I see a lot of fingerless glove patterns, however not a lot of actual gloves. I have had some people tell me that they think that gloves are just too hard, well to this I disagree.
Once you have your fingerless glove made, the next set is to put it one. Take 3 removable stitch markers (or safety pins), insert them between your fingers through both the front and back of the glove fabric.
Insert stitch markers of safety pins between the fingers.
Join yarn anywhere along the finger edge of the fabric. If you were working a pattern that was stitched wrist to fingers, you can simply keep working the yarn from the last round without finishing off.
Start crocheting the “separations”
Work stitches, I recommend single crochet, evenly along edge. Work a slip stitch to the adjacent stitch (the one on the fabric on the other side of the hand) whenever you come to a stitch marker. This will create the “separation” between the fingers. I even just work this technique when I am still just creating fingerless gloves. I feel like it helps them stay in place and not twist around my hand.
When working the single crochets, slip stitch across the fabric on the opposite side of the glove to create the finger “separations”.
Spiral your fingers
When you begin to work on the opposite side of the hand, and come to a slip stitch, work a single crochet in the one leg of the slip stitch that is closest to the last single crochet worked. Single crochet in a spiral by working on the fabric side previously worked, and work a tube the length of your finger.
Finish off your yarn, and join to fabric right next to the finger just made. Make the next finger working a stitch in the “one leg” of the slip stitch, of each side of the finger, and continue with the spiral method until the length meets your need. Repeat this of the remaining two fingers.
Work a single crochet in “one leg” of the slip stitch.
Make a thumb
Work the thumb in the same manner, joining to the edge of the thumbing opening and crocheting around it. However this opening may be much larger than the end of your thumb. Work two single crochet together (sc2tog) once in the first and second round. Then continue until the desired length is reached.
Work the spirals until each finger is the desired length.
Cinch them closed
Prepare to weave in the ends. Thread the tails at the ends of the fingers through the stitches in the last round of each finger and pull tight to cinch closed.
Glove
I do recommend that working fingers, it is best to use thinner weight yarn, nothing above a sport weigh (number 3). I usually work most of my gloves, and even fingerless gloves out of wool blended yarns that are either a fine or medium weigh (number 2 or 3). This is because anything heavier just becomes too bulky and feel clumsy on my hands. The nice thing about gloves is that you can complete a pair with only one hank of yarn, and feel really accomplished in your skills.
I think everyone needs a little pick me up in July, so I am releasing my latest free pattern. I hope to brightens the dances of your hook.
Worked from the neck outward, this is a poncho that easily adds a bit of flare to any wardrobe. The simple stitch pattern lends to great coloring pooling and a fabulous drape.
Phoenix Poncho
Size
40” square
Skill Level
Intermediate
Gauge
5 (sc, ch-3) sts/ 13 rows=4”
Materials
H/8/5.0 mm crochet hook
Alexandra The Art if Yarn Silverton Fine weight 75% Superwash Merino/ 15% Nylon/ 10% Tencel yarn (434yrds/397m/3.5oz/100g) 1 skein each color Wine (A), Fire (B)
Notes
When joining at the end of round 1 ensure that the round is not twisted.
Neck Edging is worked as four separated corner points.
Pattern
Rnd 1: With A, ch 150, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 36 chs, [ch 2 (corner made), dc in next 37 chs] rep 3 times, ch 2, sl st to top of beg ch, (weave tail into base of the beg chain to close ring) change to B. – 148 dc, 4 ch-2 sps
A little bit of an airy stitch…
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, {[ch 3, sk 3, sc in next st] rep across to ch-2 corner, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-2 sp, ch 1, sc in next st,} 3 times, [ch 3, sk 3, sc in next st] rep across to ch-2 corner, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in ch-2 sp, ch 1, sl st to join. – 40 (ch-3) sps, 8 (ch-1) sps
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, {[ch 3, sc in next sc] across to corner, ch 3, dc in ch-3 sp of corner} rep 4 times, ch 3, sc in next sc, ch 3, sl st to join. – 4 dc, 52 (ch-3)sps
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st, {[ch 3, sc in next sc] across to corner, ch 3, (sc, ch 3, sc) in dc} rep 4 times, ch 3, sc in next sc, ch 3, sl st to join, change to A.
Making it a bit more solid…
Rnd 5: Ch 3, {[3 dc in ch-3 sp, dc in sc] rep across to corner, ch 3, dc in ch-3 corner sp, ch 3, dc in sc} rep 4 times, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, dc in sc, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, sl st to join.
Rnd 6: Ch 3, [dc in each dc across to corner, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, (dc, ch 3, dc) in dc, 3 dc in ch-3 sp] rep 4 times, dc across to first st, sl st to join.
Rnd 7: Ch 3, [dc in each dc across to corner, ch 3, dc in ch-3 sp, ch 3] rep 4 times, dc across to first st, sl st to join, change to B.
Phoenix Poncho
Back to being airy…
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in same st, {[ch 3, sk 3, sc in next st] rep across to corner, ch 3, (sc, ch 3, sc) in dc, ch 3, sc in next dc} rep 4 times, [ch 3, sk 3, sc in next st] 3 times, sl st to join.
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in same st, {[ch 3, sc in next sc] across to corner, ch 3, dc in ch-3 sp of corner} rep 4 times, ch 3, [sc in next sc, ch 3] across to first st, sl st to join.
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in same st, {[ch 3, sc in next sc] across to corner, ch 3, (sc, ch 3, sc) in dc} rep 4 times, ch 3, [sc in next sc, ch 3] rep across to first st, sl st to join.
Rnd 11-14: Rep Rnds 9 & 10.
Rnd 15: Rep Rnd 9, changing to A at join.
A bit of solid…
Rnd 16: Ch 3, {[3 dc in ch-3 sp, dc in sc] rep across to corner, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, (dc, ch 3, dc) in dc} rep 4 times, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, [dc in sc, 3 dc in ch-3 sp] rep across to first st, sl st to join, change to B.
Needs to be airy…
Rnd 17: Rep Rnd 8.
Rnds 18-33: Rep Rnds 9 & 10, change to A at the join of Rnd 33.
Rnd 34: Rep Rnd 9.
Rnd 35: Rep Rnd 16.
Let’s finish it up…
Rnd 36: Sl st in next st, ch 3, dc in next 4 sts, ch 1 sk 1, {[dc in next 5 sts, ch 1, sk 1] rep across to corner, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in ch- 3 sp, ch 1, sk 1} rep 4 times, [dc in next 5 sts, ch 1, sk 1] across to first st, sl st to join.
Rnd 37: Sl st in next st, ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, {[ch 3, sk dc, sk ch-1 sp, sk dc, dc in next 3 dc] rep across to corner, ch 3, sk dc, sk ch-1 sp, sk dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in ch-1 sp} rep 4 times, [ch 3, sk dc, sk ch-1 sp, sk dc, dc in next 3 dc] across to first st, ch 3, sl st to join.
Rnd 38: Sl st in next st, ch 5, (dc, ch 2, dc) in same st, sc in ch-3 sp, sk next dc, {[(dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc) in next dc, sc in ch-3 sp] across to corner, sk next dc (dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc) in corner dc, sc in ch-3 sp} rep 4 times, [(dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc) in next dc, sc in ch-3 sp] across to first st, sl st to join. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Neck Edging, Work in each corner
Row 1: From any corner, join with B to stitch 7 away from corner, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in corner, sk next 6 sts, dc in next st, turn.
Edging: Ch 2 sc in base of dc, ch 3, sk 3 sts of neck, sc in next st, turn, ch 5, dc in center dc of Row 1, ch 1, dc in same st, ch 5, sk 3 sts from join of Row 1, sc in next st, turn, ch 3, sc in join of Row 1, ch 2, sl st to center dc in Row 1. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Have a little yarn? Needing a quick gift? Want to get ready for cold weather? Crochet Fingerless gloves are the prefect answer.
I have created a few patterns for fingerless, and even fingered gloves over the years, but you can create your own custom fit pair pretty easily. All you need to do is create a rectangle.
That seems almost a little too simple, but this version of fingerless gloves really are that simple.
Want to follow a pattern instead, here are some of my glove patterns:
There are essentially two different approaches to creating gloves. One is to work in the round, making a tube. This approach needs a little more attention to detail, as the tube needs to adjust in size a bit to feel like a nice fit. When working from the cuff to palm there needs to be an increase a couple of rounds before the thumb and then create a loop for the thumb, while decrease a couple of stitches to help the gloves fit the fingers.
However if you work a rectangle in the length you want your gloves and continue until the width can wrap around your hand, then you can make a glove.
Pin the fabric on either side the thumb and seam the fabric together on either side.
Make your Gloves
This rectangle can be created in any stitch pattern, so you have complete creative control. If you want a bit of extra stretch I would recommend working a fabric of back loop single crochet. It offers a ribbing like effect and allows for a comfortable fit.
Then the beginning row is folded over to the last row. I place my hand in this fold and use stitch markers to mark either side of my thumb, essentially marking the opening for my thumb. Then it is as simple as seaming the edges together with the exception of the thumb opening.
It really is that simple.
I have found to step these gloves up a bit more, I find a yarn that has a great color change, or nice texture. This makes the rectangle that can really be something that is fabulous.
Tunisian Crochet is a technique that always has something bold to offer. It seems to be a bit cyclical in the design world, making a splash every few years. With every splash creating a great surge in creativity, and the new digital release of The Tunisian Collect from I Like Crochet Magazine is no exception.
I am fortunate enough to have 2 designs in this publication.
A Teenager Loved Pillow
The Cozy At Home Tunisian Tassel Pillow is one that my teenage son liked enough that he had me make some for his room (this is always a huge reward for my work…that the kids actually like it). It really only uses two Tunisian stitches, a Simple Stitch and a Purl Stitch to create this visual effect. In addition it uses a large hook size, so it works up pretty quickly.
Cozy At Home Tunisian Tassel Pillow
I like the edging that seams the two sides as you work it,
and the tassels were a definite highlight for my son, so maybe it is a new
trending feature.
A Fun Hat
The In The Round Tunisian Full Stitch Hat is one that is a real skill builder. It works what I mistakenly thought was the most basic stitch in Tunisian until I learned more about it, the Full Stitch. This stitch creates a pattern of little lines that do not directly stack atop one another, but are off-set. I have always loved the look.
In The Round Tunisian Full Stitch Hat
This pattern though has a little twist, it is worked in the
round. Working in the round is not something that is commonly worked in Tunisian
crochet, as it is a technique worked by loading up loops on the hook and then
working it back off. So you never turn the work, and it is easiest to work flat.
I have always had a soft spot for Rabbits, and as such I have always loved this time of year as it brings out Easter Bunnies everywhere. I have created a simple free pattern for a toy bunny, that might be just perfect for a little one in your life. This is an amigurumi for the beginner, as it has minimal shaping, I like the rustic charm.
Jack the Scrap Rabbit and Jack the Rabbit
This free pattern is part of the 2020 Softie CAL! There are many great designs to keep you inspired, check all of them out here. Also, don’t miss the giveaways.
Materials
Lion Brand Basic Stitch Premium 100% acrylic medium weight yarn (3.5 oz/100g/219yd/200m) colors: MC-#126 Goldmine, CC1-#98 Cream, CC2-#142 Boysenberry, CC3- #109 Coastal (OR, make a Scrap Jack, by using any medium weight yearn on hand)
Poly-Fils Crafters Choice Dry Polyester Packing Fiber Fill
G/6/4.25mm crochet hook
Note…Save your time weaving in ends. Instead of weaving in ends, simply push the ends to the wrong side of the fabric, when seaming and stuffing ensure that the ends are with the stuffing.
Round 2: Ch 3, dc
in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join. -28dc
Round 3: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to
join. -42 dc
Round 4: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around, sl st
to join. -56 dc
Round 5: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around, sl st
to join. Fasten off. -70 dc
Back (Make 1)
Round 1: With MC,
Magic Loop, ch 3, 13 dc in loop, pull loop closed, sl st to top of beg ch. -14
dc
Round 2: Ch 3, dc
in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join. -28dc
Round 3: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to
join. -42 dc
Round 4: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around, sl st
to join. -56 dc
Round 5: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around, sl st
to join. -70 dc
Round 6: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 4 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts] around, sl st
to join. Fasten Off. -84 dc
Belly (Make 1)
Round 1: With CC1,
Magic Loop, ch 3, 13 dc in loop, pull loop closed, sl st to top of beg ch. -14
dc
Round 2: Ch 3, dc
in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to join. -28dc
Round 3: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to
join. -42 dc
Round 4: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around, sl st
to join. -56 dc
Round 5: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 3 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around, sl st
to join, change to MC. -70 dc
Round 6: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next 4 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts] around, sl st
to join. Fasten Off. -84 dc
Two heads, a Belly and a Back
Joining Head to Body
With Right sides facing each other, stack 1 Head on the
Back, working through stitches of both fabrics, sl st in 10 stitches. Repeat
with last Head and Belly.
Join a head to a body, with rights sides facing each other when joining.
With Wrong Sides facing each other, stack the 2 sides on top
of each other, working through stitches of both fabrics, sc around the entire
outer edge of sides, filling with poly-fil before completely finishing. (Tip:
Begin joining near neck to ensure that the neck of both sides matchup)
Putting the wrong sides facing each other of head/body seam the body together and stuff it as you go.
Arms/Legs
Working in the joining round of Head and Body, find your
personal placement for 2 legs and 2 arms. You will work a front side and back
side of each, and these will be seamed together in the final steps.
Front Side
Row 1: With MC, working
in front loop, sc in 4 sts, turn. -4 sc
Row 2 & 3: Ch
1, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 5: Ch 1, sc
in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -6 sc
Row 7-18: Ch 1,
sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off at the end of Row 18.
Back Side
Row 1: With MC, working
in back loop, sc in 4 sts, turn. -4 sc
Row 2 & 3: Ch
1, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 5: Ch 1, sc
in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -6 sc
Row 7-18: Ch 1,
sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off at the end of Row 18.
Ears
Working in the joining round of Head find your personal placement for 2 ears. You will work a front side and back side of each, and these will be seamed together in the final steps.
Special Stitches
Single Crochet Two Together (sc3tog): Insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull through a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull through a loop, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Single Crochet Three Together (sc3tog): Insert hook into indicated stitch, yo, pull through a loop, [insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull through a loop] twice, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
Front Side
Row 1: With CC1, working
in front loop, sc in 3 sts, turn. -3 sc
Row 2 & 3: Ch
1, sc in each st across, turn. -3 sc
Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Row 5: Ch 1, sc
in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 7-15: Ch 1,
sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 16: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, turn. – 2 sc2tog, 1 sc
Row 17: Ch 1, sc
in each st across, turn. -3 sc
Row 18: Ch 1,
sc3tog, turn. -1 sc3tog
Row 19: Ch 1, sc
in only st, fasten off.
Back Side
Row 1: With MC, working
in back loop, sc in 3 sts, turn. -3 sc
Row 2 & 3: Ch
1, sc in each st across, turn. -3 sc
Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Row 5: Ch 1, sc
in each st across, turn. -4 sc
Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc
in first st, sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 7-15: Ch 1,
sc in each st across, turn. -5 sc
Row 16: Ch 1,
sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog, turn. – 2 sc2tog, 1 sc
Row 17: Ch 1, sc
in each st across, turn. -3 sc
Row 18: Ch 1,
sc3tog, turn. -1 sc3tog
Row 19: Ch 1, sc
in only st, fasten off.
Working two side of each arm/leg/ear, join to the seam of the body. One side in a front loop, one side in a back loop.
Seaming All Arms/Legs/Ears
With CC2, join to any edge seam of body or head, sc in each
st across to next arm/leg/ear, working through both fabrics, evenly sc in ends
of rows and stitches, filling with poly-fil before completing seaming, continue
all the way around body, sl st to join. Fasten off.
Working all around the edge of the body, seam and stuff the arms/legs/ears
Upper Lip (Mustache)
With CC1 Ch 18, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sk next 3
chs, 9 dc in next ch, sk 3 chs, sl st in next ch, sk 3 chs, 9 dc in next ch, sk
next 3 chs, sc in last ch. Fasten off. With Shells facing downward, whip stitch
lip to face.
Tail
Round 1: With
CC1, Magic loop, ch 3, 8 dc in loop, pull loop closed, sl st to join.
Round 2: Ch 3, dc
in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, sl st to
join. Fasten off. Whip stitch tail to back of body, filling with poly-fil
before completing seaming.
Tail and Upper LIp
Nose
With CC2, ch 3, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, fasten
off. Whip stitch at sl st of lip.
Eyes (Make 2)
With CC3, ch 3, 5 dc in 3rd ch from hook, fasten off. Whip stitch to face.
