Category Archives: Patterns/Design Thoughts

Cable Braided Fingerless Gloves- Free Pattern

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I have been playing the Horizontals cables quite a bit over the last year. I have done this for a few reasons. One, I find it interesting to understand different aspects of crochet. Two, I feel like I need to know a lot of the ins and outs of a technique if I am going to teach it. So, to help teach and understand, Cable Braided Gloves were created.

This is a technique that I am teaching in a few places around the world this year, and if you can’t make it to a class I still want to share the concepts.

To understand this Braided approach to Horizontal Cables, I have a photo tutorial. Please check it out here.

This pattern is actually worked with some left over yarn, so if you want to create it in 1 color it will work up in less than 1 skein of the yarn listed. I just didn’t have enough to make the gloves match, so I figured a complimenting set would be fun.

Cable Braided Fingerless Gloves

Take cables a little side ways by working this woven method of horizontal cables. These fingerless gloves are simple rectangles, allowing you to focus on the highlight, horizontal cables woven through each other.

Size: 8 ½” tall, 8” circumference

Skill Advanced Beginner

Gauge  16 dc/16 rows of sc=4”

Materials

  • 5.00mm/H/8 crochet hook
  • Madeline Tosh Vintage medium weight 100% Superwash Merino yarn (203yrds/186m/4.02oz/114g) 1 skein each color: (A) Carbon Dating, (B) Translation

Special Stitches/ Notes

Foundation Half Double Crochet (fhdc): Yo, insert hook into the pinched chain (at base of last fhdc st or base of ehdc, yarn over, pull through a loop, chain 1 (pinch this one as it is the place the next subsequent stitch will be worked), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.

Extended Half Double Crochet (ehdc): Yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, chain 1, yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.

Joined Half Double Crochet (Jhdc): Yo, insert hook into the chain of the last Foundation stitch created, yarn over, pull up a loop, insert hook into the next stitch of the row, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

First Cable Braided Glove

Row 1: With A, Ch 36, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. – 35 dc

Rows 2-4: Ch 1, working in the back loop sc in each st across, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to color B, turn.

Make the first set of arches

Row 6: Ch 2, hdc in next st, [ehdc in next st, 9 fhdc, sk 5 sts, Jhdc in next st, hdc in next st] 4 times, hdc in last st, change to color A, turn. – 4 Arches

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to color B, turn. -51 sc

Weave the next arch

Row 8: Ch 2, ehdc in next st, 4 fhdc, [working behind arch, sk 1 st of Row 5, Jhdc in next st, hdc in next st, ehdc in next st, pull loop to front of work under arch, 9 fhdc] 3 times, working behind arch, sk 1 st of Row 5, Jhdc, in next st, hdc in next st, ehdc in next st, pull loop to front of work under arch, 4 fhdc, working over last 2 sts of Row 7, Jhdc in 2nd to last st, hdc in last st, change to color A, turn. – 3 full arches, 2 partial aches.

Row 9: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -51 sc

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in 2 next st, ch 1, [sc in each of the 3 topmost sts of next arch, ch 1,] 7 times, sc in the last 3 sts of row, turn. -35 sc

Rows 11-39: Ch 1, working in back loop, sc in each st across. -35 sc

Fasten off. Seam Row 1 to Row 39 2”, then skip 2” (this leaves the opening for the thumb), seam remain stitches of side.

Second Cable Braided Glove

Row 1: With B, Ch 36, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. – 35 dc

Rows 2-4: Ch 1, working in the back loop sc in each st across, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to color A, turn.

Making the first set of arches again

Row 6: Ch 2, hdc in next st, [ehdc in next st, 9 fhdc, sk 5 sts, Jhdc in next st, hdc in next st] 4 times, hdc in last st, change to color B, turn. – 4 Arches

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change to color A, turn. -51 sc

Weave through the arches

Row 8: Ch 2, ehdc in next st, 4 fhdc, [working in front of arch, sk 1 st of Row 5, Jhdc in next st, hdc in next st, ehdc in next st, push loop to back of work under arch, 9 fhdc] 3 times, working in front of arch arch, sk 1 st of Row 5, Jhdc, in next st, hdc in next st, ehdc in next st, pushing loop to back of work under arch, 4 fhdc, working over last 2 sts of Row 7, Jhdc in 2nd to last st, hdc in last st, change to color B, turn. – 3 full arches, 2 partial aches.

Row 9: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. -51 sc

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in 2 next st, ch 1, [sc in each of the 3 topmost sts of next arch, ch 1,] 7 times, sc in the last 3 sts of row, turn. -35 sc

Rows 11-39: Ch 1, working in back loop, sc in each st across. -35 sc

Fasten off. Seam Row 1 to Row 39 2”, then skip 2” (this leaves the opening for the thumb), seam remain stitches of side.

Radiate Champion- Moogly CAL 2026

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I am honored to be part of the Moogly CAL 2026, and thank you for joining along. The Radiate Champion block is in recognition of all the people that have helped champion me in the last year.

I have been fortunate enough to find many friends in the classes I teach. Friends from various walks of life that encourage and support one another, myself included.

 I hope that you reach out and find a “tribe” in your community. The tribe can take many forms and include people that upon first glance may not appear to fit into your life, but if you give them an opportunity you might just discover that they are your biggest cheerleader.

If you want to join my tribe, consider joining my newsletter to keep up on my happenings, or join me in person at one of my various classes around the country and world.

Also, don’t miss any of the Moogly CAL 2026 blocks, they can all be found here.

Radiate Champion Block

  • Madeline Tosh Vintage medium weight 100% superwash merino yarn colors: (A) Carbon Dating, (B) Thyme, (C) Schnitzelfaced, (D) Translation
  • J/10/6.mm crochet hook

Abbreviations

Ssc= Standing single crochet

Cluster (CL)- YO twice, insert hook as if a Front post around first indicated st, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), YO twice, insert hook as if Front post around next indicated st, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops (5 loops on hook), YO twice, insert hook as if Front Post around last indicated st, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops (7 loops on hook), YO, pull through 6 loops, YO, pull through last 2 loops.

Notes

Not every row is turned, however, there is a turn at the end or each rnd 2 and 3 rep.

All CL and FPtr sts are worked in color A, into rows that are color A.

The CL stitch can cause the fabric to not lay flat, blocking helps. If it seems like there is a lot of puckering, pull the YO loops up higher for the CL sts.

Let’s Get Started!

Rnd 1 (WS): With A, Ch 4, 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, [ch 2, 3 dc in same ch] rep 3 times, ch 2, join. Fasten off. – 12 dc (3 dc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 2: With B, ssc in any ch-2 sp, dc in same sp,{ [sc in next st, dc in next st] across until 1 st rem, sc in last st, (dc, sc, ch 2, sc, dc) in ch-2 sp} rep 3 times, [sc in next st, dc in next st] across until 1 st rem, sc in last st, (dc, sc, ch 2) in ch-2 sp, join, turn . – 7 sts per side, 4 ch-2 sps

Don’t miss the turn…

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in ch-2 sp, {[dc in next sc, sc in next dc] across until 1 st rem, dc in last st, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp} rep 3 times, [dc in next sc, sc in next dc] until 1 st rem, dc in last st, sc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, fasten off, turn. –9 sts per side, 4 ch-2 sps

Now turn back….

Rnd 4: With A, ssc in any ch-2 sp, [sc in next 4 sts, CL around 3 dc of Row 1, skip st directly behind CL, sc in last 4 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp] rep 3 times, sc in next 4 sts, CL around 3 dc of Row 1, skip st directly behind CL, sc in last 4 sts, sc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join. Fasten off. –11 sts per side (1 CL per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnds 5-6: With C, Rep Rnds 2 & 3. –17 sts per side, 4 ch-2 sps

Time for some Front Posts to create some inverted triangles

Rnd 7: With A, ssc in any ch-2 sp, [sc in next 5 sts, skip the first sc of Row 4, CL over next 3 sc sts of Row 4, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next st, 3FPtr around CL of Row 4, skip 3 sts directly behind post sts, sc in next st, skip next sc of Row 4 CL over next 3 sc of Row 4, skip st directly behind CL, sc in last 5 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp] rep 3 times, sc in next 4 sts, skip the first sc of Row 4 CL over next 3 sc sts of Row 4, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next st, 3FPtr around CL of Row 4, skip 3 sts directly behind post sts, sc in next st, skip next sc of Row 4 CL over next 3 sc of Row 4, skip st directly behind CL, sc in last 5 sts, sc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, fasten off. –19 sts per side (2 CL, 3 FPtr per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnds 8-9: With D, Rep Rnds 2 & 3. -25 sts per side, 4 ch-2 sps

Back to some Radiate Champion Clusters

Rnd 10: With A, ssc in any ch-2 sp, [sc in next 5 sts, skip the first two sc of Row 7, CL over next 3 sc of Row 7, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next st, 3 FPtr around CL of Row 7, skip 3 sts behind post st, sc in next 5 sts, 3 FPtr around next CL st of Row 7, skip 3 sts behind post sts, sc in next st, skip the next sc of Row 7, CL over the next 3 sc of Row 7, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next 5 sts, (sc, ch-2, sc) in ch-2 sp] rep 3 times, sc in next 5 sts, skip the first two sc of Row 7, CL over next 3 sc of Row 7, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next st, 3 FPtr around CL of Row 7, skip 3 sts behind post st, sc in next 5 sts, 3 FPtr around next CL st of Row 7, skip 3 sts behind post sts, sc in next st, skip the next sc of Row 7, CL over the next 3 sc of Row 7, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next 5 sts, sc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, fasten off. –27sts per side (2 CL, 6 FPtr per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnds 11-12: With C, rep Rnds 2 & 3. – 33 sts per side, 4 ch-2 sps

Do you see the back and forth yet?

Rnd 13: With A, ssc in any ch-2 sp, [sc in next 6 sts, skip the first 2 sc of Rnd 10, CL over next 3 sc of Rnd 10, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next st, 3 FPtr around CL of Rnd 10, skip 3 sts behind post st, sc in next 11 sts, 3 FPtr around CL of Rnd 10, skip 3 sts directly behind post sts, sc in next st, sk 1 sc of Row 10, CL over next 3 sc sts of Rnd 10, skip st directly behind CL, sc in last 6 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp] rep 3 times, sc in next 6 sts, skip the first 2 sc of Rnd 10, CL over next 3 sc of Rnd 10, skip st direcly behind CL, sc in next st, 3 FPtr around CL of Rnd 10, skip 3 sts behind post st, sc in next 11 sts, 3 FPtr around CL of Rnd 10, skip 3 sts direcly behind post sts, sc in next st, sk 1 sc of Rnd 10, CL over next 3 sc sts of Rnd 10, skip st directly behind CL, sc in last 6 sts, sc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, fasten off. – 35 sts per side (2 CL, 6 FPtr per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnds 14-15: With B rep Rows 2 & 3. –41 sts per side, 4 ch-2 sps

Let’s finish up!

Rnd 16: With A, ssc in any ch-2 sp, [sc in next 6 sts, skip the first 3 sc of Rnd 13, CL over next 3 sc of Rnd 13, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next st, 3 FPtr around CL of Rnd 13, skip 3 sts directly behind post sts, sc in next 19 sts, 3 Fptr around CL of Rnd 13, skip 3 sts behind post st, sc in next st, skip next sc of Rnd 13, CL over next 3 sc of Rnd 13, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next 6 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp] rep 3 times, sc in next 6 sts, skip the first 3 sc of Rnd 13, CL over next 3 sc of Rnd 13, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next st, 3 FPtr around CL of Rnd 13, skip 3 sts directly behind post sts, sc in next 19 sts, 3 Fptr around CL of Rnd 13, skip 3 sts behind post st, sc in next st, skip next sc of Rnd 13, CL over next 3 sc of Rnd 13, skip st directly behind CL, sc in next 6 sts, sc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, fasten off. – 43 sts per side (2 CL, 6 FPtr per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Weave in ends, block.

Quick Holiday Gift- Classic Kitchen Towel

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Quick holiday gifts are a must, so why not give a couple of home decor items a try. The Classic Kitchen Towel is a go-to.

All you need is a kitchen hand towel, yarn, and a hook. Within the afternoon you can make up a stack and be all set for beginning your wrapping.

Classic Kitchen Towel

I prefer to not use an actual written pattern for this project, I think it can get in the way a bit. Instead, I take the approach of “this is the basics, lets jump in”

Lets Cut

To begin, I fold the towel in half, short edge to short edge. Then I cut it in half at the fold. I do this because I fond it easier to crochet through I piece of fabric. Having an intact towel usually means to insert your hook through the fold, and thus 2 pieces of fabric. In addition, I get two gifts out of each towel. Double bonus!

Now we stab

Then find a crochet hook that will “stab” through the fabric, about ½” (1.25 cm) from the cut edge. The weave of the towel will typically give way to the hook. In the rare occasion that it doesn’t, try a smaller hook, for you can use a hammer and nail to “punch” holes into the fabric.

“Stab” through the fabric

Some people like to ensure that these “stabbed” or “punched” points are evenly spaced across the top edge. I have found that I don’t usually notice it being uneven from being eye-balled, especially since the towel usually folds back on itself.

Single crochet stitches are worked in these “stabbed” or ‘punched” points, a chain can be worked between the single crochets, but that is a personal choice. After getting all the way across, chain 3 and turn.

Single crochet across

(Don’t worry about the cut edge, it will typically roll under when you begin stitching, if it doesn’t you can help it to curl under the stitches).

The cut edge will “curl” under

The second row is just double crochet all the way across.

Now some regular crochet

Row 3 just chain 2, double crochet in the next stitch and work a double crochet 2 together all the way across. If the stitch count doesn’t work out evenly, don’t worry just work 1 double crochet at the end. Then turn.

Repeat Row 3 until there are only between 5-9 stitches remaining. This will become the “neck” or “hanging part” of the towel.

Making the “neck” is simply working the stitches even (by working: chain 3, double crochet in each stitch across, turn). By the second row of the “neck” you want to make a “buttonhole”. This is done by making a chain space (chain 1, skip 1 stitch) in the center of the row. The next row a double crochet is worked into the chain. Continue working even until the neck is between 9-14” long.

Work decrease every row until there are only a few stitches, then work even, inserting a “buttonhole”

No button is actually needed. Instead, when the length of the “neck” is finished, work an additional row with 3 double crochet stitches in each stitch across. This makes a flared and sometime ruffled end that can be inserted through the “buttonhole” to secure it to any rod.

Create a fan at the end to act as a button

Lastly, weave in the ends, and this gift is done.

As far as yarn to use, I usually use some scraps that are usually a medium weight (#4) and usually acrylic. This just happens to be what I have on hand the most, but really anything can be used.

Another relatively quick gift is a simple pot holder; this is one that I turn to.

Walking Pathways- A Free Blanket Pattern

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I found a stitch pattern that I really got into a rhythm working. I could keep working it for hours, with the Walking Pathways Throw. The cluster row might be a bit involved. But following it up with a simple row keeps it fun.

What brings this throw to life however is the edging, featuring a horizontal cable in a contrasting color.

So way it was made

I created the original of this design for a long time friend. We reconnected with just as they were moving across the country. The throws that followed were made for others that hold a special place in my heart.

Walking Pathways Throw

It has taken me a while to actually get this design written and out in the world. This is mostly because the horizontal cable is not completely straight forward to write. I have managed to complete a visual post about it (see it here). You will also find a link to a video to help explain to further.

Some of my students have taken up the stitch pattern of the body, loving the subtle texture. They have played with varying stripes of color. It really does lend itself to many possibilities.

Main fabric of Walking Pathways Throw

The name comes from my personal walk of figuring out midlife. All the differing paths this journey of life has been taking me on.

The Pattern

Walking Pathways Throw by Linda Dean

A relatively simple 2 row repeat gets an eye catching and rhythmic edging of a horizontal cable. Quicker to work than you might think, this throw will be a delight.

Size 46”x  60” (including a 2” boarder all the way around)

Skill intermediate

Gauge 10 CL sts/ 9 rows 4”

Materials

  • K/10 ½ /6.5 mm crochet hook
  • Berroco Vintage  medium weight, 52% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 8%Nylon yarn (3.5oz/100g/218yd/200m) per ball; 12 skeins MC #5189 Charcoal and 2 skeins (divided in half) of CC #5194 Breezeway

Special Stitches

Foundation Double Crochet Cluster (FCL): Yo, insert hook in chain/base of previous stitch, yo, pull up a loop, ch 1 (creates base of current stitch), yo, pull through 2 loops, [yo, insert hook into chain/base of current stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loop] twice, yo, pull through 4 loops.

Double Crochet Cluster (CL): [Yo, insert hook into st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] rep 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Standing Half Double Crochet (Shdc): Yo, hold yo on hook, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Reverse Single Crochet (Rsc): Working in the opposite direction as normal, insert hook into next stitch and complete a single crochet.

Let’s Start The Main Body

Row 1:

Version1: With MC, chain 205, CL in 5th ch from hook, [sk 1 ch, CL in next ch] rep across until 2 chs rem, sk 1 ch, dc in last st, turn. -100 CL, 2 dc

Version 2: With MC, ch 4, FCL in 4th ch from hook, FCL 99 times, Fdc. -100CL, 2 dc

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, CL next st, CL in each st across until 1 st rem, dc in last st, turn.

Rows 4-119: Rep Rows 2 & 3, 58 times. Do not fasten off.

Let’s Start the Edging

Rnd 1: Working down edge, sc in the ends of the rows evenly across to corner, 3 sc in corner, sc in unused loops of foundation chain to corner, 3 sc in corner, sc in ends of rows evenly across to corner, 3 sc in corner, sc across last row 3 sc in last st, sl st to join, fasten off.

Work Horizontal Braid using 4 different balls of CC- each ball will need to be at least 26 grams in weight. For a step by step of how to work the braid, please check out this post, which will have a link to a video if needed. To ensure that the corners do not cup, make note of the corners in this post as well.

Braided Edging featuring a horizontal cable

Let’s start the Braid…or Cable

Rnd A: With CC, join to any st on edge with a Shdc, hdc in next 6 sts, remove hook from loop and bring yarn to front of fabric. Work Rnd B

Rnd B: With CC, join to back bar first hdc of Rnd A  with a Shdc, hdc in back bar of each hdc across, remove hook from loop and bring yarn to front of fabric. Work Rnd C

Rnd C: With CC, join to back bar of first hdc of Rnd B with a Shdc, hdc in back bar of each hdc across, hdc in next 7 sts of edging Rnd 1, remove hook from loop and bring yarn to front of fabric. Work Rnd D

Rnd D: With CC, join to back bar of first hdc of Rnd C with a Shdc, hdc in back bar of each hdc across, remove hook from loop and bring yarn to front of fabric. Work Rnd A1

This is where you can start repeating

Rnd A1: Pick up working loop of Rnd A, working in back bar of hdc of Rnd D hdc in each st across, hdc in next 7 sts of edging Rnd 1, remove hook from loop and bring yarn to front of fabric. Work Rnd B1

Rnd B1: Pick up working loop of Rnd B, working in back bar, hdc in each st across, remove hook from loop and bring yarn to front of fabric. Work Rnd C1

Rnd C1: Pick up working loop of Rnd C, working in back bar of hdc of Rnd B hdc in each st across, hdc in next 7 sts of edging Rnd 1, remove hook from loop and bring yarn to front of fabric. Work Rnd D1

Rnd D1: Pick up loop of Rnd D, working in back bar of hdc, hdc in each st across, remove hook from loop and bring yarn to from of fabric. Work Rnd A1

Repeat Rnds A1-D1 round, join to the corresponding Round, Fasten off all 4 rounds.

Time to finish this up

Rnd 2: With MC join to back bar of any stitch with a Shdc, working in back bar hdc in each st around, join, fasten off.

Rnd 3: With CC join to any st, ch 1, Rsc around edge, fasten off.

Weave in all ends. Block if desired.

Moogly CAL- The Christine Quilt Block

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I am so thrilled to join you for another Moogly CAL! This year I am sharing The Christine Quilt Block, a block using simple stitches to create fabulous color blocking.

This square grew out of my playing with the traditional quilt block, the half square triangle. The half square triangle is traditionally only 2 colors, yet is put together in quilts to create many classic designs. I have played with a couple of ways to create this half square triangle in crochet. You can see some ideas of how this 2 tone block can be worked into various design here.

However, for the CAL I took this technique in a little different direction, using more than 2 colors. I found that I couldn’t decide which color placement I preferred. So I have 2 options for you to check out. One has the same colors per side, and the other rotates them.

This block is worked with 2 colors per round, and turning after joining the round. Don’t fasten off and join, you would create a half square triangle in 2 colors.

I will admit that this square was inspired by one of my students, Christine. Just like the block, she is generous with many sides to herself that add color to a world of gray. It also happens that she has quilting in her skill set. Thus I can tease about having to have things perfectly worked, and square.

Love to have you join me

If you feel inclined to see more of my work throughout the year sign up for my monthly newsletter. It is where I share my crochet journey. Or, join me in person at my various teaching locations. …Or both, is an option too.

Can’t wait to see what you come up with in this design! And don’t miss any other Moogly CAL blocks, follow them for 2025 here.

The Christine Quilt Block

A bit more symmetrical with the color placement

Red Heart With Love medium weight 100% acrylic yarn colors:

  • (A) #1538 Lilac,
  • (B) #1001 White,
  • (C) #1623 Mallard,
  • (D) #1207 Cornsilk

J/10/6.00mm crochet hook

Sdc= Standing double crochet. (If you don’t feel comfortable with this technique, substitute with Slip stitch in indicated stitch, chain 3)

A little more abstract in the color placement

Rnd 1: With A, Ch 4, 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, ch 2, 3 dc in same ch, ch 1, change to B, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same ch, ch 2, sl st to join, turn. – 12 dc (3 dc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 2: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in each dc across to ch-2 sp (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across to ch-2 sp, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 1, change to A, ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across to next ch-2 sp, (2dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, turn. Fasten off both colors. –28 dc (7 dc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Lets change colors

Rnd 3: With C, Sdc in to any solid color ch-2 sp corner, dc in same sp, dc in each dc across, (2dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each st across, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, change to D, ch 1, 2 dc in same sp, dc in each st across, (2 dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, turn. –44 dc (11 dc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 4: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in each dc across to ch-2 sp (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across to ch-2 sp, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 1, change to C, ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across to next ch-2 sp, (2dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, turn. Fasten off both colors. –60 dc (15 dc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Back to the original colors….if you desire

Rnd 5: With A, Sdc in any solid color ch-2 sp corner (note you can start the color above the same placement of A, or on the opposite side from A in the first round for a different effect), dc in same ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across, (2dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each st across, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, change to B, ch 1, 2 dc in same sp, dc in each st across, (2 dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, turn. –76 dc (19 dc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 6: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in each dc across to ch-2 sp (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across to ch-2 sp, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 1, change to A, ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across to next ch-2 sp, (2dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, turn. Fasten off both colors. –92 dc (23 dc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Another color change

Rnd 7: With C, Sdc in any solid color ch-2 sp corner (note you can start the color above the same placement of C, or on the opposite side from C in the third round for a different effect), dc in same ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across, (2dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each st across, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, change to D, ch 1, 2 dc in same sp, dc in each st across, (2 dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, turn. –108 dc (27 dc per side), 4 ch-2 sps

Rnd 8: Sl st in ch-2 sp, ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in each dc across to ch-2 sp (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across to ch-2 sp, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 1, change to C, ch 1, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across to next ch-2 sp, (2dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in each dc across, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, join, turn. Fasten off both colors. –124 dc (31 dc per side), 4 ch-2 sps