Category Archives: Crochet Understanding

Crochet Picots- 4 Ways

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Crochet picots can add a finished style to any fabric, and can be created 4 ways. Four different approaches can result in four different effects.

The Picot stitch is a little “bump” or “nub” that is created to embellish edges of fabrics. I have on occasion used a picot in the middle of a pattern. I have done this as a place to work stitches in subsequent rows. It really helps to center up the stitch location, while creating a very tight point in the design.

Four ways to make a picot L-R: Slip Stitch in front loop and side leg, slip stitch back to front atop stitch, slip stitch front to back atop stitch, slip stitch in first chain

The way that you create chain stitches can actually effect the outcome of the overall picot. I do not go into much detail about Yarn Over and Yarn Under in this post. You can learn more about it here. One of the primary differences is that Yarn Under the chain lays differently. This can cause the stitch to not stand out, resulting in a definite need for blocking.

Crochet Picot- Slip Stitch First Chain

There are many patterns that describe a picot by creating 3 chains and slip stitching in the first chain created. This creates a picot that is more flimsy, in the respect that is moves freer in all directions, than the other approaches. I feel that it is more likely to create a space between the stitch it is worked atop of and the next stitch worked.

Chain 3, slip stitch to first chain created
Picot created by slip stitch in first chain created

Crochet Picot- Slip Stitch Atop Stitch

Some patterns describe a picot as: “chain 3, slip stitch on top of the stitch the chain is worked atop”. I find that by working the slip stitch either from the front or the back can create a bit of a difference. Working a slip stitch from the front of the stitch to the back of the stitch, as is most readily done, twist for me. This doesn’t cause any problems, however I find that working the slip stitch from the back of the stitch to the front (in a completely different method than is traditional) creates a picot that sits more flat and dominate for me.

Chain 3, slip stitch atop stitch below chain (front to back)
Picot created with slip stitch atop stitch (front to back)
Chain 3, slip stitch atop stitch below chain (back to front)
Picot created by slip stitch atop (back to front)

Both of the “slip stitch to the top of the stitch” methods create a sturdy picot that stays in place. I also find that mine tend to recess to one side of the fabric.

Crochet Picot- Front Loop and Side Leg

The last approach to a picot is the method worked in the Crochet Guild of America’s Master Program. It results in a stable and readily repeatable picot that does not lead to any stitch distortion. This approach is uses a chain 3 and a slip stitch, inserting the hook through the front loop of the stitch that the chain is worked atop as well as the side of the “leg” of the stitch. I find the movement of creating this stitch to be a downward motion as I pick up the front loop, and a slight angle to catch the side of the leg that is away from all other stitches.

Chain 3, slip stitch through front loop and side leg of stitch below chain
Picot created through front loop and side leg

I find this approach to sit more in line with the fabric, from all angles, while being study.

Honestly, this last approach is often my go to, yet it can be more confusing written in patterns, so the picot stitch is often described as “in the first chain” or “atop the same stitch”. Just know that there is usually no reason that you cannot substitute the approaches to the picot stitch with one that you prefer instead. Give each approach a try and see what works best for you.

Swirls of Color in Crochet

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Creating swirls of color in crochet are easier than it seems. I love using this technique to create hats and have even used it to create a large circular blanket.

To create a swirl start with any method you like to begin a circle (check out the three most popular). Determine the number of stitches for the first round. In this sample I used 12 double crochet stitches.

Divide the number of stitches in the first round by the number of colors to be used. In this case I am using 2 colors, so that is 6 stitches in each color.

Getting started

Work the first stitch as a shorter stitch, for instance a single crochet. Then work the next 5 stitches as a double crochet.

Add the second color by joining directly after the last stitch made. Either slip stitch and chain or use a standing stitch join (learn that trick here). Work another short stitch, a single crochet, and another 5 double crochets. This completes the first round.

Crochet Swirls end of Round 1

Crochet Color Swirls Round 2

Insert the hook back into the loop of the first color (insert a stitch marker in this stitch), working over the second color work 2 double crochets in each stitch.

The first color of round 2.

Pick up the second color and work 2 double crochets in each stitch until the stitch marker. This will complete Round 2. Move marker to the last stitch worked in the first color. Notice how it the stitch increases were worked just as a non-color changing round (see my crochet hat formula for how to create a flat circle).

Completed Round 2

Round 3

Round 3 would be worked with an increase (2 double crochets) and a regular stitch (1 double crochet), so with the 2 colors, pick up the first color work [2 double crochets in the next stitch and then 1 double crochet] to the end of the second color. Pick up the second color and work the same stitch pattern to the stitch marker. This is the end of Round 3.

Completed 3 rounds

Move the stitch marker to the end of the first color, after the second color reaches it, and continue working the “flat circle formula” until it is the desired size.

To make the edges smooth, finish by working shorter stitches in each color, For example work 1 half double crochet, then 1 single crochet, and finally a slip stitch, and fasten off.

Seaming Crochet, it is a flatter join.

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Sometimes the things that hold you up are the simple ones, like seaming crochet projects. It is a process that has a different focus than what you have been doing and it can seam daunting to change the thought process. However once you finally get on to doing it, it doesn’t take all that long. Sometimes I want a seam that doesn’t stand as tall in the overall project and have found this technique makes a flatter join.

Different Joins

There are a few different ways to work seaming crochet, one can insert a hook through both fabrics and work a simple crochet or a slip stitch. Creating a slight ridge and a firm joining.

One can work the fabric as a “join as you go”. Saving a bit of yarn and creating a rope like appearance where the seam comes together. (I share my technique here)

Getting more creative

Then you can get a bit more creative and instead of working the fabric together in the same stitch work alternating stitches in each fabric. This “zig zag” effect can be made lacy by adding chains between stitches, and in general creates a wider seam that lays flatter.

It is relatively simple, and my example is highlighting a simple single crochet stitch.

Place the fabrics wrong sides’ together, work a single crochet on the fabric edge closest to you. Now work a single crochet in the fabric furthest from you, minding that you work it right next to the stitch just created (not behind it). Next work a single crochet in the fabric closest to you next to the stitch created (not in front of it).

A stitch in the fabric closest to you, then a stitch in the fabric furthest from you…
Now work a a stitch in the fabric closest to you…but skip a stitch….

Essentially on each piece of fabric it will be like working a stitch and then skipping a stitch, but the skipped stitch is worked in the other fabric.

This seaming technique lays flatter then working through both fabrics together.

Give this little back and forth seaming a try, you might just find that it keeps you mind engaged and ends up giving you a result that quite charming. All you have to do is change your focus.

Crochet Bag Handles- The Best 3

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I need crochet bag handles. Crochet bags have one hurdle for me, finishing them with handles. There are many great handles out there, I could easily purchase leather strapping or wooden rings or traditional purse straps. I could even head to the thrift store and find a cheap handbag that I love the handles on, and cut them off for my bag…but there is a common theme in these approaches; I have to go and get something.

This “final step” is my constant hang up. It is bad enough that I have to weave in the ends; just this step can leave an item sitting in a pile for a while. So, finding a handles solution that does not become a “final stage” has been paramount to my actually completing these projects.

I have come up with 3 crochet bag handles that fit my needs very well. Ones I could actually make and attach are the requirements. Added to these requirements are the need that they not be flimsy and don’t stretch too much.

The first is make it a Tunisian crochet bag handle.

Tunisian crochet fabric, under certain conditions curls. I have taken this trait that is often seen as a deterrent and turned it into a benefit. To create this handle, I simply create a chain for the desired length of the handle using a Tunisian hook size that is a bit smaller then I would normally use (this ensures that the fabric curls). Then I work 3-5 rows of Tunisian Simple Stitch. The fabric should be curling up on itself. I then decide to seam the strip together of not. I might even insert a bit of clothes line and let the fabric wrap around it. Attach it to the bag.

The curling of Tunisian fabric to create a handle

The second is make it a braid crochet bag handle.

For this approach I create a chain that are about 3 inches longer then I would like the handle and work a single crochet in each chain. Make 3 of these single crochet strips. Pin the 3 strips together and braid them together, placing a pin at the finished end. Then attached this handle to the bag.

Braiding 3 single crochet strands together to create a handle

The third is make a chained chain crochet bag handle.

In this process you create a chain three times longer than you would like the handle. I don’t fasten off this chain as I may want to add to it to lengthen the handle as I work. Take a larger hook and then use the newly created chain as a “yarn” and create a chain with it. This creates a heavier rope appearance handle. Attach it to the bag.

Chain a Chain, or Double Chain to create a handle

These three types of handles have helped me finish up projects, then I only have to weave in the ends.

A Continuous Granny Square

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There are days I need to get into a rhythm with my crochet and the continuous granny square helps me do that.

It does not require counting. It does not require joining, it just keeps going in a spiral. This is prefect for creating scrap squares, of entire scrap blankets.

What I like most is that I do not have to think about the motion of my hands. Anytime I reach a corner, I put in a corner, any time I find a side, I work a side. It really is that simple.

Where I found this technique

I learned about this square judging a “Fastest Hook” competition at a CGOA conference. The continuous granny square was worked by all participants, as it really does lend itself to speed.

A Continuous Granny Square

To make it all you have to do is start the beginning of a circle just like you always would. The first round of a granny squares as 4 sides made up of 3dc each, and 4 corners. The last corner is worked differently creating the spiral.

Lets get started

Round 1: Ch 4, 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, [ch 3, 3 dc in same ch] 3 times, ch 6. DO NOT JOIN ROUND

The four side of Round 1
Chain 6 and skip the join, work into the next corner

Round 2: Skip over the next 3 dc, and [(3dc, ch 3, 3dc) in next ch-3 sp (corner made), ch 3] rep 3 times, (3dc, ch 3, 3dc) in ch-6 sp, ch 3. DO NOT JOIN ROUND

Worked with scrap yarn…worked a corner into the ch-6 sp, to finish Round 2.

To work all subsequent rounds, work a corner (3dc, ch 3, 3dc) in a corner, work 3 dc a side in ch-3 sp, and make sure that you ch 3 between all blocks. It is that easy.

For a visual chart reference….

To help ensure that you end with an actual square, I mark the ch-6 sp, as this is the same corner of the square that I would end at to have even sides.

At finishing, I will work the beginning tail up the side of a dc at the ch-6 sp and make a connection between the 2 un-joined sides in Round 1. This ties it all together and makes it look like traditional granny squares.