Category Archives: Patterns/Design Thoughts

Phoenix Poncho- Free Pattern

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I think everyone needs a little pick me up in July, so I am releasing my latest free pattern. I hope to brightens the dances of your hook.

Worked from the neck outward, this is a poncho that easily adds a bit of flare to any wardrobe. The simple stitch pattern lends to great coloring pooling and a fabulous drape.

Phoenix Poncho

Size

40” square

Skill Level

Intermediate

Gauge

5 (sc, ch-3) sts/ 13 rows=4”

Materials

  • H/8/5.0 mm crochet hook
  • Alexandra The Art if Yarn Silverton Fine weight 75% Superwash Merino/ 15% Nylon/ 10% Tencel yarn (434yrds/397m/3.5oz/100g) 1 skein each color Wine (A), Fire (B)

Notes

When joining at the end of round 1 ensure that the round is not twisted.

Neck Edging is worked as four separated corner points.

Pattern

Rnd 1: With A, ch 150, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 36 chs, [ch 2 (corner made), dc in next 37 chs] rep 3 times, ch 2, sl st to top of beg ch, (weave tail into base of the beg chain to close ring) change to B.  – 148 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

A little bit of an airy stitch…

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, {[ch 3, sk 3, sc in next st] rep across to ch-2 corner, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-2 sp, ch 1, sc in next st,} 3 times,  [ch 3, sk 3, sc in next st] rep across to ch-2 corner, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-2 sp, ch 1, sl st to join. – 40 (ch-3) sps, 8 (ch-1) sps

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, {[ch 3, sc in next sc] across to corner, ch 3, dc in ch-3 sp of corner} rep 4 times, ch 3, sc in next sc, ch 3, sl st to join.  – 4 dc, 52 (ch-3)sps

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st, {[ch 3, sc in next sc] across to corner, ch 3, (sc, ch 3, sc) in dc} rep 4 times, ch 3, sc in next sc, ch 3, sl st to join, change to A.

Making it a bit more solid…

Rnd 5: Ch 3, {[3 dc in ch-3 sp, dc in sc] rep across to corner, ch 3, dc in ch-3 corner sp, ch 3, dc in sc} rep 4 times, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, dc in sc, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, sl st to join.

Rnd 6: Ch 3, [dc in each dc across to corner, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, (dc, ch 3, dc) in dc, 3 dc in ch-3 sp] rep 4 times, dc across to first st, sl st to join.

Rnd 7: Ch 3, [dc in each dc across to corner, ch 3, dc in ch-3 sp, ch 3] rep 4 times, dc across to first st, sl st to join, change to B.

Phoenix Poncho

Back to being airy…

Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in same st, {[ch 3, sk 3, sc in next st] rep across to corner, ch 3, (sc, ch 3, sc) in dc, ch 3, sc in next dc} rep 4 times, [ch 3, sk 3, sc in next st] 3 times, sl st to join.

Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in same st, {[ch 3, sc in next sc] across to corner, ch 3, dc in ch-3 sp of corner} rep 4 times, ch 3, [sc in next sc, ch 3] across to first st, sl st to join.

Rnd 10:  Ch 1, sc in same st, {[ch 3, sc in next sc] across to corner, ch 3, (sc, ch 3, sc) in dc} rep 4 times, ch 3, [sc in next sc, ch 3] rep across to first st, sl st to join.

Rnd 11-14: Rep Rnds 9 & 10.

Rnd 15: Rep Rnd 9, changing to A at join.

A bit of solid…

Rnd 16: Ch 3, {[3 dc in ch-3 sp, dc in sc] rep across to corner, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, (dc, ch 3, dc) in dc} rep 4 times, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, [dc in sc, 3 dc in ch-3 sp] rep across to first st, sl st to join, change to B.

Needs to be airy…

Rnd 17: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnds 18-33: Rep Rnds 9 & 10, change to A at the join of Rnd 33.

Rnd 34: Rep Rnd 9.

Rnd 35: Rep Rnd 16.

Let’s finish it up…

Rnd 36: Sl st in next st, ch 3, dc in next 4 sts, ch 1 sk 1, {[dc in next 5 sts, ch 1, sk 1] rep across to corner, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch- 3 sp, ch 1, sk 1} rep 4 times, [dc in next 5 sts, ch 1, sk 1] across to first st, sl st to join.

Rnd 37: Sl st in next st, ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, {[ch 3, sk dc, sk ch-1 sp, sk dc, dc in next 3 dc] rep across to corner, ch 3, sk dc, sk ch-1 sp, sk dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in ch-1 sp} rep 4 times, [ch 3, sk dc, sk ch-1 sp, sk dc, dc in next 3 dc] across to first st, ch 3, sl st to join.

Rnd 38: Sl st in next st, ch 5, (dc, ch 2, dc) in same st, sc in ch-3 sp, sk next dc, {[(dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc) in next dc, sc in ch-3 sp] across to corner, sk next dc (dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc) in corner dc, sc in ch-3 sp} rep 4 times, [(dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc) in next dc, sc in ch-3 sp] across to first st, sl st to join. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Neck Edging, Work in each corner

Row 1: From any corner, join with B to stitch 7 away from corner, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in corner, sk next 6 sts, dc in next st, turn.

Edging: Ch 2 sc in base of dc, ch 3, sk 3 sts of neck, sc in next st, turn, ch 5, dc in center dc of Row 1, ch 1, dc in same st, ch 5, sk 3 sts from join of Row 1, sc in next st, turn, ch 3, sc in join of Row 1, ch 2, sl st to center dc in Row 1. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Making Fingerless Gloves

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Have a little yarn? Needing a quick gift? Want to get ready for cold weather? Crochet Fingerless gloves are the prefect answer.

I have created a few patterns for fingerless, and even fingered gloves over the years, but you can create your own custom fit pair pretty easily. All you need to do is create a rectangle.

That seems almost a little too simple, but this version of fingerless gloves really are that simple.

Want to follow a pattern instead, here are some of my glove patterns:

Types of Gloves

There are essentially two different approaches to creating gloves. One is to work in the round, making a tube. This approach needs a little more attention to detail, as the tube needs to adjust in size a bit to feel like a nice fit. When working from the cuff to palm there needs to be an increase a couple of rounds before the thumb and then create a loop for the thumb, while decrease a couple of stitches to help the gloves fit the fingers.

However if you work a rectangle in the length you want your gloves and continue until the width can wrap around your hand, then you can make a glove.

Pin the fabric on either side the thumb and seam the fabric together on either side.

Make your Gloves

This rectangle can be created in any stitch pattern, so you have complete creative control. If you want a bit of extra stretch I would recommend working a fabric of back loop single crochet. It offers a ribbing like effect and allows for a comfortable fit.

Then the beginning row is folded over to the last row. I place my hand in this fold and use stitch markers to mark either side of my thumb, essentially marking the opening for my thumb. Then it is as simple as seaming the edges together with the exception of the thumb opening.

It really is that simple.

I have found to step these gloves up a bit more, I find a yarn that has a great color change, or nice texture. This makes the rectangle that can really be something that is fabulous.

Tunisian Crochet -Building Skills in Designs

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Tunisian Crochet is a technique that always has something bold to offer. It seems to be a bit cyclical in the design world, making a splash every few years. With every splash creating a great surge in creativity, and the new digital release of The Tunisian Collect from I Like Crochet Magazine is no exception.

I am fortunate enough to have 2 designs in this publication.

A Teenager Loved Pillow

The Cozy At Home Tunisian Tassel Pillow is one that my teenage son liked enough that he had me make some for his room (this is always a huge reward for my work…that the kids actually like it). It really only uses two Tunisian stitches, a Simple Stitch and a Purl Stitch to create this visual effect. In addition it uses a large hook size, so it works up pretty quickly.

Cozy At Home Tunisian Tassel Pillow

I like the edging that seams the two sides as you work it, and the tassels were a definite highlight for my son, so maybe it is a new trending feature.

A Fun Hat

The In The Round Tunisian Full Stitch Hat is one that is a real skill builder. It works what I mistakenly thought was the most basic stitch in Tunisian until I learned more about it, the Full Stitch. This stitch creates a pattern of little lines that do not directly stack atop one another, but are off-set. I have always loved the look.

In The Round Tunisian Full Stitch Hat

This pattern though has a little twist, it is worked in the round. Working in the round is not something that is commonly worked in Tunisian crochet, as it is a technique worked by loading up loops on the hook and then working it back off. So you never turn the work, and it is easiest to work flat.

However I have shared some tips to working in the round, and this pattern puts it to use.

I hope you enjoy these projects and use them to build your skills in the area of Tunisian Crochet.

Softie Crochet- Jack the Rabbit Free Pattern

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I have always had a soft spot for Rabbits, and as such I have always loved this time of year as it brings out Easter Bunnies everywhere. I have created a simple free pattern for a toy bunny, that might be just perfect for a little one in your life. This is an amigurumi for the beginner, as it has minimal shaping, I like the rustic charm.

Jack the Scrap Rabbit and Jack the Rabbit

This free pattern is part of the 2020 Softie CAL! There are many great designs to keep you inspired, check all of them out here. Also, don’t miss the giveaways.

Materials

Lion Brand Basic Stitch Premium 100% acrylic medium weight yarn (3.5 oz/100g/219yd/200m) colors: MC-#126 Goldmine, CC1-#98 Cream, CC2-#142 Boysenberry, CC3- #109 Coastal (OR, make a Scrap Jack, by using any medium weight yearn on hand)

Poly-Fils Crafters Choice Dry Polyester Packing Fiber Fill

G/6/4.25mm crochet hook

Note…Save your time weaving in ends. Instead of weaving in ends, simply push the ends to the wrong side of the fabric, when seaming and stuffing ensure that the ends are with the stuffing.

Jack the Rabbit

Head (Make 2)

Round 1: With MC, Magic Loop, (tip, learn the Magic Loop or substitute another beginning here)ch 3, 13 dc in loop, pull loop closed, sl st to top of beg ch. -14 dc

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join. -28dc

Round 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to join. -42 dc

Round 4: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around, sl st to join. -56 dc

Round 5: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around, sl st to join. Fasten off. -70 dc

Back (Make 1)

Round 1: With MC, Magic Loop, ch 3, 13 dc in loop, pull loop closed, sl st to top of beg ch. -14 dc

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join. -28dc

Round 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to join. -42 dc

Round 4: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around, sl st to join. -56 dc

Round 5: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around, sl st to join. -70 dc

Round 6: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 4 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts] around, sl st to join. Fasten Off. -84 dc

Belly (Make 1)

Round 1: With CC1, Magic Loop, ch 3, 13 dc in loop, pull loop closed, sl st to top of beg ch. -14 dc

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join. -28dc

Round 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to join. -42 dc

Round 4: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around, sl st to join. -56 dc

Round 5: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around, sl st to join, change to MC. -70 dc

Round 6: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 4 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts] around, sl st to join. Fasten Off. -84 dc

Two heads, a Belly and a Back

Joining Head to Body

With Right sides facing each other, stack 1 Head on the Back, working through stitches of both fabrics, sl st in 10 stitches. Repeat with last Head and Belly.

Join a head to a body, with rights sides facing each other when joining.

With Wrong Sides facing each other, stack the 2 sides on top of each other, working through stitches of both fabrics, sc around the entire outer edge of sides, filling with poly-fil before completely finishing. (Tip: Begin joining near neck to ensure that the neck of both sides matchup)

Putting the wrong sides facing each other of head/body seam the body together and stuff it as you go.

Arms/Legs

Working in the joining round of Head and Body, find your personal placement for 2 legs and 2 arms. You will work a front side and back side of each, and these will be seamed together in the final steps.

Front Side

Row 1: With MC, working in front loop, sc in 4 sts, turn. -4 sc

Row 2 & 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc

Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc

Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -6 sc

Row 7-18: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off at the end of Row 18.

Back Side

Row 1: With MC, working in back loop, sc in 4 sts, turn. -4 sc

Row 2 & 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc

Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc

Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -6 sc

Row 7-18: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off at the end of Row 18.

Ears

Working in the joining round of Head find your personal placement for 2 ears. You will work a front side and back side of each, and these will be seamed together in the final steps.

Special Stitches

Single Crochet Two Together (sc3tog): Insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull through a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull through a loop, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Single Crochet Three Together (sc3tog): Insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull through a loop, [insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull through a loop] twice, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Front Side

Row 1: With CC1, working in front loop, sc in 3 sts, turn. -3 sc

Row 2 & 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -3 sc

Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc

Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc

Row 7-15: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc

Row 16: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, turn. – 2 sc2tog, 1 sc

Row 17: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -3 sc

Row 18: Ch 1, sc3tog, turn. -1 sc3tog

Row 19: Ch 1, sc in only st, fasten off.

Back Side

Row 1: With MC, working in back loop, sc in 3 sts, turn. -3 sc

Row 2 & 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -3 sc

Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc

Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc

Row 7-15: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc

Row 16: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, turn. – 2 sc2tog, 1 sc

Row 17: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -3 sc

Row 18: Ch 1, sc3tog, turn. -1 sc3tog

Row 19: Ch 1, sc in only st, fasten off.

Working two side of each arm/leg/ear, join to the seam of the body. One side in a front loop, one side in a back loop.

Seaming All Arms/Legs/Ears

With CC2, join to any edge seam of body or head, sc in each st across to next arm/leg/ear, working through both fabrics, evenly sc in ends of rows and stitches, filling with poly-fil before completing seaming, continue all the way around body, sl st to join. Fasten off.

Working all around the edge of the body, seam and stuff the arms/legs/ears

Upper Lip (Mustache)

With CC1 Ch 18, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sk next 3 chs, 9 dc in next ch, sk 3 chs, sl st in next ch, sk 3 chs, 9 dc in next ch, sk next 3 chs, sc in last ch. Fasten off. With Shells facing downward, whip stitch lip to face.

Tail

Round 1: With CC1, Magic loop, ch 3, 8 dc in loop, pull loop closed, sl st to join.

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to join. Fasten off. Whip stitch tail to back of body, filling with poly-fil before completing seaming.

Tail and Upper LIp

Nose

With CC2, ch 3, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, fasten off. Whip stitch at sl st of lip.

Eyes (Make 2)

With CC3, ch 3, 5 dc in 3rd ch from hook, fasten off. Whip stitch to face.

Jack the Rabbit

Short Rows in Crochet

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To help you celebrate National Crochet Month, I am sharing a technique to help advance your crochet skills, and including a free pattern. Today I am sharing how to work Short Rows, in both traditional and Tunisian Crochet.

First, I would like to thank Crochetville for including me in they blog tour for this month long celebration. Everyday you are introduced to a new designer, or hobbyist or teacher, to help inspire a new desire of crochet within you. Don’t miss a day, check out the participants here.

There are some terms that can be a bit intimidating the fiber arts, short rows can be one of them. However, they really are quite straight forward.

What Makes it Special

Learning how to work short rows in crochet will help expand crochet skills by adding subtle shaping in garments and the ability to create dramatic effects in just about any work you wish.

A short row is exactly as it sounds, you work your row short. Meaning you do not finish the row.

Sometimes this is worked by tapering the stitch height, by working shorter and shorter stitches until they are near a slip stitch. The work is turned, and possibly started by tapering the stich height upward, it is completed.

Working As A Dart

In the case of using short rows as is seen in sewing as if a dart, or a point in fabric, you work un-worked stitches. The next row works to the point where two rows below the row was worked short, then it continues to the remained of the stitches not worked three rows below.

Making A Wedge…

In the case of making a triangular shape, a multiple of short rows are worked, so that there are fewer stiches in each row. I often use this approach in creating shawls, essentially creating triangular wedges that I then build atop one another.

It is this last approach that I also use to create washcloths and potholders. I create “wedges” of triangles that work on one another to eventually create a circle.

Starting Your Circle

Using any yarn, with a comparable size hook, these patterns are great for scrap yarns. You can adjust the size by adjusting the number of beginning chains as the foundation. Just remember that this is only half the size of the finished product, and you will remove one stitch per row on the same edge of the fabric. It can be used utilizing either traditional crochet or Tunisian, and I share a quick pattern for both below.

Short Row Washcloth/Potholder

Short Row Crochet Washcloth/Potholder- Worked in Wedges

First Wedge

Row 1: Ch 16, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -15 sc

Row 2: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -14 sc

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 12 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -13sc

Row 4: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -12 sc

You Should Start Seeing the “Stair Stepping”

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 10 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -11sc

Row 6: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -10 sc

Don’t work the last stitch, and slip stitch in the first stitch of the next row…removing one stitch in each row on the same edge of the fabric.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 8 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -9sc

Row 8: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -8 sc

Over Halfway on the First Wedge….

Row 9: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 6 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -7sc

Row 10: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -6 sc

Row 11: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 4 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -5sc

Row 12: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc

Almost There…

Row 13: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -3sc

Row 14: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -2 sc

Row 15: Ch 1, sc in same st, turn. -1 sc

Row 16: Sl st in same st, turn.

Second Wedge

Row 17: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in the edge stitch of Rows 15-1 (essentially either the stitch skipped in a row, or the slip stitch after the row is turned), turn. -15 sc

Row 18-32: Rep Rows 2 through 16 of wedge 1.

Wedges 3-8

Repeat Second Wedge.

Seam Wedge 1 to Wedge 8.

Tunisian Short Row Washcloth/Potholder

Short Row Tunisian Crochet Washcloth/Potholder

These same principals apply to Tunisian crochet as well.

First Wedge

Row 1: Ch 15, pick up loops in each ch across. RP. -15 sts

Row 2: Tss in next 13 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -14 tss

Row 3: Tss in next 12 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -13 tss

Row 4: Tss in next 11 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -12 tss

Still not working the last stitch…

Row 5: Tss in next 10 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -11 tss

Row 6: Tss in next 9 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -10 tss

Don’t work the last stitch of each row of Tunisian crochet, then begin the regular Return Pass. Thus removing 1 stitch from each row on the same edge of the fabric.

Row 7: Tss in next 8 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -9 tss

Row 8: Tss in next 7 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -8 tss

Are you seeing the angle?

Row 9: Tss in next 6 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -7 tss

Row 10: Tss in next 5 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -6 tss

Row 11: Tss in next 4 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -5 tss

Row 12: Tss in next 3 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -4 tss

Almost finished the first wedge…

Row 13: Tss in next 2 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -3 tss

Row 14: Tss in next 1 st, leaving last st unworked. RP. -2 tss

Row 15: Tss in same st, leaving last st unworked. RP. -1 tss

Second Wedge

Row 16: Pick up loops in each unworked stitch of rows below. RP.-15tss

Row 17-30: Rep Rows 2-15 of wedge 1.

Wedges 3-8

Repeat Second Wedge.

Seam Wedge 1 to Wedge 8.