change to CC2, ch 1, sc in same st, [sk 2, 5 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next
st] 4 times, turn. -4 (5dc shells), 5 sc sts
Row
10:
Change to MC, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn.
Row
11:
Change to CC1, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, sk
2 sts, sc in next st, [sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next st] 3 times,
sk 2 sts, 3 dc in last st, turn. -3 (5 dc shells) 4 sc sts, 2 (3 dc half
shells)
Row
12:
Change to CC2, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn.
Row
13:
Change to MC, ch 1, sc in same st, [sk 2, 5 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next st]
4 times, turn, do not fasten off. -4 (5dc shells), 5 sc sts
Edge
Rnd
1: Ch
1, sc in sc in same st, sc in each st across until 1 st remains, 3 sc in last
st, working over row ends evenly sc across to beg ch, 3 sc in last st, working
in unused loops of beg ch, sc in each chain across, 3 sc in last st, working
over row end evenly sc across, 2 sc in last st, sl st to beg sc, fasten off.
Does it matter which way I turn? Do I have to chain first?
These are two common questions that any crochet instructor is asked when
teaching the basics.
My typical answer is, “as long as you are consistent, it
does not matter”, but that is not quite true.
The reason I give my answer above, is because I know that
the student is taking in a lot of information and do not want to overwhelm them
with small details that may discourage, and in the long run it really may not
make a difference in your work.
However, there are some subtle difference to the direction
you turn your fabric and effects of your fabric. I am primarily writing from
the view point of right handed crocheter, but in the parentheses I note the
left handed viewpoint).
Turning Your Fabric
The standard way to turn your fabric it to turn it like the
page of a book (like you have been reading the last page of the book and need to
turn back to the beginning). Turning this direction keeps the working yarn to
the back of the fabric, in the same manner of placement as when you complete
your crochet stitch.
Turning like a page of the book (right handed)
Turning the fabric in the opposite direction the working
yarn is placed in the front of the fabric. While you can still create a stitch
creating a yarn over feels a bit different, maybe even awkward. This placement
also sets up some challenges depending on what stitch is being worked next.
Turning the page backward (right handed)
I have primarily found this with working a back loop single
crochet. By having the working yarn in the front of the work, it can make it difficult
to get the hook placement in the first back loop as it is not readily apparent
and thus this stitch may be skipped.
To Chain or Turn
So, then to turn and chain, or chain and then turn? As long
as you are only turning 180° there is no real apparent difference.
In either case, if the chain is created on a fabric that has the yarn to the
front of the work, the back side of the chain is facing forward. If the fabric
is created with the working yarn to the back the chain will appear to have a
slight twist.
The chain created when the fabric is turned like a book (right handed)…notice how the back of the chain (the bumps) are facing the edge and there is a slight twist.The chain created when the fabric is turned in the opposite direction of a page (right handed)- notice how the back of the chain (the bumps) are facing you
So to summarize, if you find that the first stitch of a row
feels a bit different than the other stitches, check the way you are turning
and see if it makes a difference, but do not worry about when and how you
chain, it works the same either way.
