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S2S- In Crochet, that is Sheep to Shawl

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It is always interesting to see how different events can present themselves from contact made years earlier. This last week I was approached to help on a Sheep to Shawl team.

What is a Sheep to Shawl?

A Sheep to Shawl is an age old competition that I have seen several times at many Fiber Festivals. Each competition has slightly different rules, but only slightly. Essentially it is a team of people (usually seven) that work in a set time limit. In this time limit they prep a sheep fleece, teasing the wool and carding it. They then spin it into “singles”, then ply these “singles” together to create yarn. The yarn is then woven on a loom to create a shawl of set dimensions by the competition.

I dusted off my spinning wheel…

This is usually entirely completed in 4 hours.

A Virtual event…

With the current situation of the world most Fiber Festivals have been canceled or re-imagined. The Lambtown Festival in Dixon, California has re-imagined this competition in a virtual setting.

Teams are allowed a total of 28 hours to complete this process, but need to provide all these hours on a Zoom presentation. The 28 hours essentially creates this shawl in the same time setting as in-person, as the hours are counted from every participant.

This means that everyone is working quickly, in their own home setting,. Then figuring out how to get need supplies to the next participants to complete the steps. It is an interesting undertaking.

Where I am Invited

So in this new setting a couple of ambitious woman decided to challenge the notion of this being a woven shawl, and see if one can be crocheted instead.  I honestly am not aware of any competition that has ever worked up a crochet shawl, and we are hoping to set a new level of encouragement and interest in crochet.

This is where I was brought in. I learned to spin yarn several years ago, but I haven’t put it to practice much in the last 9 years. So, I dusted off my wheel last weekend and spun up some singles.

Join Us….

My team started out as the Stygn Gold, but with some settling in it has now become “Stitch In Time” (Sponsored by The Sacramento Crochet Guild, a Chapter of the Crochet Guild of America) will be working over the next few weekends to complete our project, and you are welcome to join us. Visit the Lambtown site for our scheduled competition times.

Wish us luck. It will be interesting to see if we can essentially create the yarn and crochet a shawl in a combined effort….

Add Fingers to Fingerless Gloves

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I see a lot of fingerless glove patterns, however not a lot of actual gloves. I have had some people tell me that they think that gloves are just too hard, well to this I disagree.

Making a Fingerless Glove

Turning any fingerless glove into an actual full fledged glove, is actually not that difficult. Begin with the basic fingerless glove, and if you want to create your own custom fit, check out more information here.

Mark your fingers

Once you have your fingerless glove made, the next set is to put it one. Take 3 removable stitch markers (or safety pins), insert them between your fingers through both the front and back of the glove fabric.

Insert stitch markers of safety pins between the fingers.

Join yarn anywhere along the finger edge of the fabric. If you were working a pattern that was stitched wrist to fingers, you can simply keep working the yarn from the last round without finishing off.

Start crocheting the “separations”

Work stitches, I recommend single crochet, evenly along edge. Work a slip stitch to the adjacent stitch (the one on the fabric on the other side of the hand) whenever you come to a stitch marker. This will create the “separation” between the fingers. I even just work this technique when I am still just creating fingerless gloves. I feel like it helps them stay in place and not twist around my hand.

When working the single crochets, slip stitch across the fabric on the opposite side of the glove to create the finger “separations”.

Spiral your fingers

When you begin to work on the opposite side of the hand, and come to a slip stitch, work a single crochet in the one leg of the slip stitch that is closest to the last single crochet worked. Single crochet in a spiral by working on the fabric side previously worked, and work a tube the length of your finger.

Finish off your yarn, and join to fabric right next to the finger just made. Make the next finger working a stitch in the “one leg” of the slip stitch, of each side of the finger, and continue with the spiral method until the length meets your need. Repeat this of the remaining two fingers.

Work a single crochet in “one leg” of the slip stitch.

Make a thumb

Work the thumb in the same manner, joining to the edge of the thumbing opening and crocheting around it. However this opening may be much larger than the end of your thumb. Work two single crochet together (sc2tog) once in the first and second round. Then continue until the desired length is reached.

Work the spirals until each finger is the desired length.

Cinch them closed

Prepare to weave in the ends. Thread the tails at the ends of the fingers through the stitches in the last round of each finger and pull tight to cinch closed.

Glove

I do recommend that working fingers, it is best to use thinner weight yarn, nothing above a sport weigh (number 3). I usually work most of my gloves, and even fingerless gloves out of wool blended yarns that are either a fine or medium weigh (number 2 or 3). This is because anything heavier just becomes too bulky and feel clumsy on my hands. The nice thing about gloves is that you can complete a pair with only one hank of yarn, and feel really accomplished in your skills.

Phoenix Poncho- Free Pattern

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I think everyone needs a little pick me up in July, so I am releasing my latest free pattern. I hope to brightens the dances of your hook.

Worked from the neck outward, this is a poncho that easily adds a bit of flare to any wardrobe. The simple stitch pattern lends to great coloring pooling and a fabulous drape.

Phoenix Poncho

Size

40” square

Skill Level

Intermediate

Gauge

5 (sc, ch-3) sts/ 13 rows=4”

Materials

  • H/8/5.0 mm crochet hook
  • Alexandra The Art if Yarn Silverton Fine weight 75% Superwash Merino/ 15% Nylon/ 10% Tencel yarn (434yrds/397m/3.5oz/100g) 1 skein each color Wine (A), Fire (B)

Notes

When joining at the end of round 1 ensure that the round is not twisted.

Neck Edging is worked as four separated corner points.

Pattern

Rnd 1: With A, ch 150, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 36 chs, [ch 2 (corner made), dc in next 37 chs] rep 3 times, ch 2, sl st to top of beg ch, (weave tail into base of the beg chain to close ring) change to B.  – 148 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

A little bit of an airy stitch…

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, {[ch 3, sk 3, sc in next st] rep across to ch-2 corner, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-2 sp, ch 1, sc in next st,} 3 times,  [ch 3, sk 3, sc in next st] rep across to ch-2 corner, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-2 sp, ch 1, sl st to join. – 40 (ch-3) sps, 8 (ch-1) sps

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, {[ch 3, sc in next sc] across to corner, ch 3, dc in ch-3 sp of corner} rep 4 times, ch 3, sc in next sc, ch 3, sl st to join.  – 4 dc, 52 (ch-3)sps

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st, {[ch 3, sc in next sc] across to corner, ch 3, (sc, ch 3, sc) in dc} rep 4 times, ch 3, sc in next sc, ch 3, sl st to join, change to A.

Making it a bit more solid…

Rnd 5: Ch 3, {[3 dc in ch-3 sp, dc in sc] rep across to corner, ch 3, dc in ch-3 corner sp, ch 3, dc in sc} rep 4 times, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, dc in sc, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, sl st to join.

Rnd 6: Ch 3, [dc in each dc across to corner, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, (dc, ch 3, dc) in dc, 3 dc in ch-3 sp] rep 4 times, dc across to first st, sl st to join.

Rnd 7: Ch 3, [dc in each dc across to corner, ch 3, dc in ch-3 sp, ch 3] rep 4 times, dc across to first st, sl st to join, change to B.

Phoenix Poncho

Back to being airy…

Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in same st, {[ch 3, sk 3, sc in next st] rep across to corner, ch 3, (sc, ch 3, sc) in dc, ch 3, sc in next dc} rep 4 times, [ch 3, sk 3, sc in next st] 3 times, sl st to join.

Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in same st, {[ch 3, sc in next sc] across to corner, ch 3, dc in ch-3 sp of corner} rep 4 times, ch 3, [sc in next sc, ch 3] across to first st, sl st to join.

Rnd 10:  Ch 1, sc in same st, {[ch 3, sc in next sc] across to corner, ch 3, (sc, ch 3, sc) in dc} rep 4 times, ch 3, [sc in next sc, ch 3] rep across to first st, sl st to join.

Rnd 11-14: Rep Rnds 9 & 10.

Rnd 15: Rep Rnd 9, changing to A at join.

A bit of solid…

Rnd 16: Ch 3, {[3 dc in ch-3 sp, dc in sc] rep across to corner, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, (dc, ch 3, dc) in dc} rep 4 times, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, [dc in sc, 3 dc in ch-3 sp] rep across to first st, sl st to join, change to B.

Needs to be airy…

Rnd 17: Rep Rnd 8.

Rnds 18-33: Rep Rnds 9 & 10, change to A at the join of Rnd 33.

Rnd 34: Rep Rnd 9.

Rnd 35: Rep Rnd 16.

Let’s finish it up…

Rnd 36: Sl st in next st, ch 3, dc in next 4 sts, ch 1 sk 1, {[dc in next 5 sts, ch 1, sk 1] rep across to corner, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch- 3 sp, ch 1, sk 1} rep 4 times, [dc in next 5 sts, ch 1, sk 1] across to first st, sl st to join.

Rnd 37: Sl st in next st, ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, {[ch 3, sk dc, sk ch-1 sp, sk dc, dc in next 3 dc] rep across to corner, ch 3, sk dc, sk ch-1 sp, sk dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in ch-1 sp} rep 4 times, [ch 3, sk dc, sk ch-1 sp, sk dc, dc in next 3 dc] across to first st, ch 3, sl st to join.

Rnd 38: Sl st in next st, ch 5, (dc, ch 2, dc) in same st, sc in ch-3 sp, sk next dc, {[(dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc) in next dc, sc in ch-3 sp] across to corner, sk next dc (dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc) in corner dc, sc in ch-3 sp} rep 4 times, [(dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc) in next dc, sc in ch-3 sp] across to first st, sl st to join. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Neck Edging, Work in each corner

Row 1: From any corner, join with B to stitch 7 away from corner, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in corner, sk next 6 sts, dc in next st, turn.

Edging: Ch 2 sc in base of dc, ch 3, sk 3 sts of neck, sc in next st, turn, ch 5, dc in center dc of Row 1, ch 1, dc in same st, ch 5, sk 3 sts from join of Row 1, sc in next st, turn, ch 3, sc in join of Row 1, ch 2, sl st to center dc in Row 1. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Making Fingerless Gloves

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Have a little yarn? Needing a quick gift? Want to get ready for cold weather? Crochet Fingerless gloves are the prefect answer.

I have created a few patterns for fingerless, and even fingered gloves over the years, but you can create your own custom fit pair pretty easily. All you need to do is create a rectangle.

That seems almost a little too simple, but this version of fingerless gloves really are that simple.

Want to follow a pattern instead, here are some of my glove patterns:

Types of Gloves

There are essentially two different approaches to creating gloves. One is to work in the round, making a tube. This approach needs a little more attention to detail, as the tube needs to adjust in size a bit to feel like a nice fit. When working from the cuff to palm there needs to be an increase a couple of rounds before the thumb and then create a loop for the thumb, while decrease a couple of stitches to help the gloves fit the fingers.

However if you work a rectangle in the length you want your gloves and continue until the width can wrap around your hand, then you can make a glove.

Pin the fabric on either side the thumb and seam the fabric together on either side.

Make your Gloves

This rectangle can be created in any stitch pattern, so you have complete creative control. If you want a bit of extra stretch I would recommend working a fabric of back loop single crochet. It offers a ribbing like effect and allows for a comfortable fit.

Then the beginning row is folded over to the last row. I place my hand in this fold and use stitch markers to mark either side of my thumb, essentially marking the opening for my thumb. Then it is as simple as seaming the edges together with the exception of the thumb opening.

It really is that simple.

I have found to step these gloves up a bit more, I find a yarn that has a great color change, or nice texture. This makes the rectangle that can really be something that is fabulous.

Tunisian Crochet -Building Skills in Designs

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Tunisian Crochet is a technique that always has something bold to offer. It seems to be a bit cyclical in the design world, making a splash every few years. With every splash creating a great surge in creativity, and the new digital release of The Tunisian Collect from I Like Crochet Magazine is no exception.

I am fortunate enough to have 2 designs in this publication.

A Teenager Loved Pillow

The Cozy At Home Tunisian Tassel Pillow is one that my teenage son liked enough that he had me make some for his room (this is always a huge reward for my work…that the kids actually like it). It really only uses two Tunisian stitches, a Simple Stitch and a Purl Stitch to create this visual effect. In addition it uses a large hook size, so it works up pretty quickly.

Cozy At Home Tunisian Tassel Pillow

I like the edging that seams the two sides as you work it, and the tassels were a definite highlight for my son, so maybe it is a new trending feature.

A Fun Hat

The In The Round Tunisian Full Stitch Hat is one that is a real skill builder. It works what I mistakenly thought was the most basic stitch in Tunisian until I learned more about it, the Full Stitch. This stitch creates a pattern of little lines that do not directly stack atop one another, but are off-set. I have always loved the look.

In The Round Tunisian Full Stitch Hat

This pattern though has a little twist, it is worked in the round. Working in the round is not something that is commonly worked in Tunisian crochet, as it is a technique worked by loading up loops on the hook and then working it back off. So you never turn the work, and it is easiest to work flat.

However I have shared some tips to working in the round, and this pattern puts it to use.

I hope you enjoy these projects and use them to build your skills in the area of Tunisian Crochet.