It is not often considered, how many ways can I work into a foundation chain? The answer can be a bit surprising as it is six.
Typically when you start a crochet project, it doesn’t really matter how you work into the chain. As long as you are consistent and work into the chain the same way every stitch, everything is fine. However the chain has a unique structure and how you work into it can give you a little different result.
The Foundation Chain…the beginning of all crochet projects.
There are 3 parts to every chain. Often these are referred to as the top loop, the bottom loop, and the back bump. This is referenced by looking down at the chain seeing a “V” that looks like the top of a completed row of crochet.
Yet it may make more sense to think of the chain as the top of a crochet row. In which case the “top most loop” would be the back loop. The “bottom most loop” would be the front loop. While the Back Bump would be where the post of the crochet stitches would be located.
The most common ways to start a chain utilize inserting the hook into 1 or 2 loops. Inserting the hook under just 1 loop can be a really good option if you crochet tightly. Working in either to top/back loop, the back bump, or the bottom/front loop allow for the yarn from the remaining 2 loops to be pulled up. This gives a bit more flexibility in your fabric.
Working in 1 loop of the foundation chain
One of the most commonly used, inserting the hook under the top/back loop. This is a great way for tight crocheters to begin their work.Working in the bottom/front loop is probably the least used. You need to rotate the chain so that the back bump is facing upward and insert the hook under the now top most loop. Rotating the cahin creates a different effect. Working in the Back Bump…with the “v” of the chain facing downward, insert the hook under the bump of the chain. This can look like a raised vertebrae of a dinosaur. It offers the neatest finish on the bottom edge of the crochet fabric.
An additional consideration for working only in the back bump is that the bottom of the stitch fabric will resemble the top of the crochet stitches. This can be a very nice finishing trick.
If you happen to be a loose crocheter using only 1 loop can cause there to be a wide gap between the bottom of the crochet stitch and the unused 2 loops of the chain. It might feel a bit flimsy.
Working into 2 lops of the foundation chain
Working through the top/back loop and back bump is the most common approach for working in 2 loops of the foundation chain.A bit uncommon, but rotating the chain so the the back bump is facing, you can insert your hook under the back bump and the bottom/front loop (the rotation of the chain will place them at the top of the chain)Working under the top/back and bottom/front loops of the chain is probably the tightest and most sturdy method to work into a chain as it has the least amount of opportunity to stretch out of shape and create gapping
The methods of working in 2 loops, be it the top/back loop & back bump, or the top/back & bottom/front loop, or the bottom/front loop and back bump results in less flexibility. This may be a bit more stable, but if you are a tight crocheter this might be a little difficult to work. For a loose crocheter this approach may offer the least amount of “gapping”.
In the large scheme of things, each of these approaches offer just a little subtle difference. So, play with it and see what you may like.
Not all yarn is created equal so have some insight when substituting yarn in projects. There are various things that make a difference in this product and the fiber/material that is spun can be a much overlooked reason for a successful project. Essentially there are 3 different classification of materials: protein based, cellulous based, and synthetic.
Substituting Yarn- Protein Based
Protein based yarns are those made from a material from an animal, and put up in a hank (learn how to use a hank here). This can be wool, silk, alpaca, camel, bison, and et cetera. These fibers have some unique properties, for example wool can keep you warm even after it is wet. Wool is also fire resistant, meaning that it will only burn if it has a flame to it. In addition wool is “springy” and has some stretch.
While silk is actually warmer that wool, it will not keep you warm after it gets wet. Silk is also a very strong fiber that can be added to other fibers to help increase its strength.
If you ever wonder about how to care for a protein based yarn, think about how you would treat your own hair. If you would not treat your own hair with a certain product then don’t use it on your yarn.
Substituting Yarn- Cellulous Based
Cellulous based yarns are comprised of those like cotton, and linen. These fibers typically “breath” well and are considered very comfortable. Linen, while it can “wrinkle” it repels dirt. Cotton can absorb twice its weight in water, so it helps to make a handy dishcloth.
Synthetics
Synthetic based yarns, are those fibers that you cannot readily make or grow yourself. The most common in retail yarns is acrylic, but you can also find polyester, nylon, and such. Acrylic is a petroleum based product and it can be made to mimic any other fiber in feel, but it will not share the same properties as that fiber. It is actually mold resistant, but it is effected by long term or high heat. Heat will change the structural properties of the yarn, making it feel and behave differently than when first produced.
The fiber that makes up a yarn effect the outcome of your project, and the highlights listed above are just a quick overview of the properties. So, when substituting a yarn in your next project, don’t just look at the weight and yardage, also give some thought to the fiber content, you will improve the project outcome.
Wow! I am so excited to join you for another year of the Moogly CAL (check out all the squares here). This year my block has a few ends to weave in, and it uses more back post stitches than some may be accustom to. However I am happy with the results and I hope you like it too.
This block features texture work more than actual color work. Meaning if you want to work this block in only one color it will still be just as dramatic. Back Post Stitches are utilized as it really helps to add a great amount of textural and visual interest. The result of the stitch creates an raised affect that can be reminiscent of surface crochet. Tops of the stitches below become highlighted, adding the “chain” look on the surface of the fabric.
Jan’s Joy-Full Jamboree Block
Much of the remaining texture comes form working cluster stitches in places below the actual working round. I really love how this breaks up the visual rounds of the fabric and help add a continuous lines of texture. They almost act as “links” helping the eye dance along various “features”.
The block is named for two of my long time students, Jan and Joy. Both have had a trying year, yet crochet has continued to be an outlet. As many of us already realize crochet can be our therapy, just the movement of our hands help our mind. Fortunately it can do even more, by bringing people together. I look forward to seeing them at our weekly jamboree and helping them on their crochet journeys.
Treble Crochet 3 Cluster (tr3CL): Yo twice, insert hook into indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo twice, insert hook into same st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo twice, insert hook into same st, yo pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops.
Treble Crochet 2 Together (tr2tog): Yo twice, insert hook into the first indicated stitch, yo pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo twice, insert hook into the next stitch indicated, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo, pull through all 3 loops.
If you do not feel comfortable with standing stitches, they can be substituted by simply slip stitching to the indicated stitch, and creating a chain equivalent to the turning chain for the indicated stitch type. But if you want to learn about them, I offer a photo tutorial here. And Moogly offers a video here.
Pattern for this block of the Moogly CAL
Rnd 1: With A, Ch 5, dc in 5th ch from hook, ch 1 (dc in same st, ch 1) 6 times, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 dc, 8 ch-1 sps
Rnd 2: With B, join to any dc with a ssc, 3fpdc in same dc, (sc, 3 fpdc in each dc around, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 sc, 24 fpdc
Rnd 2, work 3 front post double crochets around the same stitch
Rnd 3: With C, join to any sc with a shdc, ch 2, hdc in same st, ch 1, [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next sc, ch 1] around, sl st to join. – 8 (hdc, ch 2, hdc), 8 ch-1 sps
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same sp, 5 dc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next hdc, ch 1, [sc in next hdc, 5 dc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next hdc, ch 1] rep around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 (5 dc shells), 8 ch-1 sps
Finished Round 3, and beginning of Round 4
We work our first Clusters in this Moogly CAL
Rnd 5: With D, join with a sbpdc to the first dc of any 5-dc shell, bpdc in the next 4 dc sts, ch 1, tr3CL in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (in Rnd 3), ch 1, [bpdc in each dc on next shell, ch 1, tr3CL in the ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (in Rnd 3), ch 1,] around, sl st to join, fasten off. – 8 tr3CL, 40 bpdc, 16 ch-1 sps
Working Rnd 5, the tr3CL works around the ch-1 sp in Rnd 3Finished the tr3CL and started the next bpdc
Rnd 6: With A, join with a ssc to a bpdc just before a tr3Cl, [tr2tog in the next sc 2 rows below (Rnd 4) and in the next sc 2 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), sc in each bpdc] around, sl st to join. –8 tr2tod, 40 sc,
First insertion point for the tr2tog worked in rnd 4Second insertion point for the tr2togThe tr2tog
Rnd 7: Sl st in tr2tog st, ch 5, (tr, ch 1) 3 times in same st, tr in same st, ch 1, sk 2 sc, blsc in next sc, [ch, 1 (tr, ch 1) 4 times in next tr2tog, tr in same st, sk 2 sc, ch 1, blsc in next sc] around, ch 1, sl st to 4th ch of ch 5 to join, fasten off. –8 (tr, ch 1) fans, 8 sc
Finished Rnd 7
Back Post stitches create an interesting checker of color
Rnd 8: With B, join with a sbpdc to the 1st tr of any fan, dc in ch-1 sp, bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, 2 bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch- 1 sp, bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, bpdc in next tr, tr3Cl in unused front loop of sc 3 rnds below (Rnd 6), [bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, bpdc innext tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, 2 bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch- 1 sp, bpdc in next tr, dc in next ch-1 sp, bpdc in next tr, tr3Cl in unused front loop of sc 3 rnds below (Rnd 6)] around, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 tr3cl, 48 bpdc, 32 dc
Rnd 8, location of tr3CL in front loop of Rnd 6Rnd 8 after working the tr3Cl…don’t forget the 2 bpdc at the top of the fan
Lets Start Squaring Things Up
Rnd 9: With C, join with a sdc to any of the 1st bpdc of the center of fan (the 2 bpdc worked in the same st), ch 2, dc in next bpsc (corner made), bpdc in next 4 sts, tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, bpdc in the next 2 sts,tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 4 sts, [dc in next bpdc, ch 2, dc in next bpdc (corner made), bpdc in next 4 sts, tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts, bphdc in the next 2 sts, bpdc in the next 2 sts,tr2tog in the ch-1 sp 3 rows below (Rnd 7) and in the next ch-1 sp 3 rnds below (on the other side of the tr3CL), bpdc in next 4 sts] 3 times, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 tr2tog, 8 sc
One side of the block! Working rnd 9
Watch the stitch changes, we are flattening out the sides
Rnd 10: With D, join with sdc in any corner ch-2 sp, ch 2, dc in same sp, [bpdc in next 6 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp of corner] 3 times, bpdc in next 6 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, bpsc in next 2 sts, bphdc in next 2 sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, sl st to join.
Rnd 11: Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 corner, dc in each st across to corner, [(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 corner sp, dc in each st across] around, sl st to join, fasten off. –104 dc (26 dc each side)
On the Home Stretch, the Moogly CAL block is almost done…
Rnd 12: With C, join with shdc in any corner ch-2 sp, ch 2, hdc in same st, [blhdc in next 7 sts, tr3Cl in the top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9) (note: skip the stitch directly behind the cluster, here and throughout), blhdc in next 10 sts, tr3Cl in top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9), blhdc in next 7 sts, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 corner sp] 3 times, blhdc in next 7 sts, tr3Cl in the top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9), blhdc in next 10 sts, tr3Cl in top of the tr2tog 4 rnds below (Rnd 9), blhdc in next 7 sts, sl st to join, fasten off. –8 tr3Cl
Rnd 13: With A, join with ssc in any ch-2 corner, ch 2, sc in same sp, blsc in each st across, [(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 corner sp, blsc in each st across] around, sl st to join, fasten off. –116 sc (29 sc each side)
The Mélange Blanket Mystery Crochet Along is a great project to learn new skills and check out the work of 48 different designers…while being able to win prizes. There is a new 6″ block releases every week, and our host, Underground Crafter keeps everything flowing smoothly. Check out all the details here: Underground Crafter
My contributing 6″ block came along this year due to a textured project I was working on this fall. I was to create a textured design in the round. This led to playing with post stitches, and marrying in some techniques from overlay crochet. By working in the back loops, and leaving the front loops unworked gave new ways to explore playing with colors. So some clusters and tall stitches help me to make up this floral design.
Honestly, I love how this block came out. It reminds me of older wallpaper or fabric prints. I have been playing with putting different colors in the A, B, C positions, and any working a small throw up for myself. Something I don’t do all that often.
I hope you enjoy it!
Yesteryear Rose Block
Yesteryear Rose Block
Materials
King Cole Aran Fashion medium weight 70% acrylic, 30% wool yarn (219 yrds/200m/3.6oz/100g) 1 skien each color: (A) #3509 Rose Gold, (B) #3508 Navy Blue, (C) #3510 Olive
J/10/6mm crochet hook
Abbreviations/Special Stitches
Bldc– Back Loop Double Crochet
Bpdc– Back Post Double Crochet
Dc3Cluster: [Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2] 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops.
TrLeaf: Yo 2 times, insert hook as if front post st around bpdc stitch 3 rnds below (Row 2) that is immediately below working st, yo, pull through, [yo, pull through 2] twice, yo 2 times, insert hook into unused front loop of next stitch in Rnd 1, yo, pull through, [yo, pull through 2] twice, yo 2 times, insert hook as if front post around next bpdc stitch 3 rnds below (Rnd2), yo, pull throu, [yo, pull through 2] twice, yo pull through 4
Gauge – 6″x6″ block
TrLeaf -The first hook insertion pointTrLeaf- The second insertion pointTrLeaf- The third insertion point
Pattern
Rnd 1: Start with A, ch 4, 15 dc in 4th ch from hook, sl st to join, fasten off. -16 sts
Rnd 2: With B join to back loop of any st, ch 3, bpdc around same st, (bldc, bpdc) in each st around. Sl st to join, fasten off. -16 dc, 16 bpdc
Yesteryear Rose- Round 2
Making Petals
Rnd 3: Join with A, to any bldc, ch 1, sc in same st, ch 1, sk 1 st, working in the front loop of Rnd 1,dc3Cluster in front loop 2 rnds below, ch 1, sk 1 sts, [sc in next bldc , ch 1, sk 1 st, working in the front loop of Rnd 1,dc3Cluster in front loop 2 rnds below, ch 1, sk 1 sts} round, sl st to join, fasten off. -8 Dc3Clusters
Working in the Front Loop of Round 1 (2 Rounds Below)Yesteryear Rose Block- Round 3
Rnd 4: With B, join to any Dc3Cluster, ch 1, sc in same st, 2 dc in ch-1 sp, fpdc around next st 2 rows below (Row 2), 2 dc in ch-1 sp,[ sc in next Dc3Cluster, 2 dc in ch-1 sp, fpdc around next st 3 rows below, 2 dc in ch-1 sp] around, sl st to join, fasten off. 8 fpdc 2 rows below
Working Round 4
Making Leaves
Round 5: With C, join to the back loop of any sc, ch 1, sc in same st, blsc in next 2 sts, [TrLeaf, blsc in next 11 sts] 3 times, TrLeaf, blsc in next 8 sts, sl st to join, fasten off.
Working Round 5 -Yesteryear Rose
Rnd 6: Join with B to any TrLeaf, ch 1, sc in same st, hdc in the next 2 unused front loops of sts 2 rnds below, blsc in next st, dc in next 2 unused loops of sts 2 rnd below, (2sc, ch 2, 2sc) in next st corner made, [dc in next 2 unused loops of sts 2 rnds below, blsc in sc, hdc in the next 2 unused front loops of sts 2 rnds below, sc in TrLeaf, hdc in next 2 unused front loops of sts 2 rnds belwo, blsc in next st, dc in next 2 unused loops of sts 2 rnd below, (2sc, ch 2, 2sc) in next st corner made] 3 times, dc in next 2 unused loops of sts 2 rnd below, blsc, hdc in the next 2 unused front loops of sts 2 rnds below, sl st to join.
Round 7: Ch 1, sc in same st, [sc in each st across to ch-2 sp, (2sc, ch2, 2sc) in ch-2 sp] rep 4 times, sc in each st across, sl st to join.
I got a unique opportunity….I got to tour Madeline Tosh yarns. I was at an industry meeting in Texas, and one of the highlights was getting to see the behind the scene action at the company.
That means, all the steps in the process of them obtaining, dyeing, and bringing their beautiful yarn to the hands of crocheters and knitters everywhere.
What was most surprising to me was that this large yarn company still does everything by hand. The steps were the same as those I have witnessed many times when stopping by the chat at Lisa Souza Dyeworks. Lisa is the only employee, doing all the work herself, and Madeline Tosh does all the same steps and handwork, but with many more people.
Tour Madeline Tosh: How it starts
The process starts with winding yarn into hanks from cones. Fortunately there is a machine that can help to wind a few hanks at a time. It still needs human interaction, and someone to create the ties that keep the hanks orderly.
The white circles on the green bars, that is the machine that winds cones into hanks…10 at a time.
These hanks are then organized by fiber contents (the yarn bases). Now they are ready to make it to the process to be dyed. When an order comes in, these bases are pulled and taken to a dyers “kitchen”. The warehouse had several kitchen stations set up. Each with an employee that would fulfill orders, dyeing 2 hanks at a time.
The dye room…with “kitchen” stations, at least that is how I refer to them, with a stove top and pots…so they can dye 2 hanks at a time.
Tour Madeline Tosh: The Extras
If the order has “speckles” there is an additional special dye room. There is another employee that adds these extras. Just imagine speckling yarn…as a job…that just seems so cool.
The “special additions” dye room, where that add the extras like speckles of color.
Color is then set, and yarn dried before being wound and labeled. All by hand. This is also where they have quality checks to ensure that only the best gets sent out into the world.
Labeling and quality control…well it is being discussed in the photo, at a table full of yarn pulled for a stores order…
Impressions
All the employees seems like they are family, with many working for the company for several years. They help in new color creations and naming. It seems like the place where people actually want to work, and that is always a nice feeling.
I was surprised at how it really was just a larger version of what Lisa Souza Dyeworks does. I guess when you find the formula that works, you don’t mess with a good thing.
