Chinese Lantern Bag- A free crochet pattern

Tis the season for quick holiday gifts, and I am honored to be part of the Marly Bird 24 Days of Quickies, sharing a free crochet bag pattern with you. Look for free patterns every day to help you meet your gift giving needs.

Today I am sharing a quick bag, the Chinese Lantern Bag works up in 1 skein, and since the yarn is super bulky it does not take much time to complete. Yet in the end you get a cute bag that any girl, or woman would enjoy. It is that “goldilocks” size, not too big and not too small, it is “just right”.

If your still need more quick gifts, don’t miss all the ideas from many designers, at Marly Birds, here.

Chinese Lantern Bag

Chinese Lantern Bag

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner Finished Size: 9” deep, 40” in circumference

Materials

  • Manos del Uruguay Franca super bulky weight, 100% superwash merino (114 yrds/105m/5.3 oz/150 g), 1 skein; colorway F9019 Duende
  • N/9.00mm crochet hook

Notes:

This bag is made by bringing the corners to the center and touching each other. The sides between the adjacent corners are then seamed part way.

Handles as attached at the corners.

Lets crochet the Square for the bag

Rnd 1: Ch 4, 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, ch 1, [3 dc in same ch as previous, ch 1] 3 times, sl st to top of beg ch.

Rnd 2: Ch 3, bldc in next st, fldc in next, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp (corner made), [fldc in next st, bldc in next st, fldc in next st, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp] 3 times, sl st to top of beg ch.

And Rnd 3: Ch 3, bldc in next st, fldc in next st, bldc in next st, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, {[bldc in next st, fldc in next st] across until 1 st before corner remains, bldc in next st, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp} 3 times, bldc in next st, sl st to join.

Still working on crocheting the square bag….

Rnd 4: Ch 3, [bldc in next st, fldc in next st] across to corner, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, {[fldc in next st, bldc in next st] across until 1 st before corner remains, fldc in next st, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp} 3 times, fldc in next st, bldc in next st, sl st to join.

Rnd 5: Ch 3, bldc in next st, [fldc in next st, bldc in next st] across to corner, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, {[bldc in next st, fldc in next st] across until 1 st before corner remains, bldc in next st, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp]} 3 times, bldc in next st, fldc in next st, bldc in next st, sl st to join.

Almost there…

Rnd 6: Ch 3, [bldc in next st, fldc in next st] across to corner, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, {[fldc in next st, bldc in next st] across until 1 st before corner remains, fldc in next st, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp} 3 times, [fldc in next st, bldc in next st] twice, sl st to join.

Rnd 7: Ch 3, bldc in next st, [fldc in next st, bldc in next st] across to corner, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, {[bldc in next st, fldc in next st] across until 1 st before corner remains, bldc in next st, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp]} 3 times, bldc in next st, [fldc in next st, bldc in next st] twice, sl st to join.

Almost done crocheting…

Rnd 8: Ch 3, [bldc in next st, fldc in next st] across to corner, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, {[fldc in next st, bldc in next st] across until 1 st before corner remains, fldc in next st, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp} 3 times, [fldc in next st, bldc in next st] 3 times, sl st to join.

Rnd 9: Ch 3, bldc in next st, [fldc in next st, bldc in next st] across to corner, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, {[bldc in next st, fldc in next st] across until 1 st before corner remains, bldc in next st, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp]} 3 times, bldc in next st, [fldc in next st, bldc in next st] 3 times, sl st to join.

Joining the sides…

Joining corners Rnd 10: Ch 1, fold corners together that hook is between, insert hook into same stitch as join and the stitch folded next to it, sc in this stitch, inserting hook through both sides of the fabric, sc in next 5 sts, only working through 1 fabric, sc in next 4 sts to corner, (sc, ch 3, sc) in corner, sc in next 4 sts, [fold corner just worked to next corner, working through both sides of the fabric sc in next 5 sts, only working through 1 fabric, sc in next 4 sts to corner, (sc, ch 3, sc) in corner, sc in next 4 sts] rep 3 times, sl st to join, fasten off.

Making the handles

Handles: Join to any corner, ch 5, sl st to the corner directly opposite, fasten off. Repeat for the other two corners. 

Abbreviations

Ch(s): chain(s)

Bldc: back loop double crochet

Dc: double crochet

Fldc: front loop double crochet

Sc: single crochet

Sl st: slip stitch

Sp: space

I hope you enjoy your free crochet bag pattern.

Candy Cane Lace

I have begun decorating candy canes with lace to help get into the mood for a great holiday season.

Honestly, I am not a fan of the candy cane. It is a candy that I usually pass on, but I have a couple of candy canes that have decorated my tree for decades. A friend created these decorated candy canes and I treasure them.

Candy Cane Lace Solid Shells and Lacy Loops

I want to share my own approach to these decorations to help adorn your tree or even a package or gift. Since it is a simple two row pattern that you can be altered and personalized many ways it is great way to spread cheer.

Materials

  • #10 Crochet Cotton Thread (or a lace weight yarn)
  • C/2/2.75mm crochet hook

The First Row- Creates the Woven Strip

Row 1: Ch 55, dc in 6th ch from hook, [ch 1, sk 1, dc in next st] across.

Make a chain as log as the candy cane working an odd number (basic candy cane works at 55 chains)
DC in the 6th chain from the hook
Chain 1, skip 1, dc in next chain, across. This is the ladder bade that the candy cane will weave through

Option 1- Solid Shells

Round 1 Option Solid Shells: Ch 1, working around the last dc st or Row 1, sc around post, ch 1, 5 dc around same post, ch 1, sc around same post, turn to work over beginning ch, [5 dc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp] across to end, ch 1, working around the end ch-5 loop, 5 dc in same space, ch 1, sc in same sp, turn to work over the top of Row 1, 5 dc in next ch-1 sp, [sc in next ch-1 sp, 5 dc in next ch-1 sp] across, sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

To start the shell lace, sc 5 dc sc in the end of the ladder
sc in the next ladder rung, 5 dc in the next ladder rung, sc in the next ladder rung, across to the other end and repeat all the way around the other side
Solid Shell Lace

Option 2 Lacy Loops

Round 1 Option Lacy Loops: [(sc, ch 5, sc)] 3 times around last dc, (sc, ch 5, sc) in each ch-1 sp across to other end, [(sc, ch 5, sc)] 3 times around beg ch-5 loop, (sc, ch 5, sc) in each ch-1 sp across, sl st to join. Fasten off.

To start Loops end work sc ch 5 sc, 3 times in end of the ladder
sc ch 5 sc in each rung around
Lacy Loops

Finishing Up

Weave in ends and weave candy cane through the spaces or Row 1.

Lisa’s Ladder Cowl- Free Pattern

A free pattern means that it is that time again, the New York Sheep and Wool Festival (a.k.a Rhinebeck)! Just like most everything else this year, it will be done a bit differently…as in virtually (find out information here).

This means that you do not have to live in or travel to Duchess County New York. You can be anywhere in the world and take classes, visit booths, and get a little hint of the New England turning leaves.

Lisa’s Ladder Cowl

For the last several years I have been teaming up with Lisa Souza Dyeworks and providing a free pattern to accompany her limited addition colorway for the week. This year is no different.  

Lisa’s Ladder Cowl

Materials

J/10/6.00mm crochet hook

Pyrenees Worsted 100% Merino wool; colorway Rhinebeck 2020; 1 Skein

Lisa’s Ladder close up

Pattern

Row 1: Ch 62, sc in 2nd ch from hook, [sk 3 chs, 2 dc in next ch, sc in next st] rep across 12 times, turn.

Row 2- until desired length: Ch 3, [2 dc in ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next dc] rep across 12 times, turn.

Block. Seam last row to row 1. Weave in ends.

1 For Me, 1 For You- Garden Block

Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America, by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free pattern. I will be creating a new block every two weeks and sharing it with you, I just ask that make one for donation.

Warm Up America is a nation wide organization that encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through the United States.

Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.

Garden Block

This block features color change, that does not require you to break the yarn. You can carry the yarn up the edge, as the color changes every row, and then finish the sides with edging.

I was inspired to create this block due to my lack of a green thumb. I try, and I think this season will be different. Yet it always ends the same…with a bunch of brown where I was expecting green.

This block lets me enjoy a little row of crocheted flowers.

Learn the best color changes.

Learn tips For Carrying Yarn on Edges.

Gauge: Square measures 7”x 9”

Garden Block

Materials

Medium weigh yarn, three colors (A), (B), (C)

K/10 1/2 /6.50mm crochet hook

Special Stitches

Flower Bobble (FB): [Yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo pull through 2 loops] 3 times, pull through all 4 loops on hook, ch 1, [Yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo pull through 2 loops] 3 times, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

First half of a Flower Bobble

Long Loop Double Crochet (LLdc): Work as a regular double crochet, however the placement if the first Yo and insert hook is worked two rows below working row, Yo, pull loop up to height o working row, and complete double crochet.

Yo, insert hook, pull up a long loop
Finish double crochet stitch

Block Pattern

Ch 25

Row 1: With (A), dc in fourth ch from hook, dc in each ch across, change to (B), turn. -23dc

Row 2: Ch 2, sk 1, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next st, [sk 2, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next st] rep 6 times, sk 1, hdc in last st, change to (C) turn. -7 (hdc, ch 1, hdc)

Row 3:  Ch 2, FB in each ch-1 sp across, hdc in last st, change to (A) turn. -7FB

Row 4:  Ch 3, [2 dc in ch-1 sp in center of FB, LLdc between hdc stitch 2 rows below] 7 times, dc in last st, change to (B) turn.

Row 5-13: Rep Rows 2-4, do not change color at the end of Row 13.

Row 14: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Fasten off.

Rnd 1: Join with B to any corner, orking around edges of block, sc evenly working 3 sc in each corner.  Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Add Fingers to Fingerless Gloves

I see a lot of fingerless glove patterns, however not a lot of actual gloves. I have had some people tell me that they think that gloves are just too hard, well to this I disagree.

Making a Fingerless Glove

Turning any fingerless glove into an actual full fledged glove, is actually not that difficult. Begin with the basic fingerless glove, and if you want to create your own custom fit, check out more information here.

Mark your fingers

Once you have your fingerless glove made, the next set is to put it one. Take 3 removable stitch markers (or safety pins), insert them between your fingers through both the front and back of the glove fabric.

Insert stitch markers of safety pins between the fingers.

Join yarn anywhere along the finger edge of the fabric. If you were working a pattern that was stitched wrist to fingers, you can simply keep working the yarn from the last round without finishing off.

Start crocheting the “separations”

Work stitches, I recommend single crochet, evenly along edge. Work a slip stitch to the adjacent stitch (the one on the fabric on the other side of the hand) whenever you come to a stitch marker. This will create the “separation” between the fingers. I even just work this technique when I am still just creating fingerless gloves. I feel like it helps them stay in place and not twist around my hand.

When working the single crochets, slip stitch across the fabric on the opposite side of the glove to create the finger “separations”.

Spiral your fingers

When you begin to work on the opposite side of the hand, and come to a slip stitch, work a single crochet in the one leg of the slip stitch that is closest to the last single crochet worked. Single crochet in a spiral by working on the fabric side previously worked, and work a tube the length of your finger.

Finish off your yarn, and join to fabric right next to the finger just made. Make the next finger working a stitch in the “one leg” of the slip stitch, of each side of the finger, and continue with the spiral method until the length meets your need. Repeat this of the remaining two fingers.

Work a single crochet in “one leg” of the slip stitch.

Make a thumb

Work the thumb in the same manner, joining to the edge of the thumbing opening and crocheting around it. However this opening may be much larger than the end of your thumb. Work two single crochet together (sc2tog) once in the first and second round. Then continue until the desired length is reached.

Work the spirals until each finger is the desired length.

Cinch them closed

Prepare to weave in the ends. Thread the tails at the ends of the fingers through the stitches in the last round of each finger and pull tight to cinch closed.

Glove

I do recommend that working fingers, it is best to use thinner weight yarn, nothing above a sport weigh (number 3). I usually work most of my gloves, and even fingerless gloves out of wool blended yarns that are either a fine or medium weigh (number 2 or 3). This is because anything heavier just becomes too bulky and feel clumsy on my hands. The nice thing about gloves is that you can complete a pair with only one hank of yarn, and feel really accomplished in your skills.