Radiate Champion- Moogly CAL 2026

Posted on January 22, 2026 by webmaster

I am honored to be part of the Moogly CAL 2026, and thank you for joining along. The Radiate Champion block is in recognition of all the people that have helped champion me in the last year.

I have been fortunate enough to find many friends in the classes I teach. Friends from various walks of life that encourage and support one another, myself included.

I hope that you reach out and find a “tribe” in your community. The tribe can take many forms and include people that upon first glance may not appear to fit into your life, but if you give them an opportunity you might just discover that they are your biggest cheerleader.

If you want to join my tribe, consider joining my newsletter to keep up on my happenings, or join me in person at one of my various classes around the country and world.

Also, don’t miss any of the Moogly CAL 2026 blocks, they can all be found here.

Radiate Champion Block

Madeline Tosh Vintage medium weight 100% superwash merino yarn colors: (A) Carbon Dating, (B) Thyme, (C) Schnitzelfaced, (D) Translation
J/10/6.mm crochet hook

Abbreviations

Ssc= Standing single crochet

Cluster (CL)- YO twice, insert hook as if a Front post around first indicated st, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), YO twice, insert hook as if Front post around next indicated st, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops (5 loops on hook), YO twice, insert hook as if Front Post around last indicated st, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops (7 loops on hook), YO, pull through 6 loops, YO, pull through last 2 loops.

Notes

Not every row is turned, however, there is a turn at the end or each rnd 2 and 3 rep.

All CL and FPtr sts are worked in color A, into rows that are color A.

The CL stitch can cause the fabric to not lay flat, blocking helps. If it seems like there is a lot of puckering, pull the YO loops up higher for the CL sts.

Let’s Get Started!

Rnd 1 (WS): With A, Ch 4, 2 dc in 4^th ch from hook, [ch 2, 3 dc in same ch] rep 3 times, ch 2, join. Fasten off. – 12 dc (3 dc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 2: With B, ssc in any ch-2 sp, dc in same sp,{ [sc in next st, dc in next st] across until 1 st rem, sc in last st, (dc, sc, ch 2, sc, dc) in ch-2 sp} rep 3 times, [sc in next st, dc in next st] across until 1 st rem, sc in last st, (dc, sc, ch 2) in ch-2 sp, join, turn . – 7 sts per side, 4 ch-2 sps

Don’t miss the turn…

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in ch-2 sp, {[dc in next sc, sc in next dc] across until 1 st rem, dc in last st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp} rep 3 times, [dc in next sc, sc in next dc] until 1 st rem, dc in last st, sc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, fasten off, turn. –9 sts per side, 4 ch-2 sps

Now turn back….

Rnd 4: With A, ssc in any ch-2 sp, [sc in next 4 sts, CL around 3 dc of Row 1, skip st directly behind CL, sc in last 4 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp] rep 3 times, sc in next 4 sts, CL around 3 dc of Row 1, skip st directly behind CL, sc in last 4 sts, sc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join. Fasten off. –11 sts per side (1 CL per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnds 5-6: With C, Rep Rnds 2 & 3. –17 sts per side, 4 ch-2 sps

Time for some Front Posts to create some inverted triangles

Rnd 7: With A, ssc in any ch-2 sp, [sc in next 5 sts, skip the first sc of Row 4, CL over next 3 sc sts of Row 4, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next st, 3FPtr around CL of Row 4, skip 3 sts directly behind post sts, sc in next st, skip next sc of Row 4 CL over next 3 sc of Row 4, skip st directly behind CL, sc in last 5 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp] rep 3 times, sc in next 4 sts, skip the first sc of Row 4 CL over next 3 sc sts of Row 4, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next st, 3FPtr around CL of Row 4, skip 3 sts directly behind post sts, sc in next st, skip next sc of Row 4 CL over next 3 sc of Row 4, skip st directly behind CL, sc in last 5 sts, sc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, fasten off. –19 sts per side (2 CL, 3 FPtr per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnds 8-9: With D, Rep Rnds 2 & 3. -25 sts per side, 4 ch-2 sps

Back to some Radiate Champion Clusters

Rnd 10: With A, ssc in any ch-2 sp, [sc in next 5 sts, skip the first two sc of Row 7, CL over next 3 sc of Row 7, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next st, 3 FPtr around CL of Row 7, skip 3 sts behind post st, sc in next 5 sts, 3 FPtr around next CL st of Row 7, skip 3 sts behind post sts, sc in next st, skip the next sc of Row 7, CL over the next 3 sc of Row 7, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next 5 sts, (sc, ch-2, sc) in ch-2 sp] rep 3 times, sc in next 5 sts, skip the first two sc of Row 7, CL over next 3 sc of Row 7, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next st, 3 FPtr around CL of Row 7, skip 3 sts behind post st, sc in next 5 sts, 3 FPtr around next CL st of Row 7, skip 3 sts behind post sts, sc in next st, skip the next sc of Row 7, CL over the next 3 sc of Row 7, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next 5 sts, sc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, fasten off. –27sts per side (2 CL, 6 FPtr per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnds 11-12: With C, rep Rnds 2 & 3. – 33 sts per side, 4 ch-2 sps

Do you see the back and forth yet?

Rnd 13: With A, ssc in any ch-2 sp, [sc in next 6 sts, skip the first 2 sc of Rnd 10, CL over next 3 sc of Rnd 10, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next st, 3 FPtr around CL of Rnd 10, skip 3 sts behind post st, sc in next 11 sts, 3 FPtr around CL of Rnd 10, skip 3 sts directly behind post sts, sc in next st, sk 1 sc of Row 10, CL over next 3 sc sts of Rnd 10, skip st directly behind CL, sc in last 6 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp] rep 3 times, sc in next 6 sts, skip the first 2 sc of Rnd 10, CL over next 3 sc of Rnd 10, skip st direcly behind CL, sc in next st, 3 FPtr around CL of Rnd 10, skip 3 sts behind post st, sc in next 11 sts, 3 FPtr around CL of Rnd 10, skip 3 sts direcly behind post sts, sc in next st, sk 1 sc of Rnd 10, CL over next 3 sc sts of Rnd 10, skip st directly behind CL, sc in last 6 sts, sc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, fasten off. – 35 sts per side (2 CL, 6 FPtr per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnds 14-15: With B rep Rows 2 & 3. –41 sts per side, 4 ch-2 sps

Let’s finish up!

Rnd 16: With A, ssc in any ch-2 sp, [sc in next 6 sts, skip the first 3 sc of Rnd 13, CL over next 3 sc of Rnd 13, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next st, 3 FPtr around CL of Rnd 13, skip 3 sts directly behind post sts, sc in next 19 sts, 3 Fptr around CL of Rnd 13, skip 3 sts behind post st, sc in next st, skip next sc of Rnd 13, CL over next 3 sc of Rnd 13, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next 6 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp] rep 3 times, sc in next 6 sts, skip the first 3 sc of Rnd 13, CL over next 3 sc of Rnd 13, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next st, 3 FPtr around CL of Rnd 13, skip 3 sts directly behind post sts, sc in next 19 sts, 3 Fptr around CL of Rnd 13, skip 3 sts behind post st, sc in next st, skip next sc of Rnd 13, CL over next 3 sc of Rnd 13, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next 6 sts, sc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, fasten off. – 43 sts per side (2 CL, 6 FPtr per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Weave in ends, block.

Walking Pathways- A Free Blanket Pattern

Posted on April 28, 2025 by webmaster

I found a stitch pattern that I really got into a rhythm working. I could keep working it for hours, with the Walking Pathways Throw. The cluster row might be a bit involved. But following it up with a simple row keeps it fun.

What brings this throw to life however is the edging, featuring a horizontal cable in a contrasting color.

So way it was made

I created the original of this design for a long time friend. We reconnected with just as they were moving across the country. The throws that followed were made for others that hold a special place in my heart.

It has taken me a while to actually get this design written and out in the world. This is mostly because the horizontal cable is not completely straight forward to write. I have managed to complete a visual post about it (see it here). You will also find a link to a video to help explain to further.

Some of my students have taken up the stitch pattern of the body, loving the subtle texture. They have played with varying stripes of color. It really does lend itself to many possibilities.

The name comes from my personal walk of figuring out midlife. All the differing paths this journey of life has been taking me on.

The Pattern

Walking Pathways Throw by Linda Dean

A relatively simple 2 row repeat gets an eye catching and rhythmic edging of a horizontal cable. Quicker to work than you might think, this throw will be a delight.

Size 46”x 60” (including a 2” boarder all the way around)

Skill intermediate

Gauge 10 CL sts/ 9 rows 4”

Materials

K/10 ½ /6.5 mm crochet hook
Berroco Vintage medium weight, 52% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 8%Nylon yarn (3.5oz/100g/218yd/200m) per ball; 12 skeins MC #5189 Charcoal and 2 skeins (divided in half) of CC #5194 Breezeway

Special Stitches

Foundation Double Crochet Cluster (FCL): Yo, insert hook in chain/base of previous stitch, yo, pull up a loop, ch 1 (creates base of current stitch), yo, pull through 2 loops, [yo, insert hook into chain/base of current stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loop] twice, yo, pull through 4 loops.

Double Crochet Cluster (CL): [Yo, insert hook into st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] rep 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Standing Half Double Crochet (Shdc): Yo, hold yo on hook, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Reverse Single Crochet (Rsc): Working in the opposite direction as normal, insert hook into next stitch and complete a single crochet.

Let’s Start The Main Body

Row 1:

Version1: With MC, chain 205, CL in 5th ch from hook, [sk 1 ch, CL in next ch] rep across until 2 chs rem, sk 1 ch, dc in last st, turn. -100 CL, 2 dc

Version 2: With MC, ch 4, FCL in 4^th ch from hook, FCL 99 times, Fdc. -100CL, 2 dc

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, CL next st, CL in each st across until 1 st rem, dc in last st, turn.

Rows 4-119: Rep Rows 2 & 3, 58 times. Do not fasten off.

Let’s Start the Edging

Rnd 1: Working down edge, sc in the ends of the rows evenly across to corner, 3 sc in corner, sc in unused loops of foundation chain to corner, 3 sc in corner, sc in ends of rows evenly across to corner, 3 sc in corner, sc across last row 3 sc in last st, sl st to join, fasten off.

Work Horizontal Braid using 4 different balls of CC- each ball will need to be at least 26 grams in weight. For a step by step of how to work the braid, please check out this post, which will have a link to a video if needed. To ensure that the corners do not cup, make note of the corners in this post as well.

Braided Edging featuring a horizontal cable

Let’s start the Braid…or Cable

Rnd A: With CC, join to any st on edge with a Shdc, hdc in next 6 sts, remove hook from loop and bring yarn to front of fabric. Work Rnd B

Rnd B: With CC, join to back bar first hdc of Rnd A with a Shdc, hdc in back bar of each hdc across, remove hook from loop and bring yarn to front of fabric. Work Rnd C

Rnd C: With CC, join to back bar of first hdc of Rnd B with a Shdc, hdc in back bar of each hdc across, hdc in next 7 sts of edging Rnd 1, remove hook from loop and bring yarn to front of fabric. Work Rnd D

Rnd D: With CC, join to back bar of first hdc of Rnd C with a Shdc, hdc in back bar of each hdc across, remove hook from loop and bring yarn to front of fabric. Work Rnd A1

This is where you can start repeating

Rnd A1: Pick up working loop of Rnd A, working in back bar of hdc of Rnd D hdc in each st across, hdc in next 7 sts of edging Rnd 1, remove hook from loop and bring yarn to front of fabric. Work Rnd B1

Rnd B1: Pick up working loop of Rnd B, working in back bar, hdc in each st across, remove hook from loop and bring yarn to front of fabric. Work Rnd C1

Rnd C1: Pick up working loop of Rnd C, working in back bar of hdc of Rnd B hdc in each st across, hdc in next 7 sts of edging Rnd 1, remove hook from loop and bring yarn to front of fabric. Work Rnd D1

Rnd D1: Pick up loop of Rnd D, working in back bar of hdc, hdc in each st across, remove hook from loop and bring yarn to from of fabric. Work Rnd A1

Repeat Rnds A1-D1 round, join to the corresponding Round, Fasten off all 4 rounds.

Time to finish this up

Rnd 2: With MC join to back bar of any stitch with a Shdc, working in back bar hdc in each st around, join, fasten off.

Rnd 3: With CC join to any st, ch 1, Rsc around edge, fasten off.

Weave in all ends. Block if desired.

Granny Square – Some Ideas and New Approaches.

Posted on September 5, 2024 by webmaster

Granny Squares never really go out of fashion, but there are times they are all the rage. We are entering the rage time.

There are many ways to work a traditional granny square. They can be worked as one color or many. They can be work as join-as-you-go or sewn together later. Even the relatively simple stitch pattern as some variation.

I have stumbled across some techniques that I find handy when creating granny squares. When working in one color I prefer either working in the continuous round, or working half a corner and joining with a crochet stitch instead of a chain (this places the working yarn in the center of the corner without having to slip stitch across).

When working different colors each round I have found that joining with standing stitches really helps to give a nice clean look.

If you would like to try a hand at the granny square, check out this free pattern for my Granny Mug Jacket.

Granny Square Free Pattern

Granny Mug Jacket by Linda Dean

Embrace autumn and crochet classics with this Granny Square Mug Jacket. This design is simple, classic, and stylish all wrapped together.

Size 3” tall x 9” wide Skill beginning Materials G/6/4.00mm crochet hook, 4 colors Jamieson’s Naturally Shetland Double Knitting yarn Gauge Motif=3″x3″

Motif (make 3)

Rnd 1: Ch 4, 2 dc in 4^th ch from hook, ch 2, [3 dc in same st, ch 2] 3 times, join, fasten off.

Rnd 2: Join to any ch-2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp, ch 1, [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp) ch 1] 3 times, join, fasten off.

Are you changing colors?

Rnd 3: Join to any ch-2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp, 3 dc in ch-1 sp [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp), 3 dc inch-1 sp] 3 times, join, fasten off.

Lets get ready to join

Rnd 4: Join to any ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in same sp, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in each st across to ch-2 sp] 2 times, join, fasten off.

Join Motifs together creating a strip.

Weave in ends. Block as desired.

Two Different Closures

Edging

Loop Closure

Joint to any ch-2 corner, to work down the long edge, ch 1, sc in same sp, sl st in each st along long edge to other corner, sc in corner, ch 15, sk entire short edge of rectangle, sc in next corner, sl st across long edge of rectangle, sc in corner, ch 5, sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

Button Closure

Join to any ch-2 corner to work down the short edge, ch 1, sc in same corner, sc in next 2 sts, ch 10, sc in next 6 sts, ch 10, in rem sts on side to corner, sl st in each st around rectangle to first sc, join. Fasten off.

Sew two ½” buttons on the opposite side of the loops.

Info about the photo

So whenever I put up photos that show my kitchen counters, I get questions. It is a granite countertop, but the most questions come up about my back splash. It is actually tin that is treated to look like copper, and comes from the company American Tin Ceiling. I have had it for several years, it is easy to maintain and cheaper then tile, not to mention easier to install. No, I get no kick backs from this company, but I usually get a lot of questions.

Corner to Corner in the Round

Posted on November 30, 2023 by webmaster

Corner to Corner in the round is a great technique that lends itself to a fun look while being a relaxing project. This technique was brought to my attention by one of my students, as she was asking how to create it. After some research I discover it here.

Essentially you are creating the beginning of 4 corner to corner blankets at the same time. You only have to work the increases, and just increase from the one corner of a blanket, to then work the next increase of the next blanket.

The first few rounds can be a bit fiddly, but after that it becomes pretty easy.

Getting Started

To get started you create a chain 7, dc in the 4^th chain from the hook, and in each ch across. There will be 4 dc and the turning chain.

Now chain 3, and rotate the little block clockwise if your right handed, counter-clockwise if you are left, so that you work the next 4 double crochet in around the post of the last dc created. Work these 4 double crochets.

Now 3 bocks

Rotate the blocks again in the same fashion, chain 3, and work 4 dc around the post of the last dc created. You will now have 3 blocks.

Rotate the blocks one more time, chain 3 and work 3 dc around the last double crochet post created.

The number of stitches changed in the last block because there is no new block to be created in this round, the reason all the previous blocks had 4 double crochets is because the last double crochet created is to be a base for the next block. As there is no new block after the 4^th, it only needs 3 stitches.

Now slip stitch to the top of the adjacent square.

In my samples I have changed colors at this point, but you can easily continue with the same yarn.

Round 2

Turn the work like a page of a book, just like you do with your other crochet projects. Chain 6, dc in 4^th chain from hook, and in each chain across. Now slip stitch to the opposite corner of the same block in round 1, this is the next corner from the chain.

Rotate the blocks again, and chain 3. Work 4 dc in the side of the next block in round 1. Chain 3, and rotate the blocks again, work 3 dc around the post of the last dc made. Slip stitch to the next corner in round 1. This process is repeated for all or Round 2. Slip Stitch to join at the top of the corner of the adjacent block.

Round 3 and Beyond

Beginning Round 3 is the same process, turn the work like a page of a book. Chain 6 dc in the 4^th chain from the hook, and in each chain across. Now slip stitch to the opposite corner of the same block in round 2, this is the next corner from the chain.

Rotate the blocks again, and chain 3. Work 3 dc in the side of the next block, and skip stitch to the top of the next adjacent block. I refer to this as filling in the blocks, in the rounds after Round 3, there will be more steps, but you work them the same.

When you get to the top step, the top step created will be the first side worked into on the next rotation, so after creating a chain 3, work 4 dc in the side of the next block in the round below. Chain 3, and rotate the blocks again, work 3 dc around the post of the last dc made. Slip stitch to the next corner in round 1. This process is repeated for all or Round 3 and all subsequent rounds. Slip Stitch to join at the top of the corner of the adjacent block.

Free Pattern

I have worked up a couple of toddler blankets in this technique. If you would like to work them, I have outlined the yarn and color changes I used below, but I used the pattern technique listed above.

Radiant Rounds Lapghan

Working corner to corner in the round creates a fun and easy blanket. The materials and pattern will make 2 blankets reversing the color orders.

Size: 41” square

Materials

Scheepjes Colour Crafter medium weigh 100% Acrylic yarn (100g/3.5oz/300m/328yrds)
- 5 skeins #1002 Ede (A),
- 1 skein each:
  - #1123 Roermond (B),
  - #2002 Gent (C),
  - #2004 Brussel (D),
  - #1116 Emmen (E),
  - #1117 Delft (F),
  - #1425 Deventer (G)
H/8/5.00mm crochet hook

Pattern

Rnd 1: With A, ch 7, dc in 4^th ch from hook, and each ch across, rotate (clockwise if right handed, counter-clockwise if left handed), ch 3, 4 dc around post of last dc created, rotate, ch 3, 4 dc around port of last dc created, rotate, ch 3, 3 dc around post of last dc created, sl st to adjacent block, turn.

Rnd 2: Ch 6, dc in 4^th ch from hook, and each ch across, sl st opposite corner of block below, rotate, [ch 3, 4 dc around post of block below, ch 3, rotate, 3 dc around post of last dc created, sl st to adjacent block] 3 times, ch 3, 3 dc around post of block below, sl st to top of adjacent block, turn.

Rnd 3-42: Ch 6, dc in 4^th ch from hook, and each ch across, sl st to opposite corner of block below, {rotate, [ch 3, 3 dc around post of stitch below for each step block until top step] across to corner, ch 3, 4 dc around post of stitch in block below, rotate, ch 3, dc in around post of stitch just created, sl st to adjacent block} 2 times, [ch 3, 3 dc around post of stitch below for each step block until top step] across to corner, ch 3, 3 dc around post of stitch in block below, sl st to top of adjacent block, turn.

Fasten off at the end of Rnd 42

Weave in ends, block if desired.

Color Sequence (lapghan 1/ lapghan 2)

Rnd 1-2: A
Rnds 3-4: B/G
Rnds 5-6: A
Rnd 7-8: C/F
Rnds 9-10: A
Rnds 11-12: D/E
Rnd 13-14: A
Rnds 15-16: E/D
Rnds 17-18: A
Rnd 19-20: F/C
Rnds 21-22: A
Rnds 23-24: G/B
Rnd 25-26: A
Rnds 27-28: G/B
Rnds 29-30: A
Rnd 31-32: F/C
Rnds 33-34: A
Rnds 35-36: E/D
Rnd 37: A
Rnds 38: D/E
Rnds 39: A
Rnd 40: C/F
Rnds 41: A
Rnds 42: B/G

Jan’s Joy-Full Jamboree Block- Moogly CAL 2023

Posted on January 19, 2023 by webmaster

Wow! I am so excited to join you for another year of the Moogly CAL (check out all the squares here). This year my block has a few ends to weave in, and it uses more back post stitches than some may be accustom to. However I am happy with the results and I hope you like it too.

This block features texture work more than actual color work. Meaning if you want to work this block in only one color it will still be just as dramatic. Back Post Stitches are utilized as it really helps to add a great amount of textural and visual interest. The result of the stitch creates an raised affect that can be reminiscent of surface crochet. Tops of the stitches below become highlighted, adding the “chain” look on the surface of the fabric.

Much of the remaining texture comes form working cluster stitches in places below the actual working round. I really love how this breaks up the visual rounds of the fabric and help add a continuous lines of texture. They almost act as “links” helping the eye dance along various “features”.

The block is named for two of my long time students, Jan and Joy. Both have had a trying year, yet crochet has continued to be an outlet. As many of us already realize crochet can be our therapy, just the movement of our hands help our mind. Fortunately it can do even more, by bringing people together. I look forward to seeing them at our weekly jamboree and helping them on their crochet journeys.

If you want to follow my journey in crochet, join my monthly newsletter, or join me in a class at various places around the United States.

Jan’s Joy-Full Jamboree Block

Materials

Red Heart With Love medium weight 100% acrylic yarn colors: (A) #1907 Boy
senberry, (B) #1702 Blush, (C) #1623 Mallard, (D) #1207 Cornsilk
J/10/6.00mm

Special Stitches

Treble Crochet 3 Cluster (tr3CL): Yo twice, insert hook into indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo twice, insert hook into same st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo twice, insert hook into same st, yo pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops.

Treble Crochet 2 Together (tr2tog): Yo twice, insert hook into the first indicated stitch, yo pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo twice, insert hook into the next stitch indicated, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo, pull through all 3 loops.

Abbreviations

Blhdc= back loop half double crochet
Blsc= back loop single crochet
Bpdc= back post double crochet
Bphdc= back post half double crochet
Bpsc= back post single crochet
Sbpdc= standing back post double crochet
Sdc= standing double crochet
Shdc= standing half double crochet
Ssc= standing single crochet

If you do not feel comfortable with standing stitches, they can be substituted by simply slip stitching to the indicated stitch, and creating a chain equivalent to the turning chain for the indicated stitch type. But if you want to learn about them, I offer a photo tutorial here. And Moogly offers a video here.

Pattern for this block of the Moogly CAL

Rnd 1: With A, Ch 5, dc in 5^th ch from hook, ch 1 (dc in same st, ch 1) 6 times, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 dc, 8 ch-1 sps

Rnd 2: With B, join to any dc with a ssc, 3fpdc in same dc, (sc, 3 fpdc in each dc around, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 sc, 24 fpdc

Rnd 2, work 3 front post double crochets around the same stitch

Rnd 3: With C, join to any sc with a shdc, ch 2, hdc in same st, ch 1, [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next sc, ch 1] around, sl st to join. – 8 (hdc, ch 2, hdc), 8 ch-1 sps

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same sp, 5 dc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next hdc, ch 1, [sc in next hdc, 5 dc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next hdc, ch 1] rep around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 (5 dc shells), 8 ch-1 sps

Finished Round 3, and beginning of Round 4

We work our first Clusters in this Moogly CAL

Rnd 5: With D, join with a sbpdc to the first dc of any 5-dc shell, bpdc in the next 4 dc sts, ch 1, tr3CL in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (in Rnd 3), ch 1, [bpdc in each dc on next shell, ch 1, tr3CL in the ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (in Rnd 3), ch 1,] around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 tr3CL, 40 bpdc, 16 ch-1 sps

Working Rnd 5, the tr3CL works around the ch-1 sp in Rnd 3

Finished the tr3CL and started the next bpdc

Rnd 6: With A, join with a ssc to a bpdc just before a tr3Cl, [tr2tog in the next sc 2 rows below (Rnd 4) and in the next sc 2 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), sc in each bpdc] around, sl st to join. –8 tr2tod, 40 sc,

First insertion point for the tr2tog worked in rnd 4

Rnd 7: Sl st in tr2tog st, ch 5, (tr, ch 1) 3 times in same st, tr in same st, ch 1, sk 2 sc, blsc in next sc, [ch, 1 (tr, ch 1) 4 times in next tr2tog, tr in same st, sk 2 sc, ch 1, blsc in next sc] around, ch 1, sl st to 4^th ch of ch 5 to join, fasten off. –8 (tr, ch 1) fans, 8 sc

Back Post stitches create an interesting checker of color

Rnd 8: With B, join with a sbpdc to the 1^st tr of any fan, dc in ch-1 sp, bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, 2 bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch- 1 sp, bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, bpdc in next tr, tr3Cl in unused front loop of sc 3 rnds below (Rnd 6), [bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, bpdc innext tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, 2 bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch- 1 sp, bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, bpdc in next tr, tr3Cl in unused front loop of sc 3 rnds below (Rnd 6)] around, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 tr3cl, 48 bpdc, 32 dc

Rnd 8, location of tr3CL in front loop of Rnd 6

Rnd 8 after working the tr3Cl…don’t forget the 2 bpdc at the top of the fan

Lets Start Squaring Things Up

Rnd 9: With C, join with a sdc to any of the 1^st bpdc of the center of fan (the 2 bpdc worked in the same st), ch 2, dc in next bpsc (corner made), bpdc in next 4 sts, tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, bpdc in the next 2 sts,tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 4 sts, [dc in next bpdc, ch 2, dc in next bpdc (corner made), bpdc in next 4 sts, tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, bpdc in the next 2 sts,tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 4 sts] 3 times, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 tr2tog, 8 sc

Watch the stitch changes, we are flattening out the sides

Rnd 10: With D, join with sdc in any corner ch-2 sp, ch 2, dc in same sp, [bpdc in next 6 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp of corner] 3 times, bpdc in next 6 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, sl st to join.

Rnd 11: Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 corner, dc in each st across to corner, [(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 corner sp, dc in each st across] around, sl st to join, fasten off. –104 dc (26 dc each side)

On the Home Stretch, the Moogly CAL block is almost done…

Rnd 12: With C, join with shdc in any corner ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in same st, [blhdc in next 7 sts, tr3Cl in the top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9) (note: skip the stitch directly behind the cluster, here and throughout), blhdc in next 10 sts, tr3Cl in top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9), blhdc in next 7 sts, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 corner sp] 3 times, blhdc in next 7 sts, tr3Cl in the top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9), blhdc in next 10 sts, tr3Cl in top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9), blhdc in next 7 sts, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 tr3Cl

Rnd 13: With A, join with ssc in any ch-2 corner, ch 2, sc in same sp, blsc in each st across, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 corner sp, blsc in each st across] around, sl st to join, fasten off. –116 sc (29 sc each side)

Check out all the blocks for this year’s Moogly CAL! This is going to be fun!