Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America,
by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free
pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with
you, I just ask that make one for donation.
Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that
encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their
office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through
the United States.
Linked Crochet Block
Even if you do not want
to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local
community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.
Linked Crochet Stitches
Linked stitches create a
row without open spaces between the stitches, the stitches stand together and
are interlinked with one another. It creates a distinctive line across the
right side of the row and a uniquely textured wrong side of the row. This is a
create way to create a solid fabric even with tall stitches.
If you have experience
with Tunisian crochet you may see some similarities. As with Tunisian Simple
Stitch, you insert the hook and pull up a loop, and then work them back off to
one loop.
Gauge: 7”x 9”
rectangle
Materials
Medium weight yarn in 4 fours (A), (B), (C), and (D)
K/10 1/2 /6.5 mm crochet hook
Block
Row 1: With A, ch 30, sc in 2nd ch
from hook, sc in each ch across, change to B, turn. -29sc
Linked Half Double Crochet
Linked Half Double Crochet (lhdc): Insert hook in yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo, pull up a loop,
insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 3 loops
on hook.
(Linked Half Double crochet) Insert hook into yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo, pull up a loop(Linked Half Double Crochet) Insert hook into the next stitch, yo, pull up a loopYo, pull through 3 loops. Linked Half Double Crochet completed
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch here
and throughout), hdc in same st, lhdc in each st across, turn. -28 lhdc, 1hdc
Rows 3 & 4: Rep Row 2, changing to
color A at the end of row 4.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st
across, change to C, turn. -29 sc
Linked Double Crochet
Linking to the Turning Chain
Beginning Linked Double Crochet (Bldc): Insert hook in 2nd chain from hook (of the turning chain),
yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull
through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through last 2 loops.
Beginning Chain 3(Beginning Linked Double Crochet) Insert hook into the 2nd chain of the beginning turning chain, yo, pull up a loop. (Beginning Linked Double Crochet) Insert hook in next stitch, yo, pull up a loop.
The Traditional Linked Double Crochet
Linked Double Crochet (ldc): Insert hook in yarn
over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch,
yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through the last 2 loops.
(Linked Double Crochet) Insert hook into yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch(Linked Double Crochet)Insert hook in yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo, pull up a loop(Linked Double Crochet) Insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop(Linked Double Crochet) Yo, pull through 2 loops on the hook(Linked Double Crochet) Yarn over pull through last 2 loops on hook, Stitch complete.
Row 6: Ch 3, Bldc, ldc in each st across,
turn. -28 ldc, 1Bldc
Rows 7 & 8: Rep Row 6, changing
to color A at the end of Row 8.
Row 9: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st
across, change to C, turn. -29 sc
Linked Treble Crochet
Linking to the Turning Chain
Beginning Linked Treble Crochet (Bltr): Insert hook in 2nd chain from hook (of the turning chain),
yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into 4th chain from hook, yo, pull
up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2
loops on hook, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through last 2 loops.
(Beginning Linked Treble Crochet) Insert hook in 2nd chain from hook, yo, pull up a loop(Beginning Linked Treble Crochet) Insert hook in 4th chain from hook, yo, pull up a loop.(Beginning Linked Treble Crochet) Insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop(Beginning Linked Treble Crochet) Yarn over pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 2 loops.
The Traditional Linked Treble Stitch
Linked Treble Crochet (ltr): Insert hook in top yarn
over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in bottom yarn over
wrap of the adjacent stitch, yo pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch,
yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 2 loops, pull
through the last 2 loops.
(Linked Treble Crochet) Insert hook in top yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in bottom yarn over wrap of adjacent stitch, yo pull up a loop(Linked Treble Crochet) Insert hook in the next stitch, yo, pull up a loop(Linked Treble Crochet) Yarn over pull through 2 loops(Linked Treble Crochet) Yarn over, pull through 2 more loops on hook(Linked Treble Crochet) Yarn over, pull through last 2 loop. Stitch completed.
Row 10: Ch 4, Bltr, ltr in each st across,
turn. -28 ltr, 1Bltr
Rows 11 & 12: Rep Row 6, changing
to color A at the end of Row 8.
Row 13: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st
across, fasten off. -29 sc
Help me help local communities by creating blocks for Warm Up America,
by making a block for yourself and one for a community project with this free
pattern. I will be creating a new block every few weeks and sharing it with
you, I just ask that make one for donation.
Warm Up America is a nationwide organization that
encourages local donations, but will also except donations to be sent to their
office so that blocks can be assembled and then blankets can be donated through
the United States.
Even if you do not want to participate with Warm Up America, please consider creating blocks, or blankets for your local community. There are various places in every community that accept donations.
Bricks Block
Bricks Block
Gauge: 7”x 9” rectangle
Materials
Medium weight yarn
K/10 1/2 /6.5 mm crochet hook
Notes
When changing bricks you do not turn the fabric like a page of a book, instead you turn it to the side and work on another side of the square.
First Brick
Row 1: Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from
hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -5sc
Rows 2-4: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, change
to new color, do not turn.
Second Brick
Row 6: Ch 1, Working down the ends of the
rows sc in the end of each row, turn. -5sc
Rows 7-9: Rep Rows 2-4.
Row 10: Rep Row 5.
Third Brick
Row 11: Ch 1, working down the ends of the
rows sc in the end of each row, sc in each st on edge of block 1, turn. -10 sc
Rows 12-14: Rep Rows 2-4.
Row 15: Rep Row 5.
Fourth Brick
Row 16: Ch 1, working down the ends of the
rows sc in the end of each row, sc in each st of next block, turn. -10 sc.
Rows 17-19: Rep Rows 2-4.
Row 20: Rep Row 5.
Fifth Brick
Row 21: Ch 1, working down the ends of the
rows sc in the end of each row, sc in each st and row ends of next blocks,
turn. -15 sc.
Rows 22-24: Rep Rows 2-4.
Row 25: Rep Row 5.
Sixth Brick
Row 26: Ch 1, working down the ends of the
rows sc in the end of each row, sc in each st and row ends of next blocks,
turn. -15 sc.
Rows 27-29: Rep Rows 2-4.
Row 30: Rep Row 5.
Seventh Brick
Row 31: Ch 1, working down the ends of the
rows sc in the end of each row, sc in each st and row ends of next blocks,
turn. -20 sc.
Rows 32-34: Rep Rows 2-4.
Row 35: Rep Row 5.
Eighth Brick
Row 36: Ch 1, working down the ends of the
rows sc in the end of each row, sc in each st and row ends of next blocks,
turn. -20 sc.
Rows 37-39: Rep Rows 2-4.
Row 40: Rep Row 5.
Ninth Block
Ninth Brick
Row 41: Ch 1, working down the ends of the
rows sc in the end of each row, sc in each st and row ends of next blocks,
turn. -25 sc.
Rows 42-44: Rep Rows 2-4.
Row 45: Rep Row 5.
Tenth Brick
Row 46: Ch 1, working down the ends of the rows sc in the end of each row, sc in each st and row ends of next blocks, turn. -25 sc. Fasten off, weave in ends, block.
There are times when crochet shares a perspective that I was
not aware existed. I was invited to join an on-line conference call of crochet enthusiasts
recently, and as I was sitting back and listening to the discussions, I was
struck by a topic I had never considered. The heritage of a pattern, and how it
connects us to others.
This particular topic was around a pattern for a pot holder.
Some Stories of Connection
I listened to a story of how a learned family pattern has
continued through generations. How even after the legacy of the pattern has
passed the skill is picked up by another and still being created and shared
throughout the family. Connecting multiple
generations and family tree branches, as so many had memories of this one pot
holder pattern that was created by the family matriarch.
I heard another regarding a very similar pot holder pattern
and how it was the captivating project that encouraged them to further their
own crochet skills so as to create the pattern themselves.
Still more was the eagerness of others to learn this pattern
to make the same connections with family and each other.
My Take Aways
I was in awe of how one simple pattern was connecting all of
these people, and how they shared that it was a connection throughout those
that they love.
Everyone may not crochet, but the legacy of a simple crochet
pattern has connected these families. That to me is mesmerizing, as I have no
connection to those in my family that crocheted before me. I may have some
hooks that belonged to my great-grandmother, but I never met her, I have never
seen any of her handiwork. There are no family patterns in my family that holds
these vivid memories for me, but it a wonderful to know that these exist of
others, and I feel honored to have heard their stories.
If you want to create attempt this legacy potholder, below is a similar pattern to those that were engaging the memories of others. I have used this pattern for several years to help new crocheters practice their skills.
Free Pattern
Diagonal Corners Pot Holder
Diagonal Corners Pot Holder
Materials List
Size J/10/6.0mm hook
Approximately 90yd of medium weight yarn, sample used: Lily Sugar’n Cream medium weight 100% USA Grown Cotton yarn (2oz/56.7g/95yrd/86m), 1 skein color# 102002 Mod Ombre
Removable Stitch Marker
Tapestry Needle
Details
Finished measurements: 7”x 6.5”
Gauge: is not critical for this project
Getting Started
Rnd1: Ch 30, 3sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 27 ch, 3 sc in last ch, working in back loops of beg ch, sc in next 27 ch.
Rnd 2: Without joining, work sc in next 2 sts, insert stitch marker in last st created, sc in each st around to marker.
Rnds 3-18: Sc in each st around.
Finishing
Leaving a long tail, cut yarn and pull through loop on hook. (Finished off.) Fold the edges of round 18 together to allow pot holder to lay flat. Thread tapestry needle through long tail and weave through both sides of Round 18, sewing seam together. Weave ends in.
I have always had a soft spot for Rabbits, and as such I have always loved this time of year as it brings out Easter Bunnies everywhere. I have created a simple free pattern for a toy bunny, that might be just perfect for a little one in your life. This is an amigurumi for the beginner, as it has minimal shaping, I like the rustic charm.
Jack the Scrap Rabbit and Jack the Rabbit
This free pattern is part of the 2020 Softie CAL! There are many great designs to keep you inspired, check all of them out here. Also, don’t miss the giveaways.
Materials
Lion Brand Basic Stitch Premium 100% acrylic medium weight yarn (3.5 oz/100g/219yd/200m) colors: MC-#126 Goldmine, CC1-#98 Cream, CC2-#142 Boysenberry, CC3- #109 Coastal (OR, make a Scrap Jack, by using any medium weight yearn on hand)
Poly-Fils Crafters Choice Dry Polyester Packing Fiber Fill
G/6/4.25mm crochet hook
Note…Save your time weaving in ends. Instead of weaving in ends, simply push the ends to the wrong side of the fabric, when seaming and stuffing ensure that the ends are with the stuffing.
Round 2: Ch 3, dc
in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join. -28dc
Round 3: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to
join. -42 dc
Round 4: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around, sl st
to join. -56 dc
Round 5: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around, sl st
to join. Fasten off. -70 dc
Back (Make 1)
Round 1: With MC,
Magic Loop, ch 3, 13 dc in loop, pull loop closed, sl st to top of beg ch. -14
dc
Round 2: Ch 3, dc
in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join. -28dc
Round 3: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to
join. -42 dc
Round 4: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around, sl st
to join. -56 dc
Round 5: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around, sl st
to join. -70 dc
Round 6: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 4 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts] around, sl st
to join. Fasten Off. -84 dc
Belly (Make 1)
Round 1: With CC1,
Magic Loop, ch 3, 13 dc in loop, pull loop closed, sl st to top of beg ch. -14
dc
Round 2: Ch 3, dc
in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join. -28dc
Round 3: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to
join. -42 dc
Round 4: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around, sl st
to join. -56 dc
Round 5: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around, sl st
to join, change to MC. -70 dc
Round 6: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 4 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts] around, sl st
to join. Fasten Off. -84 dc
Two heads, a Belly and a Back
Joining Head to Body
With Right sides facing each other, stack 1 Head on the
Back, working through stitches of both fabrics, sl st in 10 stitches. Repeat
with last Head and Belly.
Join a head to a body, with rights sides facing each other when joining.
With Wrong Sides facing each other, stack the 2 sides on top
of each other, working through stitches of both fabrics, sc around the entire
outer edge of sides, filling with poly-fil before completely finishing. (Tip:
Begin joining near neck to ensure that the neck of both sides matchup)
Putting the wrong sides facing each other of head/body seam the body together and stuff it as you go.
Arms/Legs
Working in the joining round of Head and Body, find your
personal placement for 2 legs and 2 arms. You will work a front side and back
side of each, and these will be seamed together in the final steps.
Front Side
Row 1: With MC, working
in front loop, sc in 4 sts, turn. -4 sc
Row 2 & 3: Ch
1, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 5: Ch 1, sc
in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -6 sc
Row 7-18: Ch 1,
sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off at the end of Row 18.
Back Side
Row 1: With MC, working
in back loop, sc in 4 sts, turn. -4 sc
Row 2 & 3: Ch
1, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 5: Ch 1, sc
in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -6 sc
Row 7-18: Ch 1,
sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off at the end of Row 18.
Ears
Working in the joining round of Head find your personal placement for 2 ears. You will work a front side and back side of each, and these will be seamed together in the final steps.
Special Stitches
Single Crochet Two Together (sc3tog): Insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull through a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull through a loop, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Single Crochet Three Together (sc3tog): Insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull through a loop, [insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull through a loop] twice, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
Front Side
Row 1: With CC1, working
in front loop, sc in 3 sts, turn. -3 sc
Row 2 & 3: Ch
1, sc in each st across, turn. -3 sc
Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Row 5: Ch 1, sc
in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 7-15: Ch 1,
sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 16: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, turn. – 2 sc2tog, 1 sc
Row 17: Ch 1, sc
in each st across, turn. -3 sc
Row 18: Ch 1,
sc3tog, turn. -1 sc3tog
Row 19: Ch 1, sc
in only st, fasten off.
Back Side
Row 1: With MC, working
in back loop, sc in 3 sts, turn. -3 sc
Row 2 & 3: Ch
1, sc in each st across, turn. -3 sc
Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Row 5: Ch 1, sc
in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 7-15: Ch 1,
sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 16: Ch 1,
sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, turn. – 2 sc2tog, 1 sc
Row 17: Ch 1, sc
in each st across, turn. -3 sc
Row 18: Ch 1,
sc3tog, turn. -1 sc3tog
Row 19: Ch 1, sc
in only st, fasten off.
Working two side of each arm/leg/ear, join to the seam of the body. One side in a front loop, one side in a back loop.
Seaming All Arms/Legs/Ears
With CC2, join to any edge seam of body or head, sc in each
st across to next arm/leg/ear, working through both fabrics, evenly sc in ends
of rows and stitches, filling with poly-fil before completing seaming, continue
all the way around body, sl st to join. Fasten off.
Working all around the edge of the body, seam and stuff the arms/legs/ears
Upper Lip (Mustache)
With CC1 Ch 18, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sk next 3
chs, 9 dc in next ch, sk 3 chs, sl st in next ch, sk 3 chs, 9 dc in next ch, sk
next 3 chs, sc in last ch. Fasten off. With Shells facing downward, whip stitch
lip to face.
Tail
Round 1: With
CC1, Magic loop, ch 3, 8 dc in loop, pull loop closed, sl st to join.
Round 2: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to
join. Fasten off. Whip stitch tail to back of body, filling with poly-fil
before completing seaming.
Tail and Upper LIp
Nose
With CC2, ch 3, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, fasten
off. Whip stitch at sl st of lip.
Eyes (Make 2)
With CC3, ch 3, 5 dc in 3rd ch from hook, fasten off. Whip stitch to face.
To help you celebrate
National Crochet Month, I am sharing a technique to help advance your crochet
skills, and including a free pattern. Today I am sharing how to work Short
Rows, in both traditional and Tunisian Crochet.
First, I would like to thank Crochetville for including me in they blog tour for
this month long celebration. Everyday you are introduced to a new designer, or
hobbyist or teacher, to help inspire a new desire of crochet within you. Don’t
miss a day, check out the participants here.
There are some terms that can be a bit intimidating the
fiber arts, short rows can be one of them. However, they really are quite
straight forward.
What Makes it Special
Learning how to work short rows in crochet will help expand
crochet skills by adding subtle shaping in garments and the ability to create
dramatic effects in just about any work you wish.
A short row is exactly as it sounds, you work your row
short. Meaning you do not finish the row.
Sometimes this is worked by tapering the stitch height, by
working shorter and shorter stitches until they are near a slip stitch. The
work is turned, and possibly started by tapering the stich height upward, it is
completed.
Working As A Dart
In the case of using short rows as is seen in sewing as if a
dart, or a point in fabric, you work un-worked stitches. The next row works to
the point where two rows below the row was worked short, then it continues to
the remained of the stitches not worked three rows below.
Making A Wedge…
In the case of making a triangular shape, a multiple of
short rows are worked, so that there are fewer stiches in each row. I often use
this approach in creating shawls, essentially creating triangular wedges that I
then build atop one another.
It is this last approach that I also use to create
washcloths and potholders. I create “wedges” of triangles that work on one
another to eventually create a circle.
Starting Your Circle
Using any yarn, with a comparable size hook, these patterns are great for scrap yarns. You can adjust the size by adjusting the number of beginning chains as the foundation. Just remember that this is only half the size of the finished product, and you will remove one stitch per row on the same edge of the fabric. It can be used utilizing either traditional crochet or Tunisian, and I share a quick pattern for both below.
Short Row Washcloth/Potholder
Short Row Crochet Washcloth/Potholder- Worked in Wedges
First Wedge
Row 1: Ch 16, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. -15 sc
Row 2: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -14 sc
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 12 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -13sc
Row 4: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -12 sc
You Should Start Seeing the “Stair Stepping”
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 10 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -11sc
Row 6: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -10 sc
Don’t work the last stitch, and slip stitch in the first stitch of the next row…removing one stitch in each row on the same edge of the fabric.
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 8 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -9sc
Row 8: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -8 sc
Over Halfway on the First Wedge….
Row 9: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 6 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -7sc
Row 10: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -6 sc
Row 11: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 4 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -5sc
Row 12: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Almost There…
Row 13: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 sts, leaving last st unworked, turn. -3sc
Row 14: Sl st in same st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each st across, turn. -2 sc
Row 15: Ch 1, sc in same st, turn. -1 sc
Row 16: Sl st in same st, turn.
Second Wedge
Row 17: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in the edge stitch of Rows 15-1 (essentially either the stitch skipped in a row, or the slip stitch after the row is turned), turn. -15 sc
Row 18-32: Rep Rows 2 through 16 of wedge 1.
Wedges 3-8
Repeat Second Wedge.
Seam Wedge 1 to Wedge 8.
Tunisian Short Row Washcloth/Potholder
Short Row Tunisian Crochet Washcloth/Potholder
These same principals apply to Tunisian crochet as well.
First Wedge
Row 1: Ch 15, pick up loops in each ch across. RP. -15 sts
Row 2: Tss in next 13 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -14 tss
Row 3: Tss in next 12 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -13 tss
Row 4: Tss in next 11 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -12 tss
Still not working the last stitch…
Row 5: Tss in next 10 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -11 tss
Row 6: Tss in next 9 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -10 tss
Don’t work the last stitch of each row of Tunisian crochet, then begin the regular Return Pass. Thus removing 1 stitch from each row on the same edge of the fabric.
Row 7: Tss in next 8 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -9 tss
Row 8: Tss in next 7 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -8 tss
Are you seeing the angle?
Row 9: Tss in next 6 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -7 tss
Row 10: Tss in next 5 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -6 tss
Row 11: Tss in next 4 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -5 tss
Row 12: Tss in next 3 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -4 tss
Almost finished the first wedge…
Row 13: Tss in next 2 sts, leaving last st unworked. RP. -3 tss
Row 14: Tss in next 1 st, leaving last st unworked. RP. -2 tss
Row 15: Tss in same st, leaving last st unworked. RP. -1 tss
Second Wedge
Row 16: Pick up loops in each unworked stitch of rows below. RP.-15tss
